csrmel

where the body?

sorry i dont have any pilots, or needles for that matter.

2 strokes like the banshee are not supercharged, but they are forced induction motors. at the right rpm the exhaust literally FORCES air and fuel (under pressure) up the exhaust port and into the cylinder. air and fuel that would otherwise get wasted because of the overlap between the transfers and the exhaust. if the 2 stroke had no expansion chambers it would lose huge ammounts of power. no the banshee doesnt have forced induction on the intake and transfer ports. but the exhaust (which is also an intake) has forced induction in every sence of the word. think about that for a moment. we all know unburned fuel and air go out the exhaust during each revolution. the expansion chamber than forces a good chunk of that fuel and air back up into the cylinder right before the piston closes the exhaust port. want to see what a banshee is like without forced induction? take off the expansion chambers and put in their place a pipe like a 4 stroke has. all the sudden the 2 stroke is an inefficent low power piece of steaming crap. id be willing to bet 1/3 to 1/2 of the power of a 2 stroke is made because of the expansion chambers.(depending on the setup, of course). or for a more real world example, look at how shitty a 2 stroke runs when one of the expansion chambers gets a dent in it. the dent doesnt restrict flow in an expansion chamber wider than my fist. it fucks up how the pipe operates.

call jeff and ask him. nobosy will know better than him sence hes the one doing the work.

problem with 2 strokes is its very hard to get a motor that gives good bottom mid and top end power. its the nature of the porting and pipes. you cant have everything. you take a top end pipe like a shearer and notice its got nothing down low. then you take a motofast and notice it falls on its face up high, but pulls real good down low. midrange pipe like a toomey t5 is a compramise between the 2, its not got a great top end, or a great bottom end, but it does everyhting "ok". which makes it a good all around pipe. it spreads the power around but a t5 wont have the top end of a shearer or the bottom end of a motofast. same thing goes for porting, carbs, ignition timing, compression ratio, bla bla the list goes on forever. it seems like even REEDS are now made (vforce) with adjustable petals to focus power where you want it. the only real way to get more power everywhere in significant ammounts is to stroke the crank and other displacment mods. youve heard the saying, no replacment for displacment.

check ebay, their about $35. if youre handy with a drill and hand file and dont mind working on it for 30 mins you can mod the stock one to get +4 for free. daojejr, i just did a +4 timing mod the other weekend. with NO other mods done, i noticed a 10 degree reduction in temp after doing it while cruising dirt roads. timing is a fully thing. too retarded and it will run hotter. too advanced and it will run hotter. if the timing is set to the optimum ammount it will run cooler compared to overly retarded or advanced. and i believe the stock timing is overly retarded.

you cant put the right slide in the right carb backwards. or the left slide in the left carb backwards, but you can accidently swap the ledt slide for the right, which would make them backwards because of the pin. do 97's have tors? because if they do and youre is connected it shouldnt let it rev like that. thats one of the beautifull things about tors. helps you save the engine from blowing up from user mistakes.

way rich on the mains. ive never played with t6's and vforce reeds but id bet you need to be around 260-270. needle on the 2nd clip from blunt end. start with 300's and needle in the middle and work youre way down. remember, 400 is way too rich for that engine and that elevation.

call passion and see if they can pull youre info up to see what kind of porting you have. they could also recomend a good ballpark jetting outline.

im bringing a full set of metrics, air compressor,impact wrench, torque wrench, tyre plugs, grinder (for spocket chain) and a bunch of other shit because you never know what you might need. check target for oil. they got castrol 2t atv 2 stroke oil for 97 cents a quart. they also have castrol grand prix road race oil for a couple bucks a quart.i know you probably want some kind of synthetic oil but if you cant find anything locally the castrol works good. its all ive ever used.

