DRI4life

stockers suck on stock arms.. put more leverage on them and they suck more.. sure they will last a couple of months they will last a hundred years but will always perform like shit.. you will see what arms are you getting?

dont know if it was linked already but heres the specs..clicky who knows how good it is until you test it for yourself.. to me, i wouldnt be cought dead on a four poker it wouldnt let me post the pic wtf....

between the reeds and cylinders.. but your probly gonna have to cut some of the boot just behind the carb..

we have those on a stroked cheetah.. trinity calls them a in frame drag pipe.. look the same as toomey to me.. good price have fun.. just ride through the woods wide open and your good to go :thumb: <edit.. thumb didnt work

they look the same as lonestar.. try them

i belive optimum ratio is 32:1 for a stock bike or modded..... not idleing and popping are two different problems. with that much work just done it could be anything and possibly a ruined motor if it wasnt broke in properly.. 40:1 on a break in is pretty lean imo... take it back to the builder you have issues.. and br8es is fine

he already said he removed the TORS... check your harness and look for breaks or melted wires maybe a loose ground.. gets real close by the exhaust.. did you change any parts before that last ride? and when you try a new part like a coil or cdi or stator just return it if it doesnt fix your bike..

i would suggest cleaning the carbs.. but you can try tapping on the bowls lightly with a tool and then riding it around for 10 mins.. you might get lucky and loosen something up in the carbs and it will rev up again.. i do it when my bike is acting up and it has worked before.. if you do open your carbs then take one apart at a time, dont mix any parts and remember where they go back.. and remember clean airfilters are your best friend. i have three k&n filters. i change it out after every 5-6 gallons with a clean one.. great insurance for the motor and no thats not over kill.

or you have a stuck float in one of your carbs.. he already siad he doesnt have a parking brake.. could also be a clogged jet.. hard to say over the internet

yup they are different.. you got some j arm spindles

whats the problem? i thought i clearly pointed out exactly where the brake line goes.. on your bike and mine.. can you see in the pic i posted with the green arrow pinting to the brake line mount? i hope you can cause thats where it goes.. lonestar doesnt make a swinger without the brakeline mount so they are not the dumb ones. let me make it easier.. you see the little thingy welded with the threads on the inside of it.. you take this little black shiny thingy called a brake line clamp.. well, you put it around the brake line and you get a bolt.. place the bolt through the clamp THEN you proceed to screw the bolt into the mount thing on your swingarm.. anymore problems just let me know and i will go into more detail :beer: you need one of these below.... thats it..

well when you get your bike started try the voltage regulator. its right next to the cdi box. mine went out after i installed a bigger stator.. the gap is still the same as a stock stator the coils are just fatter not any longer..

sold to kmenger :beer:

yea you should see some light from your headlights when you kick it IF your headlight switch is on.. the factory coil is known for wearing out. sounds like your problem. if not then just return the new coil

i have raptor shocks on my bike.. no they wont bolt right up.. i made new upper shock mounts on my frame then it worked nice. i also use raptor shocks on my lobo two kit but with standard frame mounts.

ah thats good info.. lol :beer:

maybe your race fenders block airflow to the radiator.. do you have vents still on the side of the tank? those help.. and the impellar doesnt push more water. just more reliable

no need to shop around.. you have your elka in the rear so i would recomend elkas up front aswell.. if you buy your shocks straght from the manufacturer then you wont have to worry about them being setup wrong.... wont get into the whole "what shock company is best" war but when setup correctly they all perform pretty much the same.. go with the elka fronts if you run elka rear imo

the other hose that goes to the front is just a breather. if you have the other connected to the radiator then your ok.. i cut that breather hose short and run it out the back of the motor so coolant doesnt drop on the pipes.. like where the carb vents are routed.

bump $125 shipped..... yes its for a banshee..

use this bung on the swinger to bolt a clamp around the brake line to.. like so........ and get a steel braided line next..

$180 shipped

look at the plastic mounts they line up for a banshee.. but those arms will only fit 250r geometry front end.. the width of the frame doesnt matter.

is a ginger kid.. lol and they have no souls