Snopczynski

is there anything carved in the outside of the cylinder? Can you take any measurements of port heights or widths?

Dan at Patriot does still build motors and I will actually be over at his house this weekend. He builds some rip roaring fast stuff, and I dare someone to beat his prices on a regular basis.

Check the plugs, humidity will play a role. Usually warmer less dense air will take less fuel.

I asked Rich to do mine for midrange and mx type portwork (work with 2 into 1 pipe when I had it). I get it back, stuffs been smoothed out and moved a little. The step in the intake isn't even ground out, they didn't get too radical. It makes 66.75 hp on the crank dyno before I fine tuned even more parts on it. It has out ran a mid ported 4 mill, and stayed on the heels of a trinity 4mm 420. I haven't found many ported 350's that can hang with it either. The port work only cost me $500 also. I am damn impressed with it. Funny part is pulling up next to a ported 4 mill or a ported 350 with cpi's or trinity stage 4 pipes on them at the hill, beat em to the top or stickin right with them. They ride up and look at it, and figure out its got pro circuits on it with 28mm carbs, they are runnin a mid-top pipe with 35mm carbs. It puts alot of stuff to shame, and its a port job by someone who knows his stuff, but doesn't push the atv side all that much. The owner of Dynoport holds the record for the fastest 1/4 mile asphalt and dirt drags for a 1000cc snowmobile, alot of those guys are the no ones who take things to the other level. Back in the day at the Last real sandfest that they had on the Oregon coast. Two name motor built banshees took the crown in the 350 modified class, they beat out LRD, JD, and K&T ported 350's to take the crown. A lot can be told by just talking to a builder or checking into what some of his stuff is doing for drag times, mx racers, gncc racing or even other vehicle platforms like sleds or watercraft.

My guy is not on there. Rich Daly's guy at Dynoport did my portwork

do a search, your setup aint no different than most others.

The dyna has it built in and it should work in theory. If it doesn't work, send it back to dyna for warranty. One thing is for sure, those stock e-brake dump switches do go out a lot.

No it should be able to be worked out with changing needles or clip osition once close. Thats all I ran is pod filters.

He bought something from me. and he was a great buyer. Paid promptly and was greatful for the parts I sent him.

Same here. Thing is they will increase top end flow, but will decrease low end velocity. Typically the vf3 is more of a large flow reed cage and should usually be used where the capacity of the stock cage is surpassed or on a drag motor. For low or mid increases in power the stock cage with a good set of reeds will do a better job in the lower part of the power band.

We will see, I think there may be at least one guy who will do it.

I have dealt with a couple guys on here, wondering if anyone would like to comment about it in the feedback section.

Do you have a large cc engine? Whats done to your engine? What pipes?

I am not 100% sure a quadracer cable will work, they come with a mikuni tm. I do know that the Honda 250r cable will work. They dont make a pwk 34mm.

So cable for a keihin pj or pwk? Call cascade innovations tomorrow. Throttle cables are not pricey, usually around $25-$40

They still ride the river bottom huh? I rode out there when I was in college back in 2000. I thought they would have closed it down by now.

Exactly, whenever you test a change, its got to be ridden under a load with the motor warm. When I check my main jet I always ride the bike around for awhile at a fast pace. Then I ride wide open in 5th gear for about 100 yards. I shut it off, and pull in the clutch and coast to a stop and pull the plug. Im looking for it to be a nice dark brown color with no wetness. Then I know that if I rode it the 100 yards and it did not hesitate, burble, bog or backfire that it is jetted ok with that plug color. When we jet the needles we ride the same little area over and over with the needle changes we make and judge what the bike does by where we go next with the change. Even setting the idle airscrew has to be done with the motor warm after its been ridden.

I have both dyno sheets and real world experience. I just dont get how you can answer a question without knowing whats done to the bike. Obviously you haven't read the posts on the reed setups that I did. With stock pipes, vf3's will work better or be more noticeable. If you switch out to a mid pipe, or plan on building a more midrange oriented bike the carbon tech mid tensions will make more hp and torque than a vf3 in the midrange. Since the stock banshee pipe is such a top endy piece of shit the vf3 will work well. VF3 cages are made to flow on top, they lack the hp and torque you can achieve with a different tension reed everywhere else. I wont ever recommend a carbon tech high tension, because on topend the bike will make more power with a vf3. Down low, the vf3 cant compare to a different tensioned reed designed to open sooner and create more power and torque sooner. Its not rocket science, it just suprises me that everyone says vf3 is the way to go on EVERY setup when its clearly not from all the testing I have done. Hell we ran a seat of the pants comparison on a 4 mill Patriot Racing dune port on memorial day weekend. The guy ran the vf3 setup for about a year prior to the weekend. We were tuning it and I put the carbon tech mids in it on stock cages, and he said the mid pull on it was better, the top end did not seem to change. He kept the carbon techs in it.

You dont have to do a dc conversion and run hid's, thats why I showed you the vision LED xmitters.

You always check it warm, and you always check squish, especially when rechambering or changing a head.

stock pipes too?

Have no fear fellas, my good friend Nick is the owner of Vision X offroad lighting. He jsut came out with the new xmitter line of Led offroad lights. Go to the link and click on XIL-40:4 Vision X link These are the lights I am going to run on my bike. If you want some, I can get them.

Did you run the motor first and check the compression warm? Did you check squish? Did you put the correct thickness base gasket and head gaskets in the motor? My cousin has a ridiculous problem with not doing all this stuff, and he thinks he is a engine rebuild extroirdinaire. Come to find out we spent a whole weekend trying to tune a bike with .060" squish and 155 psi compression because he put in the wrong thickness base gaskets.

I used to run a 390 at sea level in my stock carbs. I run a 410 in my tm's now.

who put it together?