jbooker82

Yep the only problem is that it leave 2 10in wide strips of dirt and it misses the rest. They are cut down CPI silencers with Trinity Spark Arrestor's. I only cut them down 1.7 inches so the spark arrestors wouldnt hang clear out the back.

Throttle Over Ride System If the slides stick and you realease the thumb throttle it kills the Ignition. You can disabe the sysetm by unpluging the carb top conecotrs. and the control module under the gas tank. Should be a little black box. Have you tried cleaning the air fitler. Maybe it got pluged up by the mud and it is restricting the air flow causing a rich condition. josh

Look up kevin from herr jugs racing for the porting if you want a geat port job and a great price with a quick turn around. He will also be able to do the bore and hone. josh

I would think you have a massive air leak to have a 50 Pilot in the stock carbs. The choak probably doesnt work because the pilot jet is richer than the choak. You pull the choak it leans it out. :biggrin:

That is a TM case saver. The best of the best. :thumbsup:

Yea you can run just regular 10W30 or 10W40 or 20W50 4 stroke oil. You cant just get any oil. It has to be made for atv's/motorcycles that have wet clutches. You can also run Automatic Transmission Fluid Type F. I usually run an oil that is designed for 2 stroke transmissions. Bel Ray Gear Saver, Silkolen sp? Comp Gear, Honda HP 80w.

I just run stock 06 lights with PIAA H6M Bulbs. They work pretty well. I also have a 200 watt stator and have my lights hooked up to 2 toggle switches. I can turn both High and Low beam on at the same time. I use to have 4 trail tech lights. 2 stock location, and 2 on the handle bars. I just got tired of the sand getting behind the glass covers. I did find some good replacement bulbs. I think Snoop might have turn me twards them Sylvania Tru AIM IR bulbs. Man those were biright.

Yea that sounds about right. I port job will make a huge difference. It is the next big gain after pipes. You can get a nice billit plate from chariot performance for a good price. Better than the 90 bucks for the PD, and better quality than the RS cast one. josh

535 Banshee > 535 Zilla

You might try adjusting how many wraps around a the plug wire you have. Also make sure your running BR8ES instead of B8ES. The non resistor B8ES plugs really mess with the vapor.

I hit 10500 rpm with my drag ported 4 mill stroker (CPI Pipes) with a missed shift :biggrin: (Vapor Recorded) Dan from Patriot Racing said that my engine should build Max HP at 9200-9400 rpm. If you go past where max hp is made your slowing down and over reving your engine.

You should just sell it now. Cheap and Banshee dont get along real well. josh

:thumbsup: Yea I guess if your dead set on not splitting the cases. Sell your motor now while it is still worth something.

It is funny you say that. It really isnt bad at all. All the transmission shafts, and crank just lay in the bottom half when you take the top half of the case off.

14/41 with mods in my sig running 20x10x10 9 paddle extreems on a stock length arm.

I like my PIAA H6M Bulbs. I have them in my stock raptor head lights and stock banshee head lights. I got tired of the Trail tech lights getting sand in the lights behind the glass cover.

I put one on my banshee just incase. I guess you can always wait unil you run the carbs dry once then you would know if you need one. Hopefully when you wont burn the top end down. 2 carbs = 2 fuel lines josh

Wich ever one you go with I would make sure it has a steel spline insert. I cant imagine aluminum splines on a steel axle would last long.

Glad you decided to KEEP the hubs.

What did you end up doing for for jetting. Glad to you got it going. It is very frustrating not having some thing running right. josh

Thanks for the pic coments' I didnt try running the Resistor plugs with the vaport hooked up to the stator. I already had it hooked to a 9v and swaping the plugs was the last resort. It cleared the problem up so I am just going to leave it. josh

Well I think I have the problem solved, as recomended by 2strokespirit. I put in some BR8EIX (Resistor and Iridium) plugs I had laying around. It quit reseting on me. I tried the 9 volt first and it would still reset. I left the 9 volt hooked up and unpluged the tach wire. I was still getting an RPM reading with those Non Resistor B8ES's. I put a the BR8EIX's in fired it up with the tach unhooked and there was no RPM reading like there SHOULDNT have been. Hooked the tach wire back up reved it a couple of times and it didnt drop out on me. I also have a more stable rpm reading at Idle as well. Those B8ES's must make a lot of interfearance to show up as a tach reaing with the wire unpluged. You should be albe to run the standard BR8ES too. I just happen to have a couple Iridium plugs laying around. josh

Bigger ports = less velocity so your probably not getting as much air in to the motor. Or the skirt broke and that caused the compression drop. Most people dont opean the windows of the pistons up because it weakens the skirts. There is no way your turning 11300 rpm with T5's

If they are turning out real tight once you break them loose. Work it back and fourth to help loosen them up. josh

wiseco 795 sereis pistons are for long rod cranks. Ethire Stock Stroke or 4 mill stroker. You need to run a spacer plate or cut domes for the stroker part. Cut domes is the way to go. Much better option then adding a plate under the cylinders. Stock Stroke Stock Rod = Regular Pistons Stock Stroke Long Rod = 795 series pistons Stock Rod 4 mill stroker = Regular Pistons, Cut Domes or Spacer Plate Long Rod 4 mill stroker = 795 series Pistons, and Cut Domes or Spacer plate Long rod cranks have a conecting rod that is 5mm longer than stock. So you need a piston that has the wrist pin move up 5mm. That is what the 795 sereis pistons do. Long rod crank doenst really do anything for power. Helps out in the reliability department. It makes the angle of the conecting rod less so there is less side load on the piston skirts.