Snopczynski

Fuck Norton, I think they merged with Trinity Racing about 3 years ago.

Here is proof you can Push it real good! Click the push it link!

Its worth doing it if you have it apart and are putting a crank in. In my eyes if you dont think you will neglect it, then dont tear it apart just to do it. at 50 psi the motor wont run, so your safe with not having the crank welded. :biggrin: Its funny you should mention that though, cause the motor I mentioned that just twisted the crank ran 205 compression for a summer about 2 years ago before he had his domes recut. I have 3 years on my motor, still never had the crank come apart.

you should be putting bigger mains in it till it gets slower, then backing them off so you know you have the right size first.

Its not a compression thing either. The thing thats hard on them and causes them to come out of phase is dropping the clutch at high rpm. Your basically dropping one huge dead load (trans) on the motor thats spinning up in excess of 8k rpm. I run 185 psi compression on a stock crank thats not welded. My cousin runs 180 psi compression on a 4mill motor thats got a really low exhaust port (172 exh. duration). He basically built it to climb holes and for torque. He is known for stopping in the middle of trails and dropping the hammer on someone behind him also. He just lost a left side crank bearing inner ball retainer, and we found his WELDED crank was twisted and out of phase. So its all about how you use it, not about whats there.

no, they have to be isolated switches and all.

what does ti do with the needle at full rich?

I do dc conversions, and its really not all that hard. Hardest part for me is making a battery bracket.

I have 2, plus I have a good RS 200w unit.

I dont change my jets when the humidity changes. But if you bolt a set of shearer pipes on to a set of non ported stock jugs, good luck trying to figure out if you have a low-mid bog thats rich/lean. Or it may be the way the pipes act. Thats what happens when you bolt on parts that dont match. I never thought topend meant big dollars. topend to me in this conversation was about the rpm range the motor would be working in. 1/2-3/4 throttle dune cruisin is not going to be a set of shearer pipes. Those are gonna be wide open, keepin the rpm high all the time. I dont know if your reading this and it just doesn't make sense to you or what, but you want to pretty much put drag race parts on a play bike. You can't play ride a drag bike. Not to mention its not going to be too fast or easy to ride because you have no porting. Your bolting on a topend pipe, the pipes working rpm range is like 8,000-10,500 rpm if I remember correctly. Your stock exhaust duration is about 179, which puts your motors peak efficient working rpm around 8,000-8,500 rpm. For this you need like pt mids, pro circuits, or a set of fmf bottom end pipes. That would be because their peak rpm working range is around 8,500-9,500 rpm. Those pipes make excellent dune port pipes, and make a ton of midrange power. Pick a direction and go that direction with your parts. If you buy shearers, then you need to forget about carbs and have the portwork and headwork to go along with them. Otherwise your gonna own the slowest drag bike on the hill, and not have any fun play riding it.

A lost a drag race by 1/2 bike length to a trinity stage IV 420cc 4mill stroker with stage 4 pipes and 38mm pwk carbs at Sandlake back in April. It was about impressive as a wet turd on a metal slide. The guy who had the motor built was such an idiot, that he sent in everything to them, they sent it back and he ran everything they suggested. So too big of carbs, shitty porting, shitty pipes, no timing advance, even had a stock timing plate on it. I was beside myself with stupidity when the guy aprroached me about helping him make it run better and I had to tell him to buy new parts to do it.

