Snopczynski

Yeah we will see, I am gonna put it on the dyno tuesday morning and see if I cant get it to stop doing it. I am working on floating a stock stator today to put in there. Did yours do it right away, or did it gradually start doing it? Mine did it after about 4 hours of riding.

yup they were killer pipes.

yeah I went to the shop and grabbed my other brand new one and it ohmed out to 10.5. So it checks ok.

set it at the lowest ohm setting or on auto. Touch your leads together and they should read damn near zero. Then touch one lead to the red and one lead to the green down in the white connector. Make sure the ohm meter leads are not touching anything else or each other. If you cant figure it out let me know and I will shoot a vid of it.

The voltage regulator grounds through its hosuing. So it has to be bolted to the frame and have the ground wire bolted to one of the mount bolts for it.

Alright, my bike deleoped a high rpm miss last time out. It has a RS 200w stator on it. I need someone to ohm test their charge coil. Here is what you do. 1. Unplug the white connector at the stator. 2. Get out your ohm meter and hook 1 lead to the red wire, and the other lead to the green wire. These are solid color wires. Report back your ohm reading to me. Mine is 10.0 ohms, all 3 of my stock stators are 17.5 ohms. Spec is somewhere between 14 and 20 ohms.

I dont know.

no, the clown hasn't even shipped them yet.

buy castor 927 in 16 oz bottles and dump the whole thing into a 5 gallon can. Then put gas in it, your done.

its just a low tension reed. they dont make low-mids. its either low, mid, or high. Don't worry about the intake right now, you'll be fine. As for leaving them alone, put the reed on with the stops and dont worry about anything else.

You have to run the reed stops with carbon techs. You can bend the stops a little, but I would leave them alone as long as you put the ones on you wanted to run. low-mid-high. The port work you have to do is taking the step in the top of the intake and turning into a ramp. Leave them alone, they will make more power than anything else unless your building a drag bike.

you must run the reed stops with the carbon techs. Port work is where you fix intake flaws from reedcages.

he is fucking with him.

did you buy the 2 into 1 setup yet?

Im putting them on the 4mill. Here I will show you a brand new set for a little more money. They still have to be setup with all the right stuff though. they are a little more than half way down. Carb link

87-94 I think. I dont exactly remember what the 95 plug looks like though.

187 degree duration is the port basically being lifted to the point were the tunnel matches the port. It is higher than stock which is 30mm. Its roughly around 28-28.25mm. 26.75mm is around 195 degrees. Basically 187 degree duration is tuned to the area of about 9k rpm for maximum power. My pipes sign off at about 8700 rpm, so its about perfect. My bike will also run with 4 mills and other decent built weekend warriors on the drag strip, but I can turn around and ride a hole or a sandy trail with it.

the one I just did on my bike turned out pretty good also. Looks good.

I just sold one and I am getting ready to sell another one along with some match ported vf3's.

this isn't rocket science. If you dont have the right stator on the new motor, then you swap the stator onto it from the old motor. Now if you did that, why would you need a new cdi plug?

pro circuits.

why didn't you just swap over the 97 stator?

hmmmm, well all three sets that I have feature the lovely o-ring flanges.

Yeah, its about 195 degree duration. I dont really see anything recreational about it. The duration on the exhaust is about where a drag bike would be setup. I run 187 degrees exhaust duration on my dune port 350.

yeah its a stock 6 bolt hub in pretty damn good shape. I will pm you.