SpecialEd 05

I've got pretty much the same setup, except the boost bottle. Going Chariot head with 21cc domes, Chariot billet intake with internal crossover, Chariot timing advance plate at +4 degrees, Wiseco Pro-Lites, rejet to 320 for lid off with Uni-Filter. My Chariot parts got here this week, just need domes and pistons now. If you feel you don't need a top end rebuild just go with the head, domes, intake and timing advance.

The main reason I want to go with the Lightforce 140 is because they are renowned here in Australia to be one of the toughest lights for off-road use. Constructed with composite and polycarbonate materials they will survive the toughest conditions. I just don't want something that will smash, fall apart or vibrate out of adjustment on rough trails. Some of my buddies have fitted other halogen lights on their Raptors and are constantly tightening up the bolts or getting smashed lenses. As for their appearance, they measure only slightly larger in diameter and if mounted in the stock location will sit about an inch higher. I actually like the look of the stock size lights over the smaller Trail Tech or similar style. I realize that LED lifetime is far superior to anything else and is probably the most efficient form of lighting. It's just I find sometimes LED lighting while bright can look too white, just my opinion. Just so many options I guess. Yeah I guess it would be good to be able to turn the lights on with the engine off but so would reverse lol.

I don't really want the hassle of mounting a battery as I want to keep the stock air box for wet weather. But if I did and ran a stock stator with DC conversion and battery I would be more inclined to go HID Lightforce 140 Lance. What would be ideal is somebody who makes AC LED lights that will bolt straight on because as from what I hear, converting to DC will lose some output capacity of the stator by 15%. Not sure exactly, I just like to keep it simple is all.

Ok. So I've done some more research and with that and the advice here I've come up with a couple to choose from although I think they may come out of the same factory anyway. From what I read on the Electrosport version I will need to run 2 regulators to get the full power from the lighting windings. How do you then run that supply to the lights? Splice it or separate feeds to each light? What to go for? Here are the links: Electrosport Moose Racing Thanks.

I've got pretty much the same setup, except the boost bottle. Going Chariot head with 21cc domes, Chariot billet intake with internal crossover, Chariot timing advance plate at +4 degrees, Wiseco Pro-Lites, rejet to 320 for lid off with Uni-Filter. My Chariot parts got here this week, just need domes and pistons now. If you feel you don't need a top end rebuild just go with the head, domes, intake and timing advance.

I ran 280 main jets (the larger of the jets supplied by Toomey with the T6 kit) ,V-force 3 reeds and Uni-Filter in airbox with no issues. Sea level altitude but here down under it's not really a factor to consider where we ride anyway. However, there is a noticeable decrease in power if the airbox lid is removed, I will be going to 320. So I would say if you have correct jetting to begin with and you don't carry out any other mods like higher flow air filter or airbox lid removal or both (if not already done), then you shouldn't need to rejet. For the gaskets I simply use a thin layer of grease, this makes removal or the cages easier and you can reuse the gaskets. After 5 years of running the reed cages were stuck reasonably well and popped off with some effort. The gaskets were still intact and will be reused and there we absolutely no signs of air leakage or dirt ingress.

Ok, so I'm trying to find some info on Wiseco pistons Pro-Lite (513) and HP Series (842). I know the HP Series have hard coat anodizing and are obviously the racers choice. But are they worth paying the extra for in a trail/occasional sand drag engine? Is one better suited for this than the other? My thinking with engine parts is that racing components tend to have greater strength and durability but can also have a shorter overall life span than something a bit more conservative. Not too sure which to go for and I can't seem to find any info.

I have mine on the way. Plus the billet intakes and timing plate.

What sort of lighting could you run off a 200 watt stator? I'm thinking of running a pair of Light Force 140 Lance with 75 watt halogen bulbs. I had a measure up and I think they'll fit in the stock location quite easily.

Does Yamaha make a genuine high output stator for the Banshee?

