csrmel

where?

i think the aftermarket cdi will advance the timing a bit. but they are hella expensive for what you get. youre better off grabbing an ajustable stator plate or modding the stock one.

of course they work. blowing on youre rad with youre mouth "works" how well they work is another story. they do so little they might as well not be there. to put it another way, there are plenty of other areas to spend the money that WILL get results..

ill be there sunday morning. for everyone going, look for the silver dodge stratus pulling a red trailer with a blue banshee.

methyman you comming sunday? dave, hell yeah ill ride on the 4th. ask gary for me if you could. i know he doesnt have internet. thanks. by the way nice bike nethyman! but i want a rematch against youre son. he beat me @ c&r, but he lost to dave, but i beat dave. hahah.

pm me youre tele # so i can call ya on sunday morning.

its just a stator plate, like someone else said its under no load, low shock, no stress etc. it doesnt need to be billet, it doesnt even need to be aluminum really. id like to see someone make them out of injection moulded plastic for weight savings. the stock stator plate can be cut up to about 4.5 degrees using a drill press and a dremel. if you want to use bolts that are longer than the original 3 10mm's you can probably get about 7-8 degrees out of a stock plate but this involves slightly more intricate cutting maybe even a milling machine. i have my stock plate cut, i did it myself with my drill press and my dremel. i used a timing light to mearsure before and after timing, and i got a hair over 4 degrees out of it. 90% of the banshees out there only need 4 degrees anyways, so for the price of a flywheel removal tool (9-13 bucks) and a coiuple hours of disassembly-cutting-reassembly you can have youre timing advanced. thats 1 drawback of doing it youreself, you dont have a degree marker on the side of the stock plate to show you how many degrees youre advanced, so just use a timing light and do a before and after.

my neighbour pays a guy to mow his lawn. the lawnmower is a dixie chopper and i notice his tyres look alot like prowedge tyres. i tried to ask him about it but he doesnt speak english.

haha youre thinkin i bought some prowedge 2s and some wheels. i just bought a jersey, gloves, helmet, goggles, mx pants, socks all yamaha blue to match my 06. coz you know i got to match my quad. haha. i found out the local mx track wont let you run if you dont have the full on getup, so i had to buy all those items. now i just need some boots. i forgot to buy those, man boots are fuckin espensive. like REALLy expensive.

ah you kick ass!

youre right by ft myers right? lets do it this sunday. ill be in miami all saturday so if i get up early sunday morning youre 130 miles away. its been too long sence i have meet up with other banshee riders besides drag racing or stupid c&r mudfest.

google mototune

its a bearing guys. it isnt suppose to have alot of load on it from overly tight axle nuts. just snug the axle nuts down, lock one against the other and wrap the nuts in electrical tape in the same direction the axle spins when moving fireward. thats what i did on my 06 when the nuts came loose. it only half half a tank of gas through the brand new machine and it loosen up, i wrap it up and its been tight as dantes old lady.

calling all florida riders. name the place and time and lets go! sooner the better.

they use to advertise a 10% off code all the time. im looking for it. anyone anyone?

sorry i forgot to go :\

if the gaskets are good and the gasket sealing areas are flat you shouldnt even need any type of sealant. on my shee i didnt use any gasket sealer on the clutch cover or the water pump cover. i guess my shit is pretty straight.

i appreciate all the reponses guys, im sure everyone else who races in stock banshee class appreciates this as well. i am going to put into practice what most of you have said as my budget allows. ill start with the most popular idea, tyres, and work to the least popular, reeds. if anyone else has more ideas, be sure to post them up. the stock banshee class is very limited on what can be done without cheating so we need every mod that makes a difference!

that harbour freight folding trailer is bad fucking ass. it folds up for compact storage. it also is a tilt trailer for easy loading and unloading. ive had one for half a year now and its amazing how much you use a trailer once you own one. i haul the banshee as well as a raptor 80 out to the woods to ride, r to the mx track to hit some jumps. the trailer is pretty light weight too, probably 250lbs. when its folded up in its storage mode, it takes up as much room as a 4 foot wide bedroom dresser with a tv on top. i am in the process of adding a boat trailer jack to my harbour freight trailer so that i can manually tilt the rear end down for easy loading and unloading. no more ramps for me!

