Snopczynski

Well we dont use the sniffer or the wideband on the dyno because the 2 stroke exhaust ruins them. So thats all I can tell ya.

Bike wash, it works wonders.

Why aren't you just changing the bulbs and leaving it wired the way it is now?

Not a great idea to use an o2 on a 2stroke. Oil in the gas will ruin them.

Stock regulator can handle 100-140 watts without much issue. But if you put an RS stator on, you need to upgrade the regulator. If your bike is going to be drawing less amperage now, then it was before, I would do the change. The tail light circuit still runs through the headlight switch. You need to be worried about the feed wire and the contacts in the switch, not necessarily the disbursement of the power.

The tr6 is a upper midrange pipe (9,000-9,500rpm) from what I know. In my opinion his pipes are going to limit his max rpm, thus making his need for a large bore carb next to nill. I dont think I would stick anything larger than 32mm's on it.

The stock 16 ga wiring that goes in and out of the switch is not really rated to handle much more than 150 watts. It may work, but by law its a no no. It may work out ok though, cause now your pushing even less amperage through it with bringing your bulb wattage down.

I wouldn't run any of those carbs, they are all too big.

Around Sumner and puyallup. Map Link

I mis-understood it. I though you wanted all the lights on with the high beam. It ought to work ok the way you want to do it. Do a search for the dc conversion, theres a hole thread on here about it.

It would be a good idea not to do it with the stock regulator connected. If I was gonna run ac still, I would just use a meter and ohm everything to set it up.

What did he say was causing the choppy up and down graph line at max hp on your chart?

Thats too much wattage to run through the stock switch. If you were converted to dc, you could run relays and do it.

I almost forgot. The midrange stumble should be able to be worked out with needle clip position.

You forgot the part about keeping the piston from hitting the head. :biggrin:

The dynojet is an inertia. I had the 68hp on the land and sea crank dyno. Thats the only dyno I trust engine numbers on. I usually use the other dyno to check run times, and break in motors while in the bike. Its alot easier to setup than the crank dyno. I dont know how much the crank dyno is, a friend of mine owns it and has had it for awhile.

I dont use pickle forks cause you can tear the boot with one. If my factory Audi ball joint spreader dont work, then I hit the spindle.

Was this an inertia wheel dyno or did it have a brake?

loosen the nut and whack the spindle with a hammer right on the side where the joints go in.

If he keeps his 89 spindles, then it will still work with the front brakes.

Wakeboarding? Where did it say that on my profile? I haven't wakeboarded in about 8 years. I wont get on the air chair again either.

It would be damn near impossible to do that, most of the time you got to be riding it, and it can easily be undetected by people watching and not riding the bike.

2 different dynos. Land and Sea crank dyno, and a Rear wheel Dynojet for atv's.

Most builders I know wont go over that stuff over the phone because they have to use duration calculators, and it depends on a bunch of stuff like gasket thicknesses, deck height, etc....... to determine how a bike will run.

Anyone playing the cod5 beta?