shanYE west

I hope they do the same to manning..... I think farve should have won MVP not manning..... so.. I hope they put a hurtin on him.

on stock porting with pods I usually end up around 290 on the mains with 27.5 pilots.. BUT.. thats in 75 degree weather.. in 40-45 degree weather.. your Definitely lean.. I'd throw a 310 in there and jump the pilot one size.. maybe 2.

stock carbs will perform well up to around 60hp.. if your in a pinch for money you could get the stockers bored to 28's and call it a day. You'll probably run into problems boring them to 30mm though. I'd probably just get 28pwks so you dont have to bother with the stock crap anymore..

And you'll have alot more into then that after you pay for mistakes.

Not a DM but.. Thats still a pretty good deal for what you get. When I said 7-10k.. Keep in mind that I was talking the complete build.

10mil DM is 611cc's

I hear ya Dave.. I just got my motor pulled.. My whole bike is a mess from when I lost my lock up cover and it sprayed trans fluid all over...

I've never had a issue with o-rings wearing due to sand.. Been using EK x-ring chains in the dunes for ALONG time now.

a 611 cheetah is going to be a cheetah DM.. not a cub. your looking around 7-10k depending on what deals you find and what quality of parts you use.. Keep in mind that nothing from a banshee will fit.. nothing can be reused.

Chassis was built by Paul Zigelbauer.. AKA "Ziggy" over on ATVdragracers.com It weight 235 wet. This chassis is VERY compact.. I know.. the rear shock is too long.. This was after I just got it together.. I got a shorter shock on it now so its not a high rider in the rear. And to keep things on track.. Another pic of my Tyson cut chassis. This one shows what all was cut out of the front a lil better.

yep been through lots of whoops.. where we drag gets pretty beat up after a bit.

heres is my old dune dragger. Keeping the uptubes really helps with keeping the motor/frame from twisting.

Throttle response is going to be mainly created by intake velocity... With poor velocity, the air cant pick up a good fuel charge at low RPM and will generate a lean condition.. and cause hesitation (poor throttle response). The example your using is merely showing a change in the power curve. I've never rode a bike with poor throttle response in the upper RPM range unless it was jetted incorrectly. Too large of carbs also contribute to this problem. I do beleive that the VF reeds are the best.. Why? because they have the broadest performance range. I just think that for smaller dune/trail builds your wasting your money because can get close to the same performance for less money. Its been proven to make more HP on a 350cc drag build over other reed systems. So its not just 7mil and up. If your building a drag bike.. its a no brainer. VF has been proven time and time again. There is a reason that 99% of all drag builds use VF cages. Go to a track and take a look around.. I doubt you'll find many people using something else. I have chariot cages in a 10mil right now. It dont think they're better yet. The bike is still being tuned. Once its done I'm going to try a dyno comparison.

The cascade stuffers work great with intakes that use the square opening that was matched to the VF2 cages.. Some intakes use the round opening that matches the VF3's original stuffer. Like the white knuckle and Vito's bullseye intakes. I wouldn't use the cascade stuffers in them situations. Always match the intake track up as much as possible.

my ford does the same thing.. doesn't have a lope though.. Just the high idle in freezing conditions until it reaches temp.

after we switched from the RAD's to stock cages and power reeds.. we eventually put a set of VF2's in.. We didn't notice a seat of the pants power increase. This was on a "dune" port stock stroke motor. So this goes back to why I said the VF are not always needed in every application. I will agree though that the rad valve was the best setup I used on my stock port/stroke motor. would probably work well with ported setups also as long as the stock intakes are used. I dont think i've seen a better matched intake track yet.

My opinions.. VF are the best... Are they needed? not always.. A VF will perform just as well as other cage/reed combo's on the bottom.. but I dont think it justifies the price tag when other reeds/cages will give you the same performance gains for less money. VF reeds have been proven to offer the best flow of any cage on the market in high RPM.. So it is the best choice for a drag build in my opinon. I have personal experience that the RADs didn't work well with larger carbs/intakes. The way the neck is on the cage chokes them down and generates ALOT of turbulence. I switched to stock cages with power reeds and it was night and day difference. I have heard that they make different cages to work better with the larger carbs.. but I have yet to see one. I check reeds once a year for wear. Sooner if the bike is having issues. Just my opinions..

I run about 2.5 in the rears and 5 in the fronts. I use Holeshot xcr rear and the stock 450 dunlops on the front.

agreed..

I'd jump to a 55 pilot for shits and giggles.. see what happens.

I know.

lol I didn't say it was a permanent fix. But it will help a bit until the problem is fixed. When Elka or works rebuilds them.. they use thier own internals and it is a upgrade to the stock internals. Its still cheaper then a used fully adjustable rear shock. Notice I said Fully adjustable. You probably wont find any fully adjustable rear shocks around 350-400. Just some food for thought and something to consider.

I dont know... I met Ray at a race up here... I would consider him questionable at best...

I posted on your other thread.

only thing you can do that is a quick fix is tighten up the preload.. Other then that, you might want to look into getting your shock rebuilt/setup for your weight and riding style.