Snopczynski

If you use a cheap pair of crimpers to crimp a shrink splice and they have a pointed crimp section it will cut the insualtion on the splice and leave the metal butt splice inside exposed. You would ideally want to find crimpers with a rounded crimp section that will not sever the insulation. Soldering also has a lower internal resistance through the connector, and its smaller so everything can be concealed within the harness instead of having giant bumps under the tape. Thats why I usually dont use them. But I currently have two on my bike that are tiny from the Audi Airbag wiring repair kit where I used to work. They are on one of my led add on harness wires and worked really well when I needed to shorten up the harness and install a new led underbody light.

You have to be high as a kite to not notice that at the top of this page is an exact qoute I made from earlier in this topic when this all started and you freaked out. Its states: SNOPCZYNSKI EXACT QOUTE "Dont relocate it, its a pain in the ass. Just cut all the stuff out of the stock harness and tape it back up. I have done it on 3 bikes, and I hate doing it, and cant see a benefit to it." SNOPCZYNSKI EXACT QOUTE "Redoing the harness with waterproof metri pack connectors or the oem stuff from K&L supply is a pain. There is a $99 crimp tool you have to buy and you have to put the seals in the connection end piece to seal the connectors. Theres no way I would do it without doing it right so you can take everything off. All the underbody leds and my dc conversion use factory connectors and can be unhooked easily. Its a pain in the ass if you do it to look like a stock harness and keep everything waterproofed and clean." LOCOGATO EXACT QUOTE "i dont need to prove you wrong. you are wrong by saying that relocating is worthless and causes problems and that it can only be done correctly by using a 100 dollar crimp tool. i didnt put any words in your mouth. you made broad, blanket statements about things." So thats not putting words in my mouth. Because that is CLEARLY not what I said. I dont know if you just dont get it or what. I am in no way saying its not possible to fix a harness, shorten a harness, or work on a harness unless you have the factory crimp tool. What I am saying, is it would be difficult to make it look exactly like stock, retain all the wire colors and keep it weatherproof without the tool. So like a hammer, I hope that gets driven into your head because I have said it at least 3 times now. You however insist I said something else even though its all here in text and is clearly not what I said. There have not been generalized blanket statements, and everything has been described in detail. You wanted issues I could see with doing it, I gave them to you. Everythings been explained, and there has ven been pictures of the stuff I use. This in no way should be a mystery or be able to be misconstrued by anyone with at least the mental capacity of a goldfish. So if you dont understand, I advise you to re-read the entire topic and get a good grip on whats going on, because clearly you dont get it right now.

Absolutely, you can cut the wiring and solder it no problems, and it ends up being shorter. However, if you go to add lets say a stock quick disconnect connector to the coil wires from the harness. Then you will need to install a wiring end on at least the orange coil wire if you want to keep a continous color. It would be very difficult to do with standard crimpers. The wiring ends have at least 1-3 crimp tangs, plus a hoop that reatains the connector seal like the pic posted earlier. If you use the tool, you just put the connector end in the crimpers, put the seal on the wire and insert it in to the connectors and squeeze. Then you just slide the connector end on the wire into the factory quyick disconnect and your done. When you do stuff like cut the tors off, you can keep the wiring connectors and leave some of the wire on the ends. You can then go through and solder the wire and put heat shrink onto the other wires if your adding things to your harness. The only downfall is the wiring will be a different color at the end than the wire your soldering to in most cases.

When I say problems, what I mean is this. When someone pays you to do something for them, they want the absolute best quality work, and they want to not have any problems with what you did. If I make a harness for someone it needs to hold up to the rigors of what its going to be put through from being on the bike. Stainless ring terminals keep the terminal from corroding, and causing runability issues. Keeping the wire colors the same makes it so the customer can use a factory wiring diagram to understand the harness if he should need to. I dont cut corners on customers bikes, and I definitely wont cut any corners on my own stuff. In the long run it never pays off when something fails and leaves you stranded, or spending you entire trip trying to make something run or perform well. Clearance problems when adding components like steering stabilizers. No easy way to unbolt or remove the electrical components without taking off the front bumper, steering stabilizer, pipes, radiator or plastics depending on where you put the stuff. Hard to disconnect the items to get an electrical tester in there to check things. RFI problems from having the coil to close to the cdi. Electrical components being subjected to harsh conditions because they are now located lower down on the front of the bike. Sand packed into the components, water intrusion from puddles. Mud getting caked and packed into the electrical components and connectors. If you add different color wires to the system, and you dont remember what color wire does what, then that obviously creates a problem. The time it takes to fabricate, weld in, and thread brackets. You also have to come up with a way to refinish the frame either completely or in that area if you weld on it. For me the negatives out weigh the positives of the modification. I am not "Reaching", I can easily see by your pic you changed some things. You shortened and added what looks like a quick disconnect for the coil wires. It appears you changed the color on the coil wires though (probably so you could use already crimped ends and solder the base wire to them. Wouldn't this qualify as "adding" something? If you would have kept the orange and black for the coil wires, you would have had to crimp new ends on at least the orange wire. I think theres a little reaching going on here by you trying to scramble and come up with ways to somehow prove me wrong even though I voiced an opinion and there is no right or wrong. You just disagreed with it, then put words in my mouth, then got mad because you didn't like the words you put in my mouth. Nobody here is right or wrong for wanting to do this mod or not. All I did was state my opinion of what I thought about doing the modification, how I do it, and why I would not do it certain ways. I am entitled to think these things. Never once did I say "its my way or the highway".

