jbooker82

I just painted the insert of my AC Dirt Screen bumper with Krylon Wrinkle paint. It is tough stuff. A wrinkle or hammer finish paint is going to be about the toughest paint your going to be able to find.

Yea I would say they are to big for a stock ported machine. I would get a port job instead of getting rid of the carbs. You kind of need to know the moddle of the carb because PJ's and PWK's do jet a little different. I will assume they are PJ's since they are 34mm. Your really going to need a carb sync tool because you set the Idle by turing the choak knob. I would start out in the is range. main 155 needel CEK middle clip pilot 50 or 48 When I had PJ's before my PWK's the PJ's seemed to like a little richer bottom end. If your going on a trip I would probably take main jet sizes 158-148 and pilot jet sizes 52-45 and a pair of CEK and CEL needles. josh

yes they will work. Usually there is only 2 different sizes. 64-66.5 (small or standard bore) and 66.0-68.0 (big bore domes). The small bore domes are good for all the bores that the stock cylinders have. Some times there is sealing issues when you get to 66.5mm running small bore domes.

I have a pair of over the boot 2007 Troy Lee Rev pants. I also have a set of CPI inframes. I have felt my leg hit the exhaust mulitple times. The troy lee pants must not melt because there isnt a trace of melted pants. Pipes still look bran new.

I got some of that in the tank right now. IPONE Samuri Racing oil. It is pretty expensive stuff. $18 a bottle.

You can make your own $15 dollar performance plug by side gapping it. It is an old school hot rod trick. Here watch the video. http://www.instructables.com/id/Save-Gas-A...Side-Gapping-S/

All that does is cause the exhaust port to opean up a little earlier. Same thing a port job does.

2 strokes dont have valves that form a positave seal to keep the fresh air and fuel in the cylinder. The exhaust port is the first port to opean and the last port to close. So your going to have part of your fresh air and fuel go out the exhaust. This is why the type and shape of your exhaust pipe determines how your banshee runs. The exhaust pipe bounces a pressure wave back twards the engine to help hold in the new fresh air and fuel. So you hand seals better than the pressure wave and that is what caused the psi to go up.

The top pic looks like it is a 6 bolt from the back. The bottom LH is a pic of a 12 bolt

Or you can get them directly from the manufacture for $12 bucks each. http://www.manhattanoil.com/fuel-fragrances.php

A port job is roughly 300 for a dune port. Some builders are more some are cheaper. Pair of PWK 33's will roughly run you 300 from jeff at FAST Stock carbs are 26mm.

Increase in price as price of oil has fallen. Nice.

NYUK has or had a nice new powdercoated black chrome frame for sale.

It is a good oil too.

Yep that is what I would do to if I was on a budget. Once you port for a Stock Stroke crank you will have to get new jugs when you want to switch to a 4 mill. So if you have any doubt that you might want to run a 4 mill build it now and port it later.

Why run an Injector oil that is thined down so it will flow through an Injector pump at low temps. Run Klotz SuperTechniplate 80% Synthetic 20% Benol Caster

The easiest method is to buy a set of PWK's and a boss intake. NO Cutting Required.

Use some vasoline on the orings to help hold them in place. Take the water fitting of the back of the head too. That way your not fighting the radiator hose and trying to keep all the orings in place at the same time. Once you get the head snuged down put the rear water inlet fitting in to the hose then bolt it back on the head.

Jeff's hot rod 4 mill long rod crank is 435. A set of pistons isnt going to run 265. The crank comes with new needle berrings, and the pistons come with rings.

And hopefully your a good welder and able to weld billit aluminum to cast aluminum or you will have a leaking cover.

You dont use different pistons and not moddify the the head or run standard domes. The pistons they are talking about are Wiseco 795 series. They are made for a Long rod crank. You have to run these pistons with BOTH a stock stroke long rod crank or a 4 mill long rod stroker crank. It is because the conecting rod on a long rod crank is 5mm longer. So you need a piston that has the wrist pin moved up 5mm farther other wise the pistons would pop out of the cylinder and hit the head. A regular rod 4 mill stroker wont require 795 pistons. All you would need to do is have the head machined, run stroker domes, or a 2mm spacer plate under the cylinders. Your adding 4mm stroke to the engine. So the piston is going to fall 2mm farther down in to the cylinder and it is going to pop up out of the cylinder 2 mm. A Long Rod 4 mill storker will require both 795 series pistons and a cut head, stroker domes or a spacer plate.

That cover looks like it is supose to scoop or catch oil and funnle it down in to the berring for luberation. I would replace the screws with button head allen bolts.

One of my friends is trying that. Take the stock insert out and knock the aluminum out leaving the screw holes, and just run a small clear pice of lexan. If your going to try it I would just use silicone to seal it up instead of an O ring. Only running 3 bolts and an O ring will warp the lexan and it will eventully leak. That is the same reason why direct drive went from a 6 bolt lexan to a 12 bolt lexan. He is also going to clean up the stock cover and ditch the (big) plastic water pump cover and make a small lexan cover for the water pump (replace the steel impeller cover) josh

I dont think I could sleep at night if I had a vito's crank in my machine. You can get a Hot Rods 4mill crank from jeff at fast for $435

If you already have a shaved stock head the cool head wont gain you much. Unless you plan on upping the compression even more and running race fuel.