Snopczynski

Pure black is normal. Its the carbon deposits from your fuel. How do you know the piston was slapping?

Whoa here. Thats not all you needed to know. Did it just start doing it? Is this a fresh rebuild and then you heard the noise? What if the noise is a loose stator or loose flywheel rivets? What if its a transmission noise? Start with isolating the noise, then go from there. Why not do a compression test or squish test before tearing apart the top end?

Choke balance tube on? Torn intake boot on the right side?

The banshee cool head design is going to be the best thing out there for these bikes. After that, the time spent dinking around and decking a head, the rechambering domes is not worth the gain you will get.

Instead of putting a plus 4 timing plate on it, why dont you adjust the jetting instead?

Are you talking about the old school gold series pipes that came out in the mid 90's?

You can pull your head off to measure your exhaust port height and width.

If you want bottom end, those pc's are the best pipes for the job. You need to make sure your jetting is correct.

??????????? Point of purchasing which one. Do a search!

They wont be as bright as a 50w halogen usually is. You need to run 35 watt bulbs with a stock stator.

I would get some 22x11x8 skat trak super lite haulers for it. 9 or 10 paddle.

Good to hear its running well.

The price is not insane, and the halogens will not last longer than those led setups. I can get them also through vision-x, which those lsr lights are either the same light or a knock-off of what my buddy nick had made. The price will be less through me though, and you would have to make your own mounts using the stud setup that comes with the light. Before everyone starts pm'ing me about the cost of it. I will tell you this, your still going to pay alot, and the cost of one led light will cost you more than two trail tech lights. The ones I sell have a gel filled led and a shatter resistant lens. There is a way to get them bolted up in the stock location too. LED LIGHT LINKY

Dont look at buying trinity products as a viable option. What type of riding, wheres your portwork setup?

Good. How good is yours?

How does it run with those tires on it? What do you want it to do different? Wait a minute, what tires are those on it in the pic at the top?

This is going to vary by crank manufacturers, piston brands, spacer or dome cnc tolerances, and base gasket thickness. So the only real way to answer this is, check your compression first.

OK, I know that. Is it a Hauler, Extreme Hauler, Ripper, Ultra lite, super lite, etc....... All skat trak tires are rebuffed and paddled. It looks kind of like an ultra lite or a super lite. If thats the case, then how many paddles are on it? How does it run with those tires on it? What do you want it to do different? http://www.skat-trak.com/paddletire.html

which skat trak tire is that?

Do you not have the adjustable dip switch setup that plugs into the cdi? It has a label right on it that tells you which way to set the switches.

Take the wiring from the switch to the tail light and wire it to the trail techs. Then take the high beam wire and run it to the duner lights. Then your low beams will be trail tech, high beam will be dune lights and trail tech lights. Sorry, didn't understand again.

Need pics of the silencers. Looks to me off hand like power pros. I dont remeber bills having the cone pieces. I thought they were a stamped pipe.

Your gonna need to check the compression, also checking the squish would be a good idea too. No way of nailing it down without the compression check because your obviously running a stroker that could have about 5 different ways of being setup. All these different ways will effect compression and squish.

We used to run the 4 snow tires on a 1986 LT230E Quadsport out in the sand dunes. It actually climbed pretty well with them on it.

I use this stuff. Sparay it on, rub down with a mit, wash off. http://www.bikebrite.com/EnglishMotorcycle...orcycleWash.htm