Xbox 360 has a 3 year warranty for the ring of death. Its a bad video card.

I looked at it, but you didn't add anything to it and keep a constant or same color for the system the wire runs. I use stock connectors but added stuff to the system. Which obviously requires just shortening the stuff in the system and resoldering the wire. It did not require adding new connectors and installing ends on the wire for those connectors. Even my aftermarket headlights use a quick disconnect connector instead of bullet connectors now. It still comes down to the problems imposed by relocating everything, you gain more issues than benefits. I do see two problems with what you did that I would have done different. 1. I would have cut off that stock ground ring terminal and put on a stainless steel one in its place to keep it from corroding any further. Then I would have soldered it. 2. I also buy and install all the factory colored wiring and would not have added in any other colors or mismatched colors to different components. If you did this, then I know you would have had to recrimp new ends on the haness you made to make the wire the same color all the way through the harness. I also add a ground to the stator plate and then run it up the stator harness and tie it into the ground wiring on the bike. If your motor is not grounded through the mounts well, then this helps it stay grounded to the frame. This can sometimes be a problem on bikes with powdercoated or painted frames.

Is your riding style ever going to change, or are there any other crucial things you do that the bike needs to be able to do when your riding? Any other performance parts on it, or plans for the future yet?

Now if you want to put my statements in the right context, then this is what they were before you snipped them and made them say what you wanted. SNOPCZYNSKI EXACT QOUTE "Dont relocate it, its a pain in the ass. Just cut all the stuff out of the stock harness and tape it back up. I have done it on 3 bikes, and I hate doing it, and cant see a benefit to it." ++++++++This is obviously my opinion. I dont see a benefit to it that outweighs the effort it takes compared to what you gain from it. In my opinion there are more issues caused by it than there are benefits. SNOPCZYNSKI EXACT QOUTE "Redoing the harness with waterproof metri pack connectors or the oem stuff from K&L supply is a pain. There is a $99 crimp tool you have to buy and you have to put the seals in the connection end piece to seal the connectors. Theres no way I would do it without doing it right so you can take everything off. All the underbody leds and my dc conversion use factory connectors and can be unhooked easily. Its a pain in the ass if you do it to look like a stock harness and keep everything waterproofed and clean." +++++++++ Obviously a statement said about it being difficult to do it a fashion where everything looks stock, can be easily disconnected, remains waterproof and corrosion free. It simply states that its hard to use the stock connectors with the seals on them and crimp them right without the special tool. Its not saying you cant do it without the $99 crimp tool. Its also not saying it cant be done period. It is saying that if you install the connector pictured below on a wire end with a standard crimper so your setup still looks stock, then it would be hard to do. It also says that there is no way I would do it, without doing it right, so I could easily remove components. Another thing, the factory yamaha connectors and seals are identical to the style of connector ends and seals in automotive applications. So gm's and the yamaha banshee is apples to oranges. Wire ends and wire ends are apples to apples. I haven't spouted off at the mouth or been a retard. As far as helping people, I dont have to message people on here to offer help, they already send me messages everyday. I average about 6-10 help messages a day from members with problems. I dont appreciate someone putting words in my mouth and changing my statements, then criticizing me for it using profanity to measure how unhappy they are about it.

Some people didn't vote and hit the view results button. That makes you forfeit your right to vote so you cant see what everyone else put and cheat.

