Snopczynski

Sounds like the float level is set wrong or the float bracket is broken.

I dont really know. I know a standard reed spacer on a stroker or a larger bore bike will make some more mid hp, but there has to be a point when it gets too long I would assume.

Yeah its funny what will happen. I setup my best friends 4 mill with 13/45 gearing, 22x11x8 ultra lites and he has 2 into 1 intake with ptr mids. He weighs 260, 6'6" tall and has a 2" stretched up frame on his bike for his long legs. Then my cousin runs same tire, same intake with a lectron, pro circuits, different port work with a 4 mill and runs 13/43 gearing. He weighs 180 lbs, 6'4" tall and has a standard frame. My cousin radar gunned in at 80mph, and my friend radar gunned at 76mph. So my cousin puffed his chest out and thought he was the big man on campus with the highest mph quad. So I lined them up on a 100 yard drag race and jumped on my best friends quad to be the pilot. I beat my cousin on the 76mph 4 mill and stomped him by about 1.5-2 bike lengths. So speed doesn't mean shit when it comes to racing or riding hills. Its about the rider and the machine.

You have a twin carb needle in your single carb (too lean), and your main jet is too small (lean). You need around a eej needle and about a 195 main jet. I would put pro circuits on that thing.

Check it! Snopczynski_Racing auction Link.

Dont be that guy. How old are you?

Ok, so here is my point. On a banshee engine a single carb makes more low end hp and torque. A twin carb setup makes more mid-top hp and torque. I know how well sleds engines are designed, the bombardier 580 twin in a sled makes 110 hp stock. Thing is, we already dyno proved that at least on my engine the single carb works better down low than twins. The dual carbs work better on the upper end. So, with your original statement, like I said, most sled motors are designed to pull high rpm because thats how they are clutched. Thats why they run twin carbs.

search google.

elevation? My motor at 456ft elevation on the dyno with 28mm tm's bored to 30mm ran best with 410 main jets in it.

I dont know how to make you understand this. Sleds shift up or build speed when under rpm. If clutched properly, the idea behind riding a properly clutched sled is to lay on the throttle, it maintains peak rpm in the highest hp area of the motor the whole time and builds speed from this rpm range. Obviously you have to let off on the sled to manuever in trails or try and make corners, thats what the powervalves and other features of those motors are for. Sleds do alot of things that have been deemed stupid for a banshee on this forum though. 2 into 1 pipe for example, comes factory and aftermarket on alot of sleds. I put in my time as a certified tech at a seadoo/skidoo dealer back in the 90's. First things that usually went when they came in for performance parts was a clutch kit, 2" track, pipes, jet kits, and the silencer boxes. A good example of a pretty badly tuned factory cvt is the rhino. It maintains about 5600 rpm as it runs up through the clutch, then it wings out to almost 8k rpm after it gets through the sheave and it uses the remaining engine rpm from 5600-8000 rpm to build speed.

UPP or K&L supply.

I know its not pin it and forget about it. Clutching on a sled is setup to maintain peak rpm and cycle up in speed if its is clutched right. Anything with a cvt is setup to do this. Another huge thing is that some sleds had cv carburetors which use a diaphragm with vacuum to open the slide instead of a direct throttle cable connection. So this maintains peak absolute velocity in the intake tract. Comparing a sled to a banshee is not a very good analogy.

Probably wont agree at all.

use the jetting and needle mentioned in the thread that DAJ posted a link to.

Your supposed to set the float level different with the 2 into 1 intake cause it sits at a different angle then when used with regular intakes. Like I said, there should not be anything different with your setup that made it so that carb would not work. We run a 38mm carb on a 460cc 7mill cheetah motor. It doesn't run the bowl dry. From what your decribing, sounds like something was probably broken or missing in the carb if it was smoking badly and "blowing" smoke.

you dont run the cascade square reed stuffers with a 2 into 1 intake. You actually have to match port the 2 into 1 intake to the reed cage at the top and bottom. Then take the plastic stuffers out of the vforce cages and match port them side to side. When you look in the intake, you can see this has to be done. Nothing matches up at all.

Yeah, most of the time they run on the needle, the wrong one can make the mid-top power really bland and hesitant.

I have put a sensor in a head for a dummy light that was rated at 210 degrees. Those Mr. Gasket caps are just as good. They read the temp at the top of the radiator, and the bleed hole from the head dumps out up there. so they are within a couple of degrees.

More torque! The dunes in the NW are not wide open hills like in CA. We have closed off stuff, and idiot holes. Its easier to jet too.

He will port just cylinders. email him. He will get back to you. When you email him, send him your phone number and tell him I sent you. Tell him you want him to port the cylinders, he should reply back within a few days.

The 4 mill we run has a 200 main jet, eej needle, and 45 pilot jet in it. That main jet was dyno verified as the best size for peak hp.

spacers aren't needed on your bike if its still a small bore or a stock stroke.

Patriot Racing

I will say it again, exhaust port duration will affect compression.

Fuel is gonna depend on your compression. We need to know if your ported, and your elevation. If your per say stock porting at sea level, then your going to need AT Least 50/50 110-and-93 octane fuel.