jbooker82

4 mill long rod stroker crank, a set of 795 Series pistons and a pair of Cut stroker domes for your cool head. Tell the guy doing the porting that your building a 4 mill stroker so he can adjust his port job for it. Usually the port job cost the same amount for a standard stroke or a 4 mill. I believe jeff at fast has about the best price on the crank. 435 for a hot rods 4 mill long rod crank.

Fast sells some 2.68 ratio primary gears. I dont know anyone who recomends a stock basket over a billit one. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/products.as...ON&offset=0

I think you need to get a new friend. Boost Bottles cause the intake boots to crack. This will lean out your banshee and melt it down. josh

I believe he is talking about the other end. The allen bolt that holds the stud in the Hiem Joint.

Shave the stock head for 50 bucks and use the other 200 for a port job if you already have pipes.

No the allen bolt that holds the tapered stud in to the hiem joint came loose. This allowed the a arm and spindle to seperate.

Yea your forgetting the 4 mill crank. Might as well do it now so you dont ruin a set of stock port cylinders to have them ported for a stock stroke crank.

The only way I would put snowmobiel engine parts in my banshee would be: 3 cylinders sitting on top of billit Matoon Machine Cases. No way would I want a CVT Auto Transmission. Matoon's cases allow you to run a 3 cylinder 2 stroke and keep the banshee's manual 6 speed transmission.

What did you have for jetting with the other carbs? Your jetting sounds close enough to get it to run desent.

I am sure it is a case of "They Really Dont Have to Advertise". Anybody that is building a seriouse banshee and is throwing that kind of money around will know how to get ahold of them.

You could just drive it on the street like I see everyone else doing. I guess atv's must be easly made street legal out there in wyoming. josh

Powder Coating carbs is the dumbest thing you could do. Do you honestly never plan on using carb cleaner on them to keep the powder coat looking good? I would go Keihin PWK's my self. Ethire 33's or 35's depending on what all your planing on doing. josh

Get a pair of Maxxis 4 Snow's. They work good. The are kind of a baloon tire but work sweet in the snow. I can pull wheelies on snow pack with my raptor. josh

I had the same problem with my vapor until I put a set of BR8ES plug in. I was running B8ES plugs and they emit to much RFI and it was causing the vapor to reset. As soon as I switched plugs the problem was solved.

Not much you can do. With lock tight you have to make sure that you clean the threads good with brake clean. If they are oily your just wasting your time. Why not see if you can find some ball joints to replace the hiem joints? I check my asr's on my raptor before I go riding. They havent loosened up yet.

I dont think there is a chemical cleaner that will remove carbon effectivly. The proper way to remove it would runin the finish. You have to heat the crap out of the pipe and tap it to knock the carbon loose. It is called Decoking.

You just need to replace that hose. It probably has a crack in it

I run a nology with hot wires. I couldnt really tell a performance difference. It does start easier. Maybe it is just a old coil vs. new coil. josh

I run a nology with hot wires. I couldnt really tell a performance difference. It does start easier. Maybe it is just a old coil vs. new coil. josh

That is what I was thinking. Cheap Swing arms. CFM poped right in to my head. Glad you got yours.

No I already have a pair. I just think it is a waste of money to bore stock carbs. The only way I would recomend boreing a stock carb is if you were required to run stock carbs by racing regulations.

Like a new pair of Keihin PWK's

If your pads are still good then take a belt sander to them. Just lightly touch the friction material side on a belt sander. Your pads could be glazed on one side. When they get glazed they dont bite as hard. The become kind of slick.

Shearer's have the highest peak hp. CPI's dont do to bad ethire, they just come on a little sooner.

I would run it too. The color is from Heat. Heat from when they heated it up and pressed the crank together or from when it was tig welded if you have a trued and welded crank.