shanYE west

Slacker......

It'll leak eventually.. Might not at first.. but it will.

I was just gonna say.. Sounds like something JD could do.

No issues at all.. Even in 120+hp bikes.

Going to need VERY extensive case work to fit a bore that size into stock cases.. You'll also need all new inakes, reed cages, head and exhaust pipes as nothing from a stock banshee motor will bolt on. I dont know what your expectations are for reliability but.. with a motor this size.. its not a matter if stuff will break, Its a matter of when. They tend to find the weak links rather quickly and often.

Give the carbs a good cleaning.. Make sure no aluminum shavings found there way into the needle and seat.

I couldn't get link to work. Here is the pro-flow uni system. http://www.rockymoun...o#vehicleSelect

If your considering a duneable overide.. this stuff isn't needed. Trans will shift like butter without this stuff and you'll have to have the shift star modded again anyways. You'll love the duneable overide.. Once you use it you'll wonder why you went so long without it! Might as well save the money and put it towards the overide. These parts wont fix your issue either.

I dont think its from being a mechanic.. I used 22" holeshot XCT's on my trail bike.. still had no problems and I'm sure I was just as hard on it. Stock springs held up fine. I put a new clutch in when I got porting and it still looked good.. You never stated what clutch you were using. Its not a matter of being able to pull it... A good clutch pack can hold that power without any HD springs. Why add them if they're not needed. Not my build. He can do what he wants. We were just saying that its not needed.

Blue, Red, Black and bare were available last I checked.

What clutch were you using? Sounds like you might of had other issues going on in there. I had no problems with stock springs and PT mids with +5 timing in the woods.. I dont see a need for the extra tension on a stock port bike.. Power just isn't there to justify it..

ehhh.. Good thing its easy..

I use them, Very nice product.. especially if you pair them up with the matched intakes. Very sweet setup!

I'll throw in Compression/timing combinations.. If your running shocks.. charge pressures. There is a lot involved with tuning the chassis... In the drag world.. we're shooting for .01 of a second gains... Not 1 or 2 seconds per lap. We're constantly analyzing our time slips and make adjustments accordingly. We're constantly changing our setups to gain every little bit we can. A drag build is the most finely tuned out of all setups and requires the most tuning as our tuning never ends..

There is more to tuning then just jetting...

I'll give ya $25 for the lower hose! lol

Why switch the pistons if there is nothing wrong with them?

If the stator was changed.. I'd dbl check the pickup coil gap.. If the gap is too large it will make the bike sputter uptop. With pods and T-5's on stock porting I was using 290-300 mains with a 220# rider. Elevation was around 400ft. temps were around 65-70. Needle was 4th clip from top (blunt end) 5N7 is the factory needle. Toomey needles are Dynojet DN04

It is kinda rude that the guys first post with a legitimate question gets told to google it and search. He asked for help and I'm sure there is some people here that are more then happy to help him out. Its not like he asked about a boost bottle. By the way.. I looked through that link and there was absolutely nothing in there that pertained to his question....

Yep.. Same cylinder.

Dave, Does this mean your going to have the first twin cylinder 4-stroke banshee? lol

You will gain maybe 1-2hp.. but both pipes are very similar in power charecteristics.. Both ramp up very quickly around 5500 rpms. But the Toomey's tend to hold peak power longer.. Once FMF's hit peak power they fall off faster then the toomey's. (this is based of a stock 350 with stock carbs) But.. Most of the time the peak HP is only within 2hp of one another.

Then your not doing it right...

Cubs dont have powervalves.. The Cheetahs do. A 421 Cheetah is available. I thought it was kinda a dick move myself...

The bore will have to be corrected even if you install std bore wiseco's.. The forged pistons require a looser tolerance over the casted pistons.. You wouldn't notice any difference by switching to the wiseco's anyways.. Stay with the stockers until you need a bore or rebuild.