SpecialEd 05

The OEM filter cage doesn't have a screw to secure it in place, it relies on the lid to keep a seal which is why they're junk. Pick up a better setup straight away before you go running it around any more. Something like this Pro Design kit. eBay link

What I would be doing is removing the carbs and reeds and completely cleaning them out because chances are they're full of gunk. Do this and then get yourself an aftermarket air filter kit, one that has an aluminum adaptor. Then put it back together and go from there. Maybe, just maybe engine damage is not too severe and you might get away with it. Is that how you got it with the air filter like that? The dude you bought it off has just put a zip tie around the foam to hold it on >FAIL!<

HOLY $HIT DUDE! that air filter is baaad news. If it's been ridden like that for long the engine is surely dusted. The holes in the carbs are normal, they're just where the idle speed screw would normally go when the carbs are used on a non TORS system.

If you drain the transmission completely then use 1500ml of 85w gear oil to refill it. If you're topping it up then just add the oil until it's at the top line of the dipstick. Being that you don't know what's in the transmission at the moment, I recommend changing the gear oil completely.

So who's from West Australia? Where do you ride both desinated and non. Don't see many Banshee's around here much, most people have phased over to 4-strokes now. I'm considering it too but I'm just wondering where all those Shee's are hiding these days.

Best tranny oil IMO is Belray Gearsaver 85w and that's all I've ever run. Gear box takes 1500ml from empty. That 2-stroke oil you've got there has a picture of an outboard motor on it so that means it's a marine oil and I'm not too sure what you can mix that down to. I would recommend Amsoil Intercepter mixed at 40:1, hasn't let me down.

Hey all, I need some help. I've had my Banshee for over 4 years now and have added a few things over time. I've been very happy with the performance of it and it's never let me down. Given that it get's used every other week for about 9 months of the year (because it's so damn hot and dusty here in summer) and is ridden on a mixture of trails and dunes the engine hasn't been pulled down at all. Last compression test about 2 months ago showed 125 PSI both cylinders but lately it feels as though powerband comes on a little later than it used to. I feel it needs a top end job on it. Don't get me wrong it still screams but it doesn't feel at home on the trails anymore. I'm thinking about moving with the times to a 4-stroke. I'm thinking that that Raptor 700 would be best suited for trails and dunes but I've been hanging for the injected 450R for a couple of years. I still love the Banshee and if I could have both I would. I just want something I can ride hard all day and not feel like it's been raped. I also want the 4 stroke range for some long trail exploration. So should I: a) Raptor 700 YFZ450R c) Put more $$ into the Shee. Cheers...

Purple Polish On chrome... On alloy...

Failing that, get them re-chromed.

Just a cloth and some hard rubbing will do it. Everytime I get some melties on the TR6's it takes about 5-10 minutes to get the melted parts off then I do the whole lot. Oh and stand the bike on it's end so you can get into the parts underneath. best stuff ever.

Link - http://www.californiacustom.com/purple_metal_polish.html I use a soft cloth and polish it in good, then use a dry cloth to take it off. "Wax on wax off"

Purple will take it straight off for sure. And any blueing or baked on mud. Takes less time than removing the pipes all together.

This is the best stuff I've ever used, comes up like new. Good for the body of the aluminum silencers too. I dont use steel wool though just a soft polishing cloth. http://www.californiacustom.com/purple_metal_polish.html

Yeah invisible valves they,re called, got them from Tip Top Rema but you should be able to get them in at any tire place though.

They're kinda like a metal plug with a valve inside. You fit the valve part from the inside of the rim and then the nut on the out side. The valve part is actually inside the rim and to inflate them you get a special stem with them. There is a plug you remove first and then the stem screws in. You'll need the wheel off if the valve is inward. But the best part is you can flip the rim offset either way unlike if you just plug, re-drill and put the valve on the other side.

Has anyone ever inverted the wheel offsets to gain extra track and are there any concerns or faults with this? My friend has done in on the front and rear and gained 4" extra track width with stock A-arms and axle. We used "invisible valves" to clear the brake calipers on the front and with a height of only about 1/4" they clear fine. But I was wondering if this would stress the spindles/ball joints or axle/bearings.

My friend had this problem a few weeks ago. Ended up being one of the switches on the top of the carbs wasn't closing the circuit in the idle position. Fixed it by attaching a scotch clip (if that's what you call them over there, you know the double joiner thingy to tap one wire into another) anyway clipped it to the wires on the faulty carb. There are two pairs of yellow and black I think, one pair to each carb. A bit dodgy but it worked and he doesn't care anyway. :shrug: