SpecialEd 05

How old is the bike? For the first 12 months or more from new mine would leave metallic flakes in the oil when I changed it. I was aware this would happen and was told to expect that for the first 6-12 months. So because of that I would religiously change the tranny oil every 3-4 rides for the first year. The amount of flakes lessened quite noticeably the more I changed it to the point where I wasn't concerned at all. It's been going for over 8 years now on the same clutch with no problems and barely any flakes. Could it be clutch material bedding in?

That's exactly what I do!

Oh sorry. PM MattSCSS he will be able to hook you up with some LED lights. For a Brake light I got one of these LED combos. I've mounted it up to a modified stock bracket but you could easily fab one up. It seems to be bright enough to do the job. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Crystal-LED-Tail-Brake-Light-For-Yamaha-Banshee-ATV-Warrior-YFZ-WR-XT-Dual-Sport-/400460657733?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3d50b445

If you run some LED lights like Matt's from SCSS you could run one of these 5000mAh Lithium Polymer batteries. At 14.8 volts and 5Ah they should run a pair of LED lights for about 3.5-4 hours. Benefits are they are smaller and way lighter than an SLA battery plus nominal voltage will remain consistant throughout the entire discharge. All you need to get is a LiPo specific hobby charger to suit. This Is what I plan to do for some extra lighting that I can remove when I don't need it. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18631__Turnigy_5000mAh_4S1P_14_8v_20C_hardcase_pack_USA_Warehouse_.html

I had this with a new set of Pro-Design domes. I tried them before I fitted the domes and I found the plugs tight to screw in and would pretty much stop half way. So I just kept winding the plugs in and out with WD40 until they were nice.

I ran mine for 5 years no problems with stock pilots & 280 mains with Toomey T6's, VF3's and Uni Filter. I had to run with the lid on and snap in vents as it lost a lot of power with the lid off. I decided to do a top end rebuild for the heck of it, still had good compression of 125/125. But now I've jetted to 320 and 27.5 for lid off.

Yeah I see your point. I would be concerned about the rebound clicker being down there though. As from reading the manual the air sleeve is more important than the aluminum impact body as that's where the air seal occurs. It says that "small dings in the impact body over time are normal and nothing to be concerned about." A buddy of mine bought a used Banshee and couldn't work out why it handled so bad and made a clunking noise in the front end. When I had a look at it the stock front shocks had been installed upside down.

Ya think so? I agree with those X's that they mount to have the resi to the top but everywhere I've seen the R's have the air sleeve at the top. Even the Fox website shows them that way (not mounted to anything) suggesting to me that's how they should be orientated. If you look at the pic, the max pressure label is placed right way up for air sleeve up and even the older model non resi Floats had etched logo's on the caps the same way. To me they just wouldn't look right the other way unless they have resi's. http://www.ridefox.com/product.php?m=atv&t=shocks&p=1144 Even on sleds... [imghttp://www.snowmobile.com/gallery/gallery.php/d/34353-4/FOX-Float-Shocks-9204.jpg?g2_GALLERYSID=TMP_SESSION_ID_DI_NOISSES_PMT][/img]

At max length the shocks are 17". They're Float-R's not Evols, that's the way they're supposed to go. Going by pictures I've seen and the "150 PSI MAX" sticker on the air sleeve would be upside down.

As it sits, 15-3/4" with a little more stuff to bolt on and a tank of gas to add should see it drop a bit more. They cost me $751 plus shipping from Alba set up for my weight/style. I think later down the track I will get a Podium for the rear.

Finally got her back on 4 wheels. I'm really happy with the Laegers quality and fitment. No troubles at all. And the Fox Float-R's have it setting spot on right out of the box with the 50 PSI charge they came with.

Oh, you're talking about the steering stop at the bottom of the steering stem? That bending forwar is very common from the constant hammering of full lock. Mine was bent forward about 1/4" at the top. So I hammered it back, ground out the crack and welded then added some gussets for strength. I did this before powdercoating though.

Yeah, this is the best method. Like Tyler said, it's not that hard to move. Just place the jack on a piece of 2x4 sitting across the frame where the rear tank mounts bolt in. Then jack the hoop forwards from there. If the powdercoat is decent quality and you use some rags it should be ok. There was a thread on he where somebody was asking the measurements but I can't find it. Maybe someone with a virgin frame can help? I think I jacked mine a bit too far forwards but only by a bit under 1/4".

Being a 2001 model I would start with a set of upper and lower A-arm bushes and go from there.

How old is it? Do you mean you can feel movement in the A-arm pivot bushings? You need to find where the play is, I wouldn't have thought shock bushings would cause what you are saying.

Really it is quite simple. I did mine yesterday, took about 10-15 minutes all up. With the shock already off.

While you got those screws out, split it at that joint and seal it up good with RTV silicone. That's a prime spot for air leaks. Also RTV the pro-flow in place too.

It looks like it could be a G-Force (now Tusk). They are quite cheap new. Not sure if you can get parts for them though.

Yeah that's what I want to do but the K&N doesn't fit the Pro-Design adaptor from the foam filter setup. That is the 2 different filters won't fit the same adaptor apparently. I'm just wondering if anyone runs both types of filters and changing them out depending on riding conditions.

Also, it's a good idea to seal up the next join just before the carbs. The one with the 6 screws holding it together I noticed some dirt getting in and this was the only place left. It has a foam o-ring but I matched it up with a rubber o-ring and sealed it up with black RTV. I also did the same for the adaptor plate.

I just think it looks a little neater not hanging off the frame, just personal preference really. I don't think there would be a noticeable difference in performance unless you were racing long distances. Nice setup though dude. Did you notice much difference with the Elka linkage as a worthwhile upgrade? What swinger is that?

Yeah I think the remote resi won't be an issue but I was wondering about the non-remote "piggyback" style Fox Podium. Where abouts did you mount the resi? Got a pic? Cheers.

Anybody change out air filters for varying conditions? Like running a foam Uni-Filter for fine dust and K&N for sand? I've heard of this on other quad forums and thought it was a good idea to get both. I currently run the Pro Design Pro-Flow adaptor with foam Uni-Filter as I ride mostly dusty trails. Real dusty. But every once in a while we make a trip to the dunes and those foam filters are a bitch to get the sand out of. So what I wanted to do was get a K&N filter with Outerwear to suit the adaptor for the dunes. But I am told this is not possible because the adaptors for the 2 types of kits (K&N or Uni) are different sizes. Is this true? Is there an alternative that will fit the Uni style adaptor? I have bought the Outerwears cover for the stock airbox but it seems to fit like shit.

Is there anybody running Fox Podium X on the rear? Specifically the piggy back resi style. It says "removal of the airbox is required" but how much does it interfere by? I want to keep running the stock airbox for the type of riding I do but I'm wondering if I could get away with modding the box. Either that or I'd need to run the remote resi style but I prefer the piggy back. Pics would be great if anyone has some, of both setups. Cheers.