561 you should show up this weekend. nobodys going to make fun of you because youve got raptor plastics. thats just immature people on this website talkin shit because they are behind computers. for youre info i am bringing a banshee AND a raptor so if anyone makes fun of youre banshee with raptor plastics or my raptor we can roost them together! but seriously, nobodys going to make fun of you. just show up and i guarantee you will have a good time. i think we are all pretty much layed back kind of people. i wouldnt care if you had raptor plastic, fullbore, or no plastic at all. all that matters is that you show up and have fun. thats what atv's are all about afterall, fun. not whos got the coolest banshee.

i just got off the tele with a nice lady at the seminole ranger district of big scrub. i let her know a group of people with 2 stroke quads are planning on comming up this weekend. she said everything is cool. they have some trails closed off for maintence but inspite of this there are enough trails still open in big scrub that we cannot possibly wee them all between friday and sunday. there are some rules about which trails you can and cannot go on. they have maps and stuff for that though. she recomend each atv have a compass or gps because the place is very huge. they sell compass there but you can get one alot cheaper at walmart or some other store. there doesnt seem to be any real riding rules except "respect" you cant go around roosting everone you see and hauling ass through the campgrounds or else you get a ticket and expulsion. you can basically do whatever you want out on the trails as far as speed, wheelies, whatever. you just cant fly around cutting people off roosting them and such. i think you just have to show some respect to fellow riders. everyone who is going to big scrub this weekend should give them a call so you can get a heads up. put this number in youre cell phones 352 669 3153 thats the big scrub phone number. if you get lost on the way to big scrub or have questions call that number and press 0.

ive got a pair of 280 mains and a pair of 300 mains. anyone can have whichever you perfer for $5. ill stick em in a padded envelope and send them to you for free.

im leaving thursday night at 3am. im going to park on the side of the road by the entrance and sleep in the camper untill the park opens up friday morning. if you guys want to pm me youre cell numbers ill send ya mine incase someone gets lost driving to the park or whatever. im bringing a honda inverter generator, 25 inch tv, ps2 with games, dvd's. i read on the ocala website that riding is not allowed after dark, so i figure there might not be much to do after the sun is down. i dont usually go to bed at 7: 30. if you guys want to bring some dvd's or cd's and lawn chairs youre welcome up come over and watch some movies, assuming the bugs are not too bad. if they are ill probably just stay inside the camper.

it should only ocsilate if youve got electronic fuel injection which uses an o2 sensor.

try stock polots, needle in the middle and 280 mains. the plug chop might look rich because of the airbox, if it does then try some 260 or 270 mains.

you can do some wild stuff to a banshee and have it still look stock. the stock head can be recut to give you any compression ratio and squish you want. stock cylinders can be ported. throw in a 4mm or 10mm crank after you trench the cases. no one will know because those are all internal mods and cant be seen. stock carbs can be bored out as well. keep the stock airbox and mufflers but add some t5's and paint them flat black. i suppose you could resleeve and run blaster pistons for more bore too. if you did all those items, you would have a 100% stock looking motor with the exception of the pipes. one of those custom pipe companys could make you a set of 360 degree pipes which resemble stock pipes but have good preformance. no one would know untill you raced them and beat them. and you would leave them scratching their heads.

the only 1 i know for sure thats out is highlands county. call youre local sheriff office and ask them. they probably know. there are cops on quads now patrolling the roads looking for speeders and stunters.

it wont effect reliability. if anything it would probably be more reliable. i noticed that after advancing the timing on my engine i use less throttle to go the same speed. this means less fuel burned and a cooler running engine.

running street tyres instead of knobbys would go a long way to getting you to youre desired goal. knobbys take a huge ammount of power because of their very high rolling resistance.

advanced timing will give you a bunch more low rpm and midrange power. i just did this mod myself and i am of the opinion that all banshees should of had this done right at the factory.

sence the new bill passed which allows quads on dirt roads, its been a madhouse of quads running around. i be out all day long riding somtimes, just cruising the county looking for fun on the banshee. i think that i go through more gas on the banshee than i do my car.

ive used cheap chain in the past. it works good enough, but i doubt tractor supply chain is oringed. so its alot higher maintance. also doesnt seem to last quite as long as a good oring chain so you need to change it out sooner.

ive heard the absolute max you can get is +5.5 or so.

you clutch plates could just be hanging up. it happens to alot of wet clutch motors. it seems like after sitting overnight the plates stock to the discs.