Snopczynski

SPAMMER!

Stock pistons? Compression should be 125 psi with 22cc domes and that much squish. Is it .050" squish across the entire band? How long is the squish band?

Ohm between the black wire and the motor. If the connection is good there should be less than 2 ohms of continuity. If you have the meter on ac with the bike running, then probe black and the yellow. You should see 10-14 volts. If not, then you either have an open circuit in the yellow, short to ground, or a bad stator.

Ummmmm, are you sure those aren't stock carbs? They even have the choke balance tubes.

The needle/seat should turn off the flow of fuel coming into the carb. If the needle/seat is bad, or the float height is set too high, then you will get fuel overflowing out of the carb vents. Worn out reed petals can also cause flooding issues with starting. If the throttle is sticking it can be slide issues, cable issue, etc......

Keihin carbs take different jets than mikunis. Are they mikuni vm's?

what brand of 28mm carbs?

I burn about 12-14 gallons on a 3 day weekend riding at the Oregon dunes.

You can try moving the needle up and down. screw the air screw in, or you may need a different size needle (unlikely). Is it hesitant and bogging? Or is it gurgling and not gaining rpm? My guess is the low end is too lean still. Make sure you dont have any vac. leaks. Also the float level needs to be set at 11mm from the bowl mating surface to the float seam. You set it just as the needle barely contacts the float arm and shuts off the fuel flow.

The T5 and the fatty are not low-mid pipes. You need to run the FMF Gnarly, pt mids, or pro circuits if you want a low-mid pipe. What other things are you running for your setup?

oh, ok.

Your gonna have to measure the port heights and widths. The bottom of the tranfers look fairly ground out though. You can get some good numbers from moving the exhaust, but the banshees bigest downfall is the restrictive transfer ports. You open those up and you start seeing some great numbers as long as you can keep good port velocity. This is the 250r cylinder. 75cc bigger and the transfers are f%$#ing huge. Thats why those motors make great power with a port job.

What?

It was actually something my Uncle did that I had to fix. He lost a chain and bound it up in the front sprocket area on a 4 mill cub motor that he was boworring until the 7 mill was done being built. It split the case apart and put a crack on the lower case area under the sprocket. Oil spewing out and he is stuck down a pretty steep hole next to box car hill in Coos Bay, OR. I had to go get the tow strap, and everyone at camp. We pulled him up the hole and out. Then went back to camp and I tore all the stuff off the side of the motor. I ended up heating the case with a torch and spreading jb weld over the crack. The JB Weld seeped into the crack and bonded to the aluminum. Let it sit a couple hours and he rode the bike the rest of the summer till the other motor was done. It definitely could have ruined the rest of the trip.

You may not have to buy the $100 program kit. You would have to wire in the ignitech though. Fun times there. Wont be a very clean looking install, and its not just a drop in unit. Dyna comes with launch limiter, rev limiter, and rpm activated switches. Its also adjustable out in the field with the dip switches. Cant think of much more you need. On hand weekday tech support out of California as well. You could probably call Dyna's tech support and they could tell you where the base timing is! :biggrin:

Yeah I run a programmer. I run curve 3 with +4 degrees of timing added to the entire curve.

Hmmm, not sure where that needle fits in on the scale. But, you need to get the mains dialed first, then worry about fine tuning the needle settings. The needle jets in that carb can help set ranges on your mid jetting too.

Curve 3 on the dyna.

I do put the cdi in the front when I do the relocate. I just keep it about 1 foot away from the coil and the radiator sits in between the two components. This is the most recent one I did about 2 months ago on my best friends bike. He runs a dyna cdi too, so that was fun dealing with the dip switch pig tail.

The transfer heights are still stock.

RD350 needles? What size is that? Your running 270 mains! You would usually run 270 mains in a stock motor with a stock carb banshee. Why do you think it needs 270 mains with everything you have done. You have 28mm mikuni carbs on a ported motor with compression, mid-top pipe and a mid-top reed cage setup. Your also riding in a dense air climate. If its too rich you can go leaner. If its too lean, you can always rebuild the motor after it blows up.

30 pilot and 380 mains. What needles are in it?

28mm mikuni round slides (vm)? or 28mm mikuni flatslides ?

Going with the 2 into 1 is sort of going in the opposite direction from all the parts you have installed so far. Everything you have is more of a mid-top setup.

Yeah I was testing on the flats as well and found curve 3 was the best feeling out of all the curves I have made and the ones that come with it. Riding the bike with the stock curve at +4 actually feels alot diferent than curve 3 at +4. I didn't like it with the stock curve at all. The dyna is actually a pretty nice mod.