I don't see the point in what your doing. Its like your making fun of me for doing something right and promoting shitty work for bagging on my nice tools. I was a gm technician for a living, I own factory gm tools. You cannot fix GM factory wiring without the gm factory crimp tool. Are you always this much of an amazing douche and I have just never noticed it until now? My god, 16,000 posts and someone would think by reading what you say that your eating glue and trying to show girls your wee wee on the playground everyday. Act like a senior member, set an example, and be someone that people can respect and go to for good info on here. Dont bag on me because you dont believe in nice crimpers and using torque wrenches.

Ok, good. Lets get some more, I want a lot of poll votes like 30 shown results before I am gonna disclose the runs.

On your motor they would make a difference and give it a little more midrange power at the sacrifice of a very small amount of topend. They dont do much on stock bore and stock stroke motors.

Yup, we did. Each one of those setus was probably ran about 10 times and jetted.

On Daves pc still. Why?

I cant wait till you get off your winter break and go back to pre-school.

8mm= 20-23 ft lbs. I usually do them at 22 ft lbs.

I had something I was gonna say, but I decided that it was definitely gonna fall under the "Making it personal" category.

When its over I will explain how the bike runs compared to how you see things on the chart. So dyno graph readings compared to seat of the pants readings.

1. I run the overflow onto my pipes so I know when the bike gets hot. 2. If you leave all the vent hoses on the "T" and running in the stock locations then you dont have to plug the hose when you tip the bike up on end. 3. I do run a tailight, because its required by law to have one at night where we ride. 4. Shrink tube and electrical tape will not give you quick disconnects and keep sand and water out. 5. The GM Weather pack connector tool is $99, and it does an awesome job of putting special wire ends on for weather pack connectors and the stock connectors. 6. I have a banshee, and those underbody leds keep people from running into it when its sitting in the middle of the dunes at night while I am laying pipe to my wife. Obviously you haven't seen all the threads about how I put a battery in my bike and run a dc conversion. Everything looks clean and stock on the harness too. I am also not getting rid of my coolant catch tank, its cheap insurance for when the bike gets hot. It doesn't look any different under the back if you run plastics, a tailight, or a license plate and leave the stuff where it goes stock. Not to mention the fact that you will still have the 4 hours of your life to do something worth while instead of relocating electrical hardware and making a harness. Im not the one making it personal, for some reason that I dont understand, you are!

I have done 1 for my best friend and 1 for my cosuin as well. After they both ran them and have had to deal with them, we are leaving all the stuff were it is supposed to go on the drag bike. Its just a general pain. If you have a steering dampner, then you have to watch were you put the cdi up front. If you dont have one and go to add one later after you put the cdi in front, then the dampner may not fit. If you ride through a dune and the front gets gunked up with sand, then its a bitch to clean it all out if you need to do something with any of the components. Its hard to unbolt the components or disconnect the connectors when they are all crammed up under the front plastics too.

Are you still using a stock kill switch.

If you want to make this personal I can. Saying things like "just because you and your cousins can't rewire an already simple harness" is obviously going to piss me off. The bikes I did ran the first time I went to start them. I am an ASE and factory Audi, GM Certified auto Technician with an associates degree in auto technology. I had to go to a 3 week class on 12v systems in college and 5 days of hands on training with audi harness repairs. I can even fix the wiring on an airbag system. So lets try to act like adults, and not act like a bunch of 5 year old assholes who are only interested in trying to get a rise out of someone to impress people on a forum about atv's. The hoses I referred to are the radiator overflow hose, the case vent hoses, and your still gonna have a tailight wire to deal with. Redoing the harness with waterproof metri pack connectors or the oem stuff from K&L supply is a pain. There is a $99 crimp tool you have to buy and you have to put the seals in the connection end piece to seal the connectors. Theres no way I would do it without doing it right so you can take everything off. All the underbody leds and my dc conversion use factory connectors and can be unhooked easily. Its a pain in the ass if you do it to look like a stock harness and keep everything waterproofed and clean. I also stated earlier in this post that cleaning up the harness is a good idea as well. Moving components around is a pain in the ass and more work than its worth.

I dont know where you have been, but I personally haven't ran a single carb setup in over a year on my own bike. Nor have I recommend them to anyone on here for over a year. You have hoses and cables running everywhere, I say just run the harness with all the stuff and zip tie it to it for securing it. All the stuff is there anyway. There are ways to secure it to the frame that look cool, and that makes it easier to deal with in the long run. My best friend and my cosuin both swore to god after we relocated their stuff that they would never do it again. We aren't either, I got a drag frame in my garage on my toolbox that still has the cdi mount back on the subframe cause we aint dealing with that shit.

thats not a factory part. If you push it in and it does not click, then its more than likely a killswitch.