Snopczynski

On a 2 into 1 its the needles you have to buy that cost alot. you only need jet sizes 180-205. Needles most of he time need to be dek, eek, eej, and sometimes a weird size like dgk. Those setups run real weird, main jets dont make as much difference as the needles make.

135 psi on a stock motor is good still. They dont make a 34mm pwk carburetor. If its a 34mm carb, its a pj.

You can also link these lights together with the link that has the red circle around it. So you can mount 2 lights in the stock location, off of one center mount, on one of the lights. When I put them in the stock location, I dont us the steel "U" shaped bracket, just the black center bracket and some nylon spacers I machine down to make the light fit tight in the mount.

Yes, it draws slightly less than 30 watts for all 3. I do run a stock stator with my 10 amp hour battery. You could easily run 7 of these off a stock stator and still charge the battery. 7 of them would only draw about 68 watts.

Yeah, once I get em on the sand and fine tune the angle they ought to work pretty damn good.

Well I got some pics. This was on a mostly dark road with a hillside and a house about 150 yards away. No flash. I didn't even adjust the lights, and they did a damn good job. This one was out of the garage in the driveway pointed at the neighbors house.

I love black, no shiny!

I see him everyday at the safeway gas station in Enumclaw when I stop to get my morning drink. I noticed all his craigslist ads too.

I will see if I can.

I used a dremel to cut it out, then recovered it with 2 part epoxy. It wasn't very fun though.

I dont have any ideas. There is no where to bolt anything in up there. I chose under the back seat because there are bolt in holes, and it basically would only make the bike think there was a slightly heavier rider on it. Best I can figure is you can drill holes in the frame, and tap them, then mount a tray to it. That reg/rec has to be grounded to regulate properly and dissipate heat.

I am speechless.

If I remember right, it has nothing to do with the tors. I believe its its own seperate wire that runs back to the cdi.

Hardest part on the stock stator is getting the ground wire out of the epoxy and not breaking it.

I work for a safe company in Enumclaw. My customers are from my Banshee building business I do out of my garage on the side. He took money for parts and gave one customer some less than kosher carbs and never made it right. The other one, he bought some parts from and never gave him the rest of the money for the parts.

Original fmf gold series, or Fatty, Gnarley, sst's, etc.......

Watch out, thats the rear shock spring! :biggrin: How did you manage to have that left over?

Thanks.

I tried it once, It felt gay.

Info here. Linky Linky 2

Yup, I have a thread on here.

I use snowmobile reg/rec and they are supposed to be low loss units. I also use a 10ah battery. All small engines create ac current, but there are a few different types of stators. Most 4 strokes with batteries use a 3 phase stator. They make more juice than most two stroke stators. I do run a stock stator and timing plate in my bike. Floating the ground on the stock stator is a biotch.

You just measure from the top of the exhaust port to the cylinder deck.

Wow, well I only know about 4 or 5 Ryan's in Enumclaw. I know who Chris at C&M is, not a big fan of him though. He is shady, and he is known for screwing people out of money. I have a few customers that he has screwed over.

If you use the same battery and regulator I use it would cost around $130.00, you could probably pull it off for less than $100.00 though. You can run these lights with just the dc conversion and no battery. Like youy said, you wouldn't be able to leave them on without a battery. I wont give out prices on the thread for the lights, because I pay alot less than other distributor do for them.