SpecialEd 05

They are 17". I originally ordered them to suit the Alba LT's but I got tired of waiting for them to get them back in stock. So I went with the Laegers and I'm happy with the quality of them.

The exact arms I have except mine came with the offset inserts for the upper ball joint so you can increase/decrease castor. I've ordered the non-offset inserts like on Tylers to get that "in between" setting. I've only got Float-R's to run on mine though. But I won't have those clearance issues on the Evols.

I paid $754.95 plus shipping from ATV Galaxy on eBay. They're quite good to deal with. The arms themselves appear to be decent quality and are greaseable but do not come with new bushings. However they take stock size bushings so you can either use your old ones or there is a selection of aftermarket bushings available. I opted for a set if pivot works needle roller bearing kits instead of bushings for smoother suspension action.

Ok, so I ended up ordering a set of +2 +1 Laegers long travels. They cost a bit more than the Alba's but I like the idea of them running stock size bushes. I'm going to order a set of TM Designworks No-Stik bushing and moly sleeves. Thanks for your advice.

Hey all. I finally received my set of Fox Floats which I had set up for my weight/riding style to suit Alba A-arms. They are 17 inch eye-to-eye. My problem is Alba arms won't be available for another month at least. So I was thinking of getting a set of Laegers. Will these shocks fit or would I be better off waiting it out? I've already waited about 3 months so far. How do these they compare in quality?

In RC they will work on any brushless or brushed setup. Even in a scale rock crawler where they draw very little current they'll run for 2-3 hours on a 5000mah battery. I don't think under discharging is going to be a problem and the supply on a 4s LiPo is definitely 14.8 volt DC so you won't need any special kind of controller, just connect red/+ve & black/-ve. The only thing you could add is a low voltage cut-off to eliminate over discharging but I think you'd definitely notice the lights drop before then.

LiPo batteries have come a long way, even the cheap ones. Haven't seen any 'go-up' at the RC events I've been to. You get a bit more safety with the hardcase ones too. So long as you don't exceed the maximum discharge rate you will be fine. The 'C' rating mulitplied by the capacity of the battery in amps gives you the maximum discharge rate. So 5000mah 20C will supply a maximum of 100 amps continuous power but only for 3 minutes at that current (or 2 amps for 2.5 hours). More than enough for a couple of CREE LED's. Dedicated AC/DC LiPo chargers are pretty cheap too these days, I already have one. And as long as you charge them at the correct rate you'll have no problems, usually 1C (5000mah @ 5 amps) They can even be charged off a car battery if you're on a trip.

I just fitted a set of these Pro-Design intakes. Very clean looking and no crossover. They came with genuine Mikuni flange adaptors. No cleaarance issues with the clutch arm, however running the stock airbox makes it very tight. I had to cut 1/4" off the front two pipes on the airbox and trim about the same off the back of the rubber adaptors then push them as far on as I could get them and clamp them in place. Pretty happy with how they turned out though, I don't think anything will come adrift. http://www.bansheedepot.com/proddetail.asp?prod=22-5772

So true, and the loss of end voltage after the rectification would be more with this method. I guess if you want a 'bolt-on' DC power source then something like a 5000mah LiPo battery from an RC car would work. Say for someone that wants a removable add-on LED lighting setup. Something like this would give around 4-5 hours of lighting from 2 of Matt's lights at 14.8 volts. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2x-5000mah-HARDCASE-RC-CAR-14-8v-4S-lipo-li-po-battery-1-8-scale-buggy-truggy-/261038128902?pt=AU_Toys_Hobbies_Radio_Controlled_Vehicles&hash=item3cc715bf06

Just wondering, would wiring in a bridge rectifier work? Especially on Matt's LED lights? Seems like it would be simple to make up with the right components and wire in line before the lights. http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_6/chpt_5/6.html

The screw came loose in mine while I was hammering the stop straight and it literally fell out. I made a tool out of a M24 nut with a 32mm hex which I ground down to a 30mm hex at one end. Worked a treat!

