fox_forma

if it is jetting related, most likely he is running lean if it wont kick over but it will pop start. Try turning the air screw in a turn and see if it helps.

cases: $140 shipped, need gone asap Clutch baskets and pressure plate: $50 shipped Actuator Arm: $12 shipped Clutch cover: $20 shipped Flag grille: $22 shipped OKBEAST: should know by 4pm about them rims :beer:

You could still have air in the lines somewhere though, i noticed these shee brakes are a real bitch to get working right sometimes, i think I went through 2 full things of brake fluid before I finally got it after I put a longer bolt in the lever, but it was right away after I did the bolt thing I could tell it was building up slowly.

Yeah theres a screw on the lever, I had to use a longer one, not much maybe a few threads longer for it to work. Also make sure you got the calipers on the correct sides. I believe the bleeder should pointing upwards.

I believe they are but I want to make sure first so tomorrow I will pull my rims off that are on there now and see if they fit. Did they change the shee rear bolt pattern at all over the years you know?

Any offers? I'm not set on those prices, just threw them out there, i really need to re-coop some $$ cause I got burned on ebay for my other project and I need to get it done ASAP. I also have a right side clutch case, would be perfect for someone to polish up since its not the prettiest, $25shipped I will also do full refund if not happy less the shipping charges

good looking dog, we had 3 pits at school in out house and they were both way different from each other in looks. One was an alligator pit or something, huge ass head and just all muscle, one was long and narrow, kinda funny looking for a pit. Then we had a pup before school was over, not sure where the alligator pit pics are but he was all white kinda like the one pictured but 5x the size, swear he had down syndrome as well.

couldnt the smoke be cause of the backfire? Its not burning the fuel off fast enough then when it does spark the excess blows out the back? make sense?

I run ATF type F in all my 2t's, seems to be the only oil my bikes like, never had good success with gear saver or others....... $5 for 2qts? I pay a $1 a qt at walmart :beer:

bout time to signed up TJ :beer:

I had a box of stuff just sitting in my garage and I just want to get rid of the stuff. If there are any questions please ask. Also I prefer paypal or cash on pickup if your local. So here it goes with the stuff I got. I have a set of cases for an RZ350. They do have the chain whack but only snapped the top piece so it doesnt leak from what I can tell. There are still some stuff bolted to the cases. The shift forks are still in there but are a little rusty, looks like its only surface rust. Also has a few other things as well still bolted in with a little rust on it but nothing major. Only thing still in the cases that would def need to be replaced is the pieces for the Tach hook up, that looks pretty shitty. Other than that the cases themselves dont have any rust, just the internals but its just minor surface rust from what i can tell. $165 shipped Second I have a gas tank without the petcock or cap: $25 shipped Clutch basket, inner +outer+ and have pressure plate as well. $65 shipped Clutch actuator arm: $15 shipped Flag Grille: $27 shipped I also have 2 sets of intake boots, i believe they are just the ones from the air box to the carbs. $8 shipped a piece If anyone needs anymore pics of anything i will be happy to get them. All prices are obo as well, just want some of this stuff out of my garage. I also have a set of rear rims, front master cylinder and stock exhaust that will be listed eventually. Located outside philly, pa

has the temp changed at all where your located?

My shee does it on occasion as well with not starting after its been sitting. What I do now is turn the gas on, keep the kill switch in the off position and give it a few kicks, then turn everything to the run position and kick it, it normally fires right up. It helps to get a little mix in the cylinders before it fires up I guess. It could need a bigger pilot though, eventhough after it has been started it fires right up afterwards, that could just be bacuase the bike already has gas flowing through it and its warmed up. Have you tried turning your air screw in a turn or so and see if it starts easier>?

I just went through the same thing, I used a mighty VAC and i started getting some pressure but not like it should. Finally I noticed that the brake lever wasnt pushing the nob thing on the master cylinder in far enough. I put a longer screw on the lever that would push it in further and it worked and now my fronts are good to go.

99

you have an 87

whats the 10th digit of the VIN

maybe a new cable is needed?

anyone on the engine codes?

Sometimes when you think your getting a great deal you get screwed, i won a set of front and rear fenders at a no reserve auction for a total of $60 for my TLD pred, the ballsack keeps telling me he isnt home and is out of town, he def isnt and I caught him in the lie but he just wants more money. Its happened a few times to me, set a damn reserve if you want more money, not my fault your crap sold for a .01!!! Other than that sometimes it works out

Ok well then I do have the RZ cases so thats a plus I guess, will check on the shift forks and get a pic as well. Ended up taking my chances with the front brake boot seal thing and it came out without ripping apart so thats a plus. Another question as well, can anyone decode engine VIN's to tell me the years?? RZ Engine VIN: TEL 001276 Shee VIN: 2GU 003732, think this is an 87 motor but just want to be possitive

I have a box full of extra shee stuff that I'm bout to sell off for some $$$ and a few questions I need to know first. I have a set of cases that have the shift forks still in them and a few other things, the cases have rz350 written on them. Is there a difference between the regular shee cases compared to the RZ, I believe someone mentioned a tach hole or something but not sure where, also is there a way to tell if they are the RZ shift forks and not a regualar banshee shift fork. Second is the front brake calipers, theres the piston which comes out then there is a seal inside and a rubber boot toward the outside of it, does that rubber boot come off, I have the piston out of the caliper but cant seem to see how the boot comes off, i'm pretty sure there is no way the piston can go back in the caliper with it there. Third is wheels. I have a set of wheels, just the rims, anyway to tell what offset they are? I believe that is all for now

Maybe you got a special engine and it doesnt have them or something, dont know what to tell ya. Maybe they are dirty and its hiding the real color of them???

you could also mix and match them, give you full range of the power

Old topic but what exactly does that boot do?