SpecialEd 05

If you're running no lid and K&N anything under 280 will be too lean. I'd be at a safe 320, seems to be the average size for lid off with 27.5 pilots at 1.5 turns out. With the V-Force reeds you should be dropping the needles 1 clip (leaner). If you have the Toomey needles (6 groove) you should be at the 4th groove from the tapered end. Here is a handy jetting guide. If you scroll to the bottom there is a list of mods where can add up the jet sizes from the mods you have to get a ball park idea of where to start. http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html

If you're splicing the O-ring you need to cut it at a 45 degree angle across the section the glue it with some CA glue like Loctite 401. The better option is to try and hav it matched up at an industrial seal supplier. And I think a nitrile O-ring will be suitable for coolant in 90 duro for crush.

No, one link is one side plate so every two pins is one link. I don't use chain breakers anymore as I found that the the pins would leave marks inside the link barrels as it is pushes through. Instead I just grind the end of the pins down with an angle grinder going half way through the link plate. The link pins will just fall out then.

Question #26 http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html

Do the TORS kit. It's pretty simple and gives you a chance to clean out your carbs while you have them off. The hardest part is syncing the carbs and making sure the idle opening is even. Then you can run it up and set your idle. A little tip, every time you remove the carb tops you will need to resync the carbs later.

For real? I've never bought chain like this. I just buy a pack of DID Gold 520 X-ring ATV chain, run it over the sprockets and cut it to length. Easy as and will never come up short.

If you need the O-ring for the cylinder-to-head surface that is in contact with the combustion chamber and needs to be a Viton O-ring. Any industrial seal supplier will be able to match up what you need. Just take the part with you so they can measure the groove and work it out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALLSTAR-ALL44137-Valve-Stems-Flush-Mount-/400282850354?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item5d32b79432&vxp=mtr Forgot the link. I tried it like this for a while but went back pretty much straight away. Now I have +2+1 arms and axle I don't need any more width. Not on the trails.

Do you mean the threads in the tie rods are seized on the tie rod ends?

The Alba gull wings are great looking arms but I gave up waiting for them to come back into stock so I went with Laeger +2 +1 LT instead. The decision forced me to go with long travels straight up instead of running the stock shocks with brackets until I had the coin to buy new shocks like I had planned to do with Alba's. That being said though I'm glad I went to long travel shocks and pretty happy with the front end.

Yes the airbox lid does make a noticeable difference. I used to run a modified lid with vents on 280 main jets. Went great. One weekend I took the lid off just to see and it was a lot flatter on the top. Noticeabley different. I started thinking my engine was on its way out so I got my buddy to ride it to see what he thought. We ended up putting the lid back on and it was back pulling hard again. As far as jetting goes mods like snorkel removal are worth an extra 2 jet sizes and the lid removal is another 2 jet sizes at least.

This is what I did except the hose was black so I got a mouthfull of brake fluid lol. Beer washed that away. But after having the bike completely apart the fitting some new streamline braided lines it needed a heap of bleeding. I did the suck through just to get the fluid there. Then I let it gravity bleed with both bleeders open for about 4-5 reservoirs full. Then closed the bleeders. Brake lever was absolute crap. So I just pumped, held, bled, closed, released, paused and repeat. Again for about 4-5 reservoirs and finished up with a great brake lever feel. Firm beacuse of the brake lines I guess but still a nice feel so it's not too grabby.

Good video, very thorough. I used to scrub it but now I just hit it good with some degreaser spray then blast it off immediately with the pressure cleaner being carefull not to get too close. Then I blow it dry with air and relube it with Rock Oil chain lube on the the inside only. Comes up like new and never had a problem with the degreaser or pressure cleaner damaging the o-rings. I did notice but is your master link clip facing the wrong direction? I thought the open end has to be trailing.

You can buy flush mount valve stems like this. They will clear the caliper but you need to take the wheel off to adjust air pressures. Or you can drill the other side of the rim and fit a normal valve there. But like said previously it sucks having that much offset. Way worse than spacers but spacers are bearable. The best way to get more track width is +3 A-arms and 3/2 offset (stock) rims. But a lot of people run +3 so they can run 4/1 offset rims for low bumpsteer. This would bring it back to +2 track width though.

Sweet, I think I'll switch over after this weekends riding. Only have one and a half quarts of Interceptor anyway. What I don't use will go in the yard tools which have been running castor for about 8 years!

So after reading this thread I'm thinking of switching to Dominator. I've been running Interceptor for years and have been very happy with it. First top end rebuild was done just recently after 7 years and the cross hatching was still visible. On measure up of the cylinders no boring was needed only a light hone and some new standard size pistons. Would I still see this kind of longevity on Dominator? How would it go on the trails and cruising? Which is what I ride mostly. Or do you need to be into the throttle fairly hard a lot? After all, it is a race oil. I just want to make sure it would suit me needs. I also hear it smells nice.

Hey. Just wondering what skid plate some of you guys are running. Speficially with a TM Designworks Slide'n'Guide kit. I've tried a Moose Racing plate and a JDS Customs plate and both will need quite a bit of modification to clear the TM Designworks guide. Has anyone had this problem?

Currently running the Toomey needle at the 4th groove down.

So I finally got the Shee back together and ran a bit over a tank through it yesterday. I went up in jets as I went to lid off with a Pro Flow foam setup, +4 timing, billet manifolds, VF3's, TORS removal, Chariot head with 21cc domes, Wiseco Pro-Lites and Toomey T6's. I based my jetting on the "What jets are you using?" thread and wend with 320 mains and 27.5 pilots. I'm really happy with how it runs, no bogging or hesitation whatsoever. My only gripe is that when trying to cruise up to mid throttle it seems to burble and sputter but pin the throttle from there and it rips. I played with the air screw a bit and seemed, to me, the be a little better screwing the airscrew out (leaner) to 2 turns. I know it's the nature of a 2 stroke so am I expecting to much to be able to cruise nicely on the trails? Is this just normal? Because I was feeling it may be a bit rich on the pilot.

I've been running Amsoil Interceptor on the trails and it burns clean and doesn't foul plugs like some other oils. I run it at 40:1 because it's easy to mix half a quart bottle to one jerry can (~500ml to 20 liters) The engine has lasted 7+ years on it before I decided to rebuild the top end. There was nothing wrong with it, compressions still good and it even didn't need boring. How much better would Dominator be? I've never used it.

You can order the needles direct from Toomey. Just make sure you order 2. I've been running them for years, only because they came with my pipes but I haven't had any tuning problems so far. http://www.toomey.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=vmj_funky.tpl&product_id=79&category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=3

Funny you should say. I believe it doesn't matter however I think the Float-R's (non-rezzi) should have the air sleeve to the top. But those Exo's shown with remote rezzi's should be mounted with the air sleeve to the bottom. Same goes with Float-X's and Evols that have piggyback rezzi's.

I pulled mine down and replaced the stock impellor to a Chariot billet impellor. The stock impellor though was in perfect condition as was the plastic drive gear. This had been run for 7 years with the only coolant change 12 months before the tear down. Could heat have cooked it and it became perished and brittle?

Laegers Long Travels +2 +1 with a set of nice 17" shocks up front like Fox Float-R's, Elka Stage 3's or some Works triple rates. Then just get the stock rear shock revalved/rebuilt.

Never had a problem using Belray Gearsaver 80w.