jbooker82

I would run the v force's. Reed's are not a huge HP adder. They help increase throttle responce. You have 2x as many peddles opeaing half as far. So when the reed opeans and closes it does it faster because the peddles are not opeaning as far.

you need one of these clutches. They make you super fast. Plus you can change the clutch out once a week with out having to drain the coolant. :biggrin:

You might as well run a dumy spark plug wire from it to while your there. Tell em it a 3 cylinder.

I would just use some premix oil. I woudlnt run the risk of getting grease in the berrings. Watch that bearring grease get hot and turn to plastic.

I probably woudl have when with a dunable over ride. That way just incase you back load the transmission it isnt as hard on things.

I coudlnt feel a difference performance wise. It did make my banshee start easier. Wether the coil is that much better or mabey my stock coil was week. It starts easer so it is doing something. I like the fact that you can change plug wires with out cutting and splicing. they just snap on the coil like the older vehicles that use distribuiters. josh

I would go with these guys. Some one that specializes in cranks. http://crankworks.com/index.php/crank-services

I used a pice of angle aluminum to make a mounting bracket for mine. It is mounted in the stock location.

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I just take both bolts out. Use an air compressor to blow air in one with both bolts removed.

Yea I see what your saying. On a BPR8ES the thread length is the same. The tip of the spark plug hangs down in to the combustion chaber a little farter instead of being flush with the top of the combustion chamber. Standard BR8ES BR8ES Spark Plugs LINK Projected tip BPR8ES BPR8ES LINK Standard tip Iridum Plug BR8EIX LINK Projected ip Iridum Plug BPR8EIX LINK $35 Denso Iridium Racing Plug IW01-24 LINK

Why does it have to be an eye bolt? I would just bend a pice of rod like this __/\__ and set it in the concret. Or get a chunck of the hardest chain you can find put a rod through one end and just leave 1 or 2 links of the other end exposed above the finished concreat.

I was just saying it would help you get the spark plug a little closer to the top of the piston.

You can run a Projected tip spark plug. They stick farter down in the combustion chamber. I have run them before. I didnt really notice a performance gain. They also lasted just as long as a regular set of plugs. You would think with them hanging down farter in the cylinder you would be more apt to foul one. BPR8ES is the NGK projected tip. Get one and see what you think. josh

I know it isnt for a banshee but some people might be intrested. Yamaha Raptor 660R I am selling a set of ASR +2 +1. They have 1 ride on them. The a arms are to wide for where I ride. The a arms are fully adjustable. Camber / Caster adjustable. I dont have any pics of them on my raptor. I will post some later. I have some stainless steel brake lines, and anodized blue clamps. I will sell the arms, brake lines, brake line clamps, +2 tie rod tubes for 400 bucks shipped. ASR sells the kit for 500 with stainless brake lines but no clamps. PayPal Preferd. you can also email me at jbooker82 I have 100% positive feedback from other guys that I have delt with here on the HQ. You can look on the good guy's list or in the feedback forum at the top of the page. josh Here is a pic from ASR

Pan heater is a pice of cake. Most of them you just slap on the bottom of the oil pan. They are like a magnet. There are a couple different styles of block heaters. The best ones require you to knock out a freeze plug in the block. (round silver plug) Your truck should already have one installed from the factory. It might not have the cord on it though. Look on the side of the engine block where the freez or frost plugs are. There should be one that has a place for a cord to plug in. Here in nebraska does get -15 to -20 deg some nights, and there are plenty of diesls running around. josh

doubles horse power.

jeff at fast will have the best price on the crank. His web page says 435 for a hot rods long rod 4 mill. You will also need cut stroker domes for your cool head, and 795 series pistons. You will have to talk with your porter to see if he can adjust the port work or if you will have to start over. josh

180 psi, +6 deg of timing on Sunoco 110, Citgo 110, or VP 110

no not really. Just ride it. A pancake berring is highly suggested though. Helps keep the clutch rod and ball from welding. josh

I hope you dont plan on using grease on the pistons and crank berrings. I think that would cause more damage than good. I would just use a little 2 stroke oil. josh

@ $1 per day.

If the other stator didnt fix it I would say your rich. Ripping down the road real quick doenst really get everything warmed up. Trail riding puts more of a load on it and it warms up. Less air because it is warmed up with the same amount of fuel. It warms up and richens up.

Yep me to. I run one on my banshee and works good shifting up and down. About the only thing you will notice is a little stiffer clutch lever.

Post some measurements from the top of the cylinder to the top's of the Transfer ports and Exhaust ports. That will better help identify what type of port job you have. The intake pic's dont really mean much. That isnt where the power is made.