Snopczynski

Dude, that the 2010 banshee thats going to be released in the April dirt wheels........YES!................... :biggrin:

Dyno Dave has a set of brand new chrome DG pipes still in the bags in his shop. Yesterday I was trying to talk him into putting them on a motor we are going to dyno in a few months. He said he thinks they would be best suited for a large bore stock stroke motor, like a cub with a stock stroke. I was mystified, but I value his opinions most of the time.

The trannies in our bikes get a lot of abuse from the idiot holes and we put a lot of hours on them every weekend we go. I change it out every time, run a good clutch, and have a cda from cascade installed. So in turn, I have had zero transmission problems over the last 3 years. I wrenched on cars for about 8.5 years. Audi had magnets in the transmisiion drain pans, so did saab. Out of every pan I pulled off, I never found anything more than shavings on the magnets while doing a routine maintenance. When we had catastrophic tranny failures I usually found pieces of stuff stuck to the magnets. My personal feeling on it is, if its big enough to worry about it when seeing it on a magnet. Its always already caused a failure, or created a symptom that warrantied the cover to come off or the cases to be split. I just dont see running a magnetic drain plug as a must on my bikes. I pay a little more attention to whats going on with maintenance on my bikes than the average joe, and what the bikes doing when I am riding it. So, I have a tendency to catch things that most people dont even notice. For instance, my cousin rides up to me. I noticed that it looked like his chain was skipping. I look at his side case cover from about 5 feet away and see sand stuck to it around the dipstick hole. I walk over, the dipstick is gone. We tow it back, I tell him to pull the side cover because he needs to flush it out. He has it off and I lean over the seat to watch. He is ready to put the cover back on after flushing some very suspicious looking fine and small material from the center of the case. I lean over the seat to watch and see about 2" of an aluminum dipstick shaft behind the clutch basket that he never saw. He ended up parking the bike after I figured out that was his 2nd and 3rd gear skipping because the bike ate the aluminum dipstick. Maybe I am being rash about the magnetic drainplug? However, I just don't think its a great idea because most of them have a magnet bonded into the plug bolt with some sort of adhesive. Granted if its metal, the magnet will help stick to it, but it just makes me nervous. Especially since I have seen one do more harm than good now.

Both.

the dynoport setup.

Quite the opposite. The stock pipes are all top end with a very narrow power window.

22cc domes should be 130 psi compression, which you can run with 89 octane.

He usually spends the most amount of money he can on anything he buys, so I doubt it was a cheap drain plug. I change my oil after every weekend, and I run a good oil, so I don't worry about stuff floating around in there and harming anything. On another note, last time we were out riding something else happened. My cousins aluminum drain plug came apart and got sucked into the motor. Now his 2nd and 3rd gear skip. The magnetic drain plug would not have saved him on that one either.

RZ350.

Pro circuits.

Cascade Innovations heavy duty clutch.

Have you ever changed out the base gaskets on the cylinders or anything?

Well, he has had two different ones and both have been made the same. Aluminum bolt, with magnet stuck in the center. First one stripped out because it was made of aluminum. The secone one had the magnet fall out now. Those fiber washers they send with the drainplug are bullshit too.

Pulled out my best friends 4 mill after it locked up on the flats doing jetting runs in november. The magnet came out of one of those wiz bang drain plugs and grenaded his tranny. So if your running one, put the stocker back in while you still have time.

Not suprising. You need to either sell those, or re-sleeve em and have the port work re-done. If it even can be.

I dont want to type it out, so you tell us what you did and see if its close.

NEXT-----Coolhead.

What tool are you using to normally get the retainer out?

smaller carbs, compression, pipes, and timing will help out.

The best advise I can give if your going to run them is: Have the rings and the pistons coated, that will help a little, but not much.

how wide is it (mm)?

You dont have to cast them low, you just have to have lower ports in the sleeves, and a builder can clean em up so they work. They could already do it, they just need to re-do the sleeves.

The exhaust width can be 70% of the bore size in mm. You can stretch it up to 75%, but thats pushing it.

Did he charge you for a trail port? Are the cylinders already being shipped to you? Different pipes, more compression, smaller carbs, and a low or mid tension reed will help. The vf3 is a high flow cage, and good for a cub motor if your gonna dune it or drag race it. However, that high exhaust port is going to make the power window narrow and make trail riding miserable. To make it an honest trail port, they have to be resleeved and have the exhaust and transfer ports cut lower. The one motor dave did with pc's and mikuni tm 28's made 94 hp, and redlined pretty low. The other one with the pt mids and the 36mm lectron single made 87 hp and redlined pretty low as well.

I assume that was supposed to say 250w. You know that stator is a dual output stator right?