You can try throwing parts on it all you want, and say that you dont agree with my opinions as well. Fact of the matter is I have a ported 350 that that hangs with the three 4 mills that I ride with in a drag race, on the sandy trails, and out in the wide open sand. Yeah gearing, tires, and chassis setup means alot too, and I know a ton about all that stuff also. I think my best friend summed it up in a nutshell the other day in the truck. He said "Well Jeff, until people spend the time on the dyno, the time to listen to you, and the time tuning their bikes, I guess you will always be one step ahead of them". He owns another 4mill that I tune, and no one else in our group, including myself can come close to competing with that bike in any aspect out on the sand. So, as I once again will say, you need to decide what you want to do, then put the proper parts together in the proper combination to do it. Otherwise it will not run as well as it could, you can end up wasting alot of money re-configuring things, and you can end up putting shitty components on (like a set of trinity cylinders). So, you said you wanted to know what I would say, and I am still waiting for you to figure out what you want to do. There are people who can recommend parts on here based on whats popular, theres people who can recommend parts from personal experience for one setup, and then there are people on here that actually test things on different setups with a dyno, and by riding the bike to see what they effect. Alot of times a part will look real great on the dyno, then you ride it and put the bike in a real world scenario and it performs like doo doo. I am almost willing to bet my bike that the majority of people on this board who recommend things do not recommend them based on the last scenario I mentioned above. I have been home sick today, and have read over some ridiculous shit on this board all day. Even stuff from people who ought to know better with some of the answers they have been giving. In this day and age, it just seems stupid and foolish to throw parts at something and waste your time and money doing it. I dont know about the rest of you, but I tune, wrench, and ride because I enjoy it, and I want to be able to inform and help out my family, friends, and acquintances with what I know and have learned. There is an invaluable wealth of information on this forum alone. There are guys like DAJ, Banshee-man, and even known builders on here. Use search functions, ask more directed questions, and listen to what people are asking and saying to you. You amy not like the answers, but these guys dont have a reason to lie to you about what your asking. I personally dont have much of any interest in top end built banshees. I mainly build and tune low-mid bikes. Trust this, if you want to know about top end parts, I can still steer you in the right direction, so can DAJ, cause he drag races for fun. One thing I wouldn't do is settle for someone just having a cheap set of cylinders laying around, or some pipes that are a great deal just so you can pick them up and use them. In the long run your gonna create more headaches tuning, riding, and financially buying the right parts in the long run. Pick a direction, then move in that direction. Hope this sinks in to all the people on this forum with questions.

I put a 40 pilot in a 4mill dune port motor at sea level on memorial day weekend.

28-32mm. with K&N Pods if you ride sand. BUT!!!!!!!! You really need to make decision. A ported 350 with shearers is not going to be a very fun play bike. I really cant recommend much until you decide what you want to do.

so your runnin a spacer plate, and your domes are not cut?

Revs fully????? Achieving full rpm is the main jet, anything between 1/8-7/8 throttle is the needle. You need to adjust the main jet, then adjust or change the needle.

Im confused, you wanted a bottom end single carb setup with topend pipes. Then maybe a cub, Then twin carbs with a cub, then twin carbs with stock cylinders. What exactly are you trying to do, build the slowest drag bike ever?

Aren't the shearers a drag pipe?

If you have a midrange stumble, why would you lean out the main jet? You adjust the main jet= top end first. Then adjust midrange=needle second.

No, your wrong. The Jetting nightmares are on the pj's. 35mm is fine for a non-ported motor with pipes. I have dyno testing that indicated it was just the right size for stock motors with pipes, up to standard bore motors with partwork. You could go smaller, but you will sacrifice append a bit. Another question, why the hell would you run a 2 into 1 intake with T5's or shearers? This is a bottom end intake, those are mid-top pipes, and top end pipes. 2 into 1 intake works best with low-mid pipes like pro circuits, or pt mids. It makes no sense to run it with those pipes. The difference alone on a motor with pro circuits on the top end, at 8700 rpm between single carb and twin carbs, is already about a 4.75hp loss with the single carb. The gain on the single is only about 1.25 hp between 5500-6900rpm, and the torque curves are slightly better on the single up tp 7,000 rpm. Your shooting yourself in the foot running a single with those two types of pipes mentioned.

Carbon tech reeds will make more low end power than vforce reeds anyday. It just may not be worth it depending on your portwork, pipes, and carbs. Like I said, we need to know the setup. I am amazed how many people on here just answer questions without knowing anything about the bike. There is no possible good answer to this, or accurate answer based on the fact that someone thinks they sell more vf3 setups, or they are higher quality. Period point blank, I have done dyno testing, and ride comparison tests on these setups. I have seen on some setups the carbon techs beat the pants off a set of vf3 cages in the torque and hp department. Like I said, we need to know more about the bike before anyone can give an ACCURATE ANSWER.

Yeah, if your gonna order one, why waste your money on a 33mm setup?

Where they both blaster pistons? That needle is a twin carb needle, sounds way too lean. Needle selection for that is tough because of the elevation. I would think it would run like shit with a c series needle all the way lean in it. I would have probably tried a dek or a del needle in center clip. 40 pilot jet, 180-190 main and airscrew 1.5 turns out. You basically dial in main, then needle, then when its warm, adjust the airscrew for best idle quality and sound.

He already checked it with 2 different testers. I would personally run it, your gonna lose power everywhere if you drop the compression down.

not necessarily in low end compared to a set of carbon techs. Its gonna depend on his setup though.