Usually through winter we go out off Brookton Highway opposite Metro Road in from Yarra Road. We started at Metro Road years ago but have moved on to several new spots because it was starting to get busy. The spot we have now is nice and quiet, we usually set up camp and head off for trail rides. We also do a few trip to Bremer Bay and up to Lancelin occasionally but I prefer the bush trails myself. And the Left side of the road IS the right side...

Sweet, sounds good. I'll get onto Rootracing. dirtydownunder, I already have the Uni-Filter with the alloy adapter from when I first got the Shee because I wasn't happy with the stock cage setup. I see you're from Perth too, where abouts do you ride?

Hi all, Been looking at cool heads for the Shee. At first I was going to go with Pro Design but I checked out the Chariot Performance gear and it looks pretty good, I like the anodized black. I'm just wondering what the quality is like compared to other brands. Do they also make domes or do you need to source these elsewhere? If so, who makes the best quality? My intended mods are; oversize Wiseco Pro-Lites, Chariot head, Chariot billet intakes with built in crossover to suit V-Force 3 (already have VF3's), plus 4 degree timing advance, rejet to 320 for lid off with Uni-Filter. Currently running TR6's. Haven't quite decided on dome size yet, I always use 98 RON so would I get away with 20cc or better to stay safe at 21cc with this combo? Thanks for any advice...

Thanks for the replies guys. Does anybody know if the Moose Racing stator is any good?

Hi there. I'm looking to fit additional lights for night trail riding in winter. We regularly ride at night and things seem to come up a lot quicker when it's dark. I'm currently running stock lights with PIAA H6M bulbs and an LED rear bulb in the stock housing. What I want to do is add 2 extra lights of about 55w on the Hi circuit. Who makes a decent high output 200w stator? Cheers.

Yeah the stock headlight bulbs are 30w/30w hi/low and the tail light is 5w/21w tail/brake. For last riding season I fitted a set of PIAA H6M bulbs to the stock housings. These run at 35w/35w hi/low but because they are a xenon hybrid bulb they are equivalent to 60w/60w halogen. A problem the Banshee has even with the stock bulbs is that when you hit the brakes you lose almost half your lighting because the 21w brake filament robs a lot of power. to overcome this I fitted a BAY15D LED hybrid bulb. The low current draw means that when you hit the brakes at night you don't lose any lighting (unless the engine stalls) The only downside is the LED bulb can be difficult to see during the day. I simply swap out the stock bulb during the day any run the LED at night, it only takes a minute. Another tip for better lighting is to remove the headlight buckets from the housings and remove the grill, then polish the lens with some metal polish. You'll be surprised how much clearer they come up...

40:1 Amsoil Interceptor. Yeah 210 doesn't sound right. You should be around 260-280 piped, running stock carbs with airbox and foam filter.

Yeah definitely something wrong with the Shee. Compression like that says it all. I'd say top end rebuild at least, most likely bore and oversize pistons.

I've done it a few times by accident. When the Shee's crossed up real bad and ain't coming back, the best thing to do is keep it pinned and 360 otherwise it will tip.

+1 Been there and tried it on a highway, my Banshee (see sig) v Raptor 700R with GYTR slip on only. Definitely neck and neck until top gear, nothing in it. The Raptor tops out first but most likely because of the speed limiter which apparently detunes the engine by backing the ignition timing off when in top gear over a certain speed. Piped KFX400 would be close behind. In the dirt though the 4 strokes put the power down and get the holeshot almost every time.

A bit of WD40 will help that sucker slide on and also seal it enough so it wiil take air from a small pump. Has worked for me many times

Renthal ATV/PWC Full Diamond Grip - Firm.

Sorry to hijack but I'm also having this problem a bit. It misses on the right cylinder at idle and up to mid RPM but it fires ok at WOT. Still hauls ass no worries. I was thinking maybe pickup gap? I tried swapping plug leads and the miss stayed with the RH cylinder.

Half the reason why I switched back to Amsoil. It sits longer and plugs hate castor when riding tight trails.

I don't go home 'til it's all burnt. Nah seriously though if you keep it cool and out of sunlight it will last longer but I usually try to use it within 3 months otherwise it goes in the car. And 2-stoke costs more so I hate to waste it. I use 98 only aswell.