No problem, I'll get some progress pics. Another thing you might want to do is check your steering stem stop where the bearing is. The stop has a common problem of bending forwards and cracking at the weld. Mine did. I bent it straight, rewelded and added some gussets for strength.

Pic #1 - Yes, they're only used for stock exhaust. Pic #2 - Only if you're not running factory steel heel guards, ie. pegs only. Pic #3 - If you're running 'race cut' front fenders remove these. Pic #4 - You might want to keep these as some aftermarket exhausts mount here. They also add frame strength as a gusset. Suggested bracket removals: There is another exhaust bracket rearward of that last pic, it has an M8 thread inside it and is welded top and bottom right on the 'S' bend of the uptube of the subframe if that makes sense. You won't need that as that's where the stock exhaust mounts up. If you're going to run cutdown rear fenders you might not need the two brackets that poke out each side of the subframe, depends on how you plan on cutting the fender though. Also, if you planning on upgrading to braided brake lines remove the tabs on the front where the bulkhead union clips in for the front brakes. I just did all these recently except the fender brackets and it really cleans up the frame. Got everything powder coated gloss black and it's all going back together now. Waiting on my Fox Floats and Alba +2 A-arms.

I like the Duncan Racing one personally. Simple and clean looking. Nice Shee BTW, whoevers it is.

Take it to Tulsa and bury it in a concrete box for 50 years!

+1. I was misinformed on another forum that they weren't very reliable. But seeing as they're the only seller on eBay that sells the Duncan Racing front bar I thought I'd give them a shot. Well I was impressed by how quick it arrived something which cannot be said for other sellers. I wish I had have bought most of my other parts from there.

How are the new arms coming along? Got a stock date at all? The rebuild is in progress and I'll be needing some arms soon.

The Trail Tech halogen 35 watters will run off AC and the stock stator will handle it ok. Probably the best bolt on option without having to modify the electrics. HID or LED lights will require floating the ground, wiring in a regulator rectifier and fitting a small 12 volt battery into the system.

I spent over $200 on 316 grade stainless fasteners for the engine and everything that bolts to the frame, mostly button head cap screws. The only things that are staying stock are suspension and engine mount bolts. I looked at Cascades chrome hardware and almost had a heart attack "That's PER bolt???"

I have a 2005 SE which came out black with purple/silver graphics also. I considered going with a darkish candy purple frame but decided to keep it simple and clean and went with Wet Gloss Black which also leaves my options open for later fender changes if I want to. I would like to see how it might have turned out, I'm keeping the fenders uncut too. I just dropped it off today and it should be done by the end of the week. And totally agree with cutting off the unnecessary brackets. I also straightened and gusseted the steering stop and chipped off all the factory welding spatter, It looks a lot cleaner now.

Do you mean how do you get them out? There is a locking strip that slips in between the middle reeds. It goes in and out from one end. Push it out then you can remove the retainers and reeds.

That's awesome, good to see manufacturers backing their customers with after sales support. I'll definitely be ordering a set when they are back in stock. Which will be 3 weeks?

Yeah like I said, it depends on the shock length, preload and A-arm design. I agree, taller tires say 22" or 23" will give more ground clearance where it's needed, at the brake caliper.

I'd go with 3 + tee personally. I think it looks cleaner.

If you want to run proper 'long travel' A-arms then you'll need longer shocks. Like 17-18 inches eye to eye depending on the brand of A-arms you get. If you run +2 A-arms that say they are suitable for stock or aftermarket shocks then you can run your Works triple rates and they should be around stock length. Neither A-arms will give more or less ground clearance, it will depend on shock length, preload and A-arm design. What it will do is allow you remove those wheels spacers and bolt the wheels straight to the hub again. The inside of the wheel will cover the calipers more and protect them better. If you're looking for clearance on the actual A-arm itself look for something with a gull wing design like Alba's. They swoop down on the lower arms and create a little more clearance. They also have an adapter bracket that comes with them which lets you run stock length shocks, or if you upgrade to long travel shocks you can remove the bracket and run them on the outside. Hope this helps.