if you dont have to rejet then you are not getting more airflow. if youre not getting more airflow youre not making more power. thats pretty much how it works. the stock banshee arrestor is located in that turbo fins area dinner was typing about. you gotta bust that shit out with a long prybar and a hammer, or a piece of rebar. it makes it alot louder but you dont have to rejet unless youre stock shit was plugged up with carbon. i have seen that happen before. this is espically true with rich running banshees. and it seems like the whole freaking world likes to jet em pig rich. why run the motor rich? no point. surely dont run the motor lean but run it at the jetting where it makes most power. i saw one banshee that had the turbo fins part of the muffler so plugged up with shit the thing would only idle and run around in first gear. it had maybe as much airflow as a drinking straw. we had to cut the mufflers open and decarbon them and then the bike ran normal. honestly the stock mufflers are not all that restrictive for a non ported motor. they are good enough that i see no difference between them and toomey silencers in a 300 foot drag on my stock motor. maybe on some ported shit or someone with a more precise stopwatch but for me and my stopwatch, theres no difference. cutting off the end plate of the muffler (the part thats held on by 3 screws) does nothing for performance, it only makes the exhaust a bit louder. so basically, unless youre arrestor is plugged up, leave the stock mufflers alone!

ya man! look in my sig for my mods. ive got the compression, +4 timing, no flywheel though. i have rode other banshee with a light flywheel and i didnt like it. no doubt this would help for drag racing, but i just dont like how it effects the trails. i know some people like a light flywheel for trails. im one of those people who would rather have a heavy flywheel for trails, even heavier than stock. but ill just leave the flywheel alone for now

personally i dont think our shees need zerks. our banshees are not high speed porsches. nobody here rides at over 70 for more than a minute, so the bearings are never loaded enough to get super hot. a drawback to a zerk is the fucking mess it creates when you need to remove the axle. i would rather remove the axle every few years and pop the seals on the bearing and clean/regrease them. assemble the carrier bearings and axle with a light coating of antiseize and its good to go for another few years. thats what i do with most bearings, even the bearings on the deck of my lawnmower. just pop em out every few years and pull the seals off, regrease and put back together. i could see putting a zerk on if you guys were into mudding or riding through water for extended periods, but our banshees are not really made for that, and almost no one goes in water or mud, except chase.

im already strutted for the track. heres a list of things that have been mentioned by you guys that i am willing to do and how many people have mentioned it. remove front brakes = 2 aftermarket wheels = 2 aftermarket tyres = 5 different gearing = 2 cpi pipes = 2 shearer pipes = 1 bore carbs = 2 cheat by porting = 1 v force reeds = 1 seems like tyres are the most popular choice. if i get tyres, ill have to get wheels as well. ill also have to re gear for different tyres, which is another popular choice. i know alot of you recomend pro wedge, kenda klaw or gnarly, and other paddle type tyres. what would be the consensus as a good but not overly expensive tyre for bithlo and other florida or georgia tracks? remember im a big guy and i only plan on running in the stock banshee class. i would also need rear wheels. i would like to use oem wheels if possible because i can get them used for $10 each which would save my money. money is the whole reason im running in the stock class and not the outlaw class afterall. hehehe one more question, is there any smooth tyres, like say off a zuma or something which would fit on the front wheels? would some small smooth tyres be much of a beneit or not so worth it compared to stock knobbies? what gearing would complement those tyres best? as it is right now, i can launch decently enough with my oem dunlops in second gear. half the time i do a 6 inch tall 15 foot long wheelie off the line to give you a perspective. will cpi or shearer pipes work better for dragging than my toomey t5's even though my motor is NOT bored or ported? hell ive never even had cylinders off this motor, and its got perfect compression. 149psi in each cylinder. i kind of was under the impression that cpi or shearer were only for ported motors, and would make a non ported motor way too peaky that it would not be very usable except at super high rpm's. also can the front brakes be removed without opening up the hoses and pipes? maybe i could remove the front brakes for dragging but i dont want to do it if i have to open the system and bleed the fuckers each time i get home. if i could remove the front brakes as a complete assembly, i would consider it. whats all involved in getting the carbs bored? i have a machinist buddy that will do them for free but i would need to know the specs of how much to bore them, if the bore is an oval or circular, what angle, etc. i have a feeling that shops who do this already wouldnt exactly divulge the info freely. i guess c&r is not doing drags anymore? thats what i heard, so ill be joining you guys up at bithlo and possibly other tracks. i live in palm beach half the time and sebring the other half, so bithlo is either 150 miles away or 50 miles away. does anyone have a guide on cutting off excess tabs and brackets on the banshee frame? i know i have seen people go as far as to frmove entire pipes as well as unused tabs and frame gussets for drag racing, but i still trail ride this banshee so i wouldnt want to remove anything thats going to make it weak. but i do need to get lighter and quicker. last time i raced freakin methyman's son beat me. he probably weigh 140ls, thats about 120lbs less than i weigh! so i got to do some things to even up the field. i came up and congradulated him too. nice kid.

awalys a synergistic combo