Snopczynski

Your learning about torque backup, something that I consider 1 of 4 very important things in using a dyno to help build a strong and usable power combination. Good eye. Torque backup comes in handy per say when you slow down and have to shift down like when your climbing a very technical hill or navigate through varying sections of an mx track. You let off the throttle and lose rpm. If you have good torque backup, you can get back on the throttle and build rpm quickly again without losing momentum and being able to continue on. Very important on a low-mid trail or mx motor.

Its not fishy, it just wasn't a major sampling point. The dyno sampling program picks up major changes in torque and hp across the rpm range. It runs an averaging program on itself and decides what rpm points should be displayed as a generalized summary of what happened. The numbers shown and the graphs are actual and not averaged. They were just determined by the program as the best way to compare a specific charts numbers to the next that it may be compared to. I agree with the comment about chart 2 being smotther and not as erratic. Or in power terms, not as peaky.

Well we are going to get a bunch of opinions before the cats out of the bag on what this was being tested. There are going to be some suprising spins to it also.

So you think both charts are comprable but #2 being better because of better hp on top? I dont want to lead anyone on, I wants some good analyzation and commenting on these charts.

Look at the reference card with all the numbers. Thats the hp and torque sampling at different rpms. I would have to believe that your statement could tend to be true.

Now are we going of shear max hp and torque numbers here? Or are we looking at power curve broadness, torque backup numbers, different hp and torque numbers throughout the range? How about curve smoothness and max rpm? Anyone notice they are on different scaling because of the difference in power? Anyone want to know what some of the stuff I just said is?

It is ported. There was one thing changed between the two tests.

So what chart did you like more, and why?

Its lean. Only way to make that needle work is to move the clip further down on the needle. Dont seize it!

Chart 1 Chart 2

When I said different pilot size and needle, I meant put both in, not just one. If you richen the needle clip position it will probably get better. However, I think you need a richer needle. If the bog is hesitant an you cant gain any rpm, then its lean. If its not gaining rpm and its gurgling then its rich. Just by looking at what you had it looked too rich on the pilot and too lean on the needle. Whether your running a stock airbox or not, then there is no way it needs more pilot. We jet Patriot racing dune port 4 mills with pro circuits at a 42 pilot jet. The 4 mill will take a dek or eek needle, but 4 mills tend to be more fuel efficient than stock stroke motors.

Or 42-45. EEK or EEJ needle.

Pilot looks too big, needle looks too lean. Which clip position is it in?

You would see more of a gain from a set of low-mid pipes like pro circuits or fmf gnarleys. Stock reed cages with a low or mid tension reed petal, and dropping dome sizes to increase your compression. Lighten the flywheel for some quicker revs, or even get a dyna cdi and run that bad boy on curve 3 or send it to me and have me program a low end curve in it. Im starting to get sick of explaining this 2 into 1 thing! Dont you guys ever read other posts or do forum searches? The 2 into 1 is a waste of money.

the size has nothing to do with the wattage. You need to know what wattage the bulbs are.

Well none of us are psychic and its your carburetor so your gonna need to take the needle out and tell us what it is. Your also gonna need to know the clip position and the pilot jet size. A 39mm pwk is not meant for a banshee, its not a stock carburetor for a banshee, so no one is going to know what size needle is in it. What elevation are you at? :shoothead:

If you run the stock stator at 100w with lights, it will be dimmer than two 35 watt bulbs.

1. With the size of carb you chose it will probably make less low end power compared to 28mm duals with your mods. 2. Even if you ran a smaller carb like a pwk 35mm setup for the single, you probably wont notice a difference in low end power over a good set of 28mm carbs.

Holy shit are you gonna tell us what jets and needle your running? Sounds to me like its lean as hell.

100 watts.

They like it. I swapped one of the guys kids bike back from a 35mm pwk to twin tm 28mm mikuni flatslides and it definitely is faster now then it was before. He is also running pro circuits now, and we got rid of his ptr mids.

I work on two bikes with single carbs still. They run 36mm and 38mm lectrons.

On the contrary, lectrons make great bottom end and work really well on low-mid power appkications.

You could benefit more from a good set of low-mid twin pipes, dual 28mm carbs, and a coolhead to get more compression for everything you want the bike to do.

I would go with whatever DAJ recommends then.