SpecialEd 05

I've never thrown a chain in over 4 years. I still have the factory chain and sprockets. I clean and lube the chain before EVERY ride but it's time for a new one now though.

Yeah I thought the same. What's the local stuff, pure uncut crude? Good shiat...

Ooh yeah, like a shower of marbles. Yeah I was thinking maybe negative swinger but I'm sure Elka or someone had a shock linkage that was supposed to help. I've seen some people with adjustable ones with different holes, how do these work? I need to stick with an X tire because it's hard pack under the loose stuff and any type of paddle will rattle my eyeballs out of my head. Thanks for the ideas.

Yeah very dusty too. I love the dunes but when we're looking for a quick afternoon rap the trails are easier. The Raptors don't seem to have as much trouble with traction but the Banshee has always struggled in the dry. Bring on the wet weather! I just thought I remember a rear shock linkage made by Elka to help with this?

Hey all. Down here in Australia we have an abundance of trails mostly consisting of a very loose and slippery surface known as "pea gravel". This ball bearing type surface was a unique feature of the WRC rally stages that used to be held right here in Western Australia. The trouble I'm having is that against the 4-strokes I just can't get traction and the Shee doesn't "hook up" until I hit top gear. It's not so bad when it's moist but when it's dry it's almost like ice. Currently I'm running BKT X-driv tires at 3-4 PSI. I cross grooved the X lugs for more flex and it's a little better but it still lights up really easy when I gas it. It's impossible to wheelstand and when I drag against my buddies Raptor the only way i can stick with him off the start is to launch in third and feather the clutch. Any ideas or mods on ways to get more traction? Cheers. Pea Gravel - this is scattered across a hard pack surface on most of the trails.

If all you can get from your local dealer is 10w-40 then that's fine. Just make damn sure it says it's ok for motorcycle transmissions with a wet type clutch then you'll have no problem. Be sure to change your tranny oil regular and don't worry about a little metal filing in the oil when you drain it. It's quite normal for Shee's that's why you want to change it so often.

I had one not long after I got my new Banshee. I'm pretty regular on maintenance, I grease it every ride, do the air filter every ride and change the tranny oil every 3-4 rides. I was using Belray oils at the time and bought a bottle of Gear Saver 85 for after this ride. (to go with the half bottle from the last change) So we go for a ride and have a great time, probably ran about 3-4 hours up. Get back home and wash the Shee. Now time for an oil change and I'm like "I swear I had half a bottle of tranny oil left over" and then "that's funny, I thought I used that half bottle of 2-stroke oil..." "OH SHIT!" I accidentally mixed half a bottle of tranny oil as premix. The Belray bottles, even the color of the oil are identical I just didn't look at the label. :: So now I use Amsoil, there's no fuckin' that up. Well didn't seem to bother the Shee, i just drained the gas and mixed up a fresh batch. All good, my buddy was like "well any oil is better than no oil right". And 4 years on I still haven't opened the engine up yet. But I can tell Shee needs a freshen up so top end time soon.

Agreed. Which is why Banshee's generally have trouble "hooking up" and putting power to the ground. If you've ever noticed when following a 4-stroke you can see the dirt pulsate out from behind the rear wheels under acceleration. Banshee's however have a constant shower stream.

You have new tires right? I'll tell you right now it's the rears. We've tried this many times with our quads, the carcass of a new tire is quite heavy and at those speeds will shake the bike. If you're able to swap rear wheels with someone you know who's are half worn you'll notice the difference. beleive it or not the shake from the rears makes it feel like it's coming from the front but it's not. I wouldn't worry about it too much and as the rears wear down the shake will subside.

Yeah red/black stripe and the black wire. They will be paired. Just bridge it with a paperclip and check for spark to make sure, then connect it properly.

Yeah Google Earth is so handy for that. Just can't get the range with the Shee, need a 6 pack rack. Cant wailt til winter starts I hate this dry dusty shit.

Awesome dude, yeah we used to ride Pickering until we got wind of the rangers raiding it. We usually ride the trails out past Metro Rd and across to Edison Mill. We do a few Lano's-Wedge trips when e can. Just scoped out a spot called Flynn but I don't know how much traffic it gets though. Where abouts is the Mundaring spot?

Ditto, and can you ship to Australia?

Ha ha, it's only 10:10pm here. Hope you get her going good for tomorrow, or today.

Generally the fuel will slow through the needle and seat. Have you checked that the needle and seat open and closes freely and isn't blocked? How's the fuel flow on reserve?

How's the float level? May have been tweaked.

We still have the environment weinies here it's just that they would prefer to give the ATV enthusiasts nowhere to ride instead. With the amount of ATV's and dirtbikes here and sales getting stronger, there still isn't enough riding areas. Cramming all of these riders into designated areas on a busy weekend is downright dangerous, especially for the younger riders. Other options are ATV club tracks but there aren't many and to some this isn't their scene. This leads to a lot of illegal trail riding in state forests and people prefer to risk the fine possibly confiscation.

Yes you cans still buy one of these brand new off the showroom floor.

Here down under it's too friggin' hot and dusty in summer. On the forest trails there is absolutely no breeze so the fine dust just hangs in the air and you cant see when following someone. Usually need to leave a 2-3 minute break between riders. Besides that the gravel is so loose you don't hook up until top gear. Winter is the best time for trails here, no dust, not hot, awesome hook up, just better.

Bummer man, hate that shit. Yeah gotta use WD40 or something like that with alloy. The problem you have is it will bind and with the heat actually start to weld together. Even if the tap doesn't break, when you back it out it will rip the threads you just cut.

Ok a used Banshee with pipes etc like mine would get $4500-$5500 AUD An 05-06 Raptor 700 about $6000-$9000 AUD

Cheers for the replies guys, it'll be a while off yet before it happens if I change. Being a mechanic I got no problems with rebuilding the top end so that isn't an issue. It's just the suitability for the type of riding we do. Just scoped out a new riding spot yesterday in the forest. A lot of loose gravel, creek crossings, long distance trails and open tracks. This is our old camping site: http://au.youtube.com/watch?v=gDcR7XPwkf8

My experience with forums when asking for advice usually comes back with mixed opinions, sometimes even contradictive. This thread is not one of those. Evereyone who has replied so far has showed the same view and given similar advice. Take on board what they have to say because from their experience, they know what they're talking about and I'm sure if they had the same problem this is where they would start.

I don't get it, why do you need to see the coolant? Is it just wank factor?

Clean the carbs and reeds, comp test it, fit a decent air filter kit then get back to us...or earth?