shanYE west

Sounds like it just needs a good cleaning..

Yep.. I'd have to say it sounds like a bogus deal and some effort should be made of some sort to correct it. The junk parts should have been brought up when received.. So I can understand that part.. but.. the 4mil crank is a pretty big issue and not easily accessible for inspection. What if this engine was sold to a newb that didn't know how to split the motor and didn't know any better? would that guy just be SOL cuz he didn't know? IMO... its a sour deal.

Not taking anyone's side here.. Is this or is it not a 4mil as advertised??? If it was advertised as a 4mil.. and it is indeed not a 4mil... Thats bonk and Dave has a right to be pissed.

here's my suggestions.. Nate McCoy, K&T, Titan Racing and A&S is who I would use.

who ported the cylinders and are they welded?

Dave I think I showed you and JT the pistons that this guy sold as "good useable pistons"... They were beyond trashed... I'll see if I can find it and take another picture.

I've met him a few times.. Last I knew he dont get on the net much. I've heard of a couple bad dealings now. I used to race with him out in albright shores. He helps run the sand drags there. I havn't seen or talked to him since they closed the track down.

I got a undercover slingshot.. $160 shipped. Still on my bike and havn't had time to pull it off and get pics yet.

Looks good. The color scheme on the head looks familar. I had mine PC'ed candy blue. I was gonna PC the lock up too.. but.... I got lazy... lol

depending on how bad the crack is.. That could be the problem.. I always do a leak down on a new motor just to be safe.

Toothpick dispenser break down again?...

Have to take off more then that.. You have to grind down the "waffle pattern" casting on the inside too. Not just the nubs.

I'll include all hardware. Only thing needed to use this with a stock cover is some minor grinding on the inside of the clutch cover. Or.. just use a 3" hole saw and cut the middle out. Wont have pics for a bit.. the lockup is still in my bike which is in the wharehouse at my work. Hopefully I'll have pics this weekend.

Never had one.. I wasn't spending $350 on a head. I'm sure they would cut custom domes.. but.. just like trinity.. your gonna pay for it. I'm just going to wait for NOSS or Chariot to make a head... I'd rather give the business anyways. http://www.2strokeheads.com/Banshee.htm

I got a undercover Slingshot lock-up that I need to sell. Only has maybe 30 passes on it. $160 shipped. This is the GP slingshot. Not the knock-off.

Sounds like the sputter is coming on around 5k if its just before the bike comes "on the pipe". Could be a electrical issue.. maybe not. What jetting are you currently using @ what elevation and temp? whats compression?

I'd look into 28pwk's A better all around carb. I use the 28's on everything other then drag builds. They work great on the stock ports too. Can be had just as cheap as the PJ's... Just need to know where to find them. They were the stock carb on some of the 80 and 85cc dirt bikes.

They do banshee heads as well. Problem with the torque-line/ RK Tek heads is that your limited to "Their" domes.. Nothing interchanges and if you need custom domes... only one place to get them. Puts you in the same boat as trinity. Not to mention the head is over $300. Atleast for my motor it was.

Yep.. My BS filter was full.. Had to clean it out a bit. Matched set on the gears huh? l I knew I did something wrong...

We use 2 different duneables.. One from Cubshee which is in a 10mil alky cub and the other is a WCR. Both are working flawlessly..

Midland?? I didn't think anyone was that close to me!!

In most cases I would say heathen is full of shit and dont know what he's talking about. I'd love to bust his balls on this one but... These 01's have 2 overflows..

I just happen to have a set of stock carbs sittin on my desk from a 01' hmm... lets see what I find..

I'd try readjusting it.. but do not use the arrows.. With some aftermarket clutches the arrows will not line up and be properly adjusted. First make sure you ball and rod isn't welded.. Put your clutch back together.. and when you adjust it.. Turn the screw in until it just touches.. then back it out 1/16 - 1/8 turn.