SAVAGE420

Are they BRAND new shocks, or did you buy some generic off the shelf elkas off some website already pre-built? Whats the deal here?

That is the CDI (capacitor discharge ignition) AKA the "brain". It looks to be banged up pretty good. Im going to say its fuct. Looks like he will need a new one for sure. Don't buy one from Yamaha (expensive). Someone on here will have a good used one for a good price for you.

Short, wide and low.

.010= 64.25mm .020=64.50 .030=64.75 .040=65.00 .050=65.25 .060=65.50 .070=65.75 .080=66.00 .090=66.25 .100=66.50 Yours at .100 are paper weights now. Display them on the shelf proudly, they had a good long life. Don't even bother with a re-sleeve. You can fine low bore cyls all day long here for fair prices. Even ported ones.

What timing and other stuff do you run now and with what fuel?

Warned about what Jabroni? I'll just seal off the vent 100% on the VP. Good to go. I have the good old style VP jugs with handles on both sides.

Anyone try the Spout on a VP jug yet?

I would just angle grind the heads off, then whack them with a center punch and then drill them out. Try not to grind/drill into anything else.

Explain!

Lube them up with penetrating oil, and let sit for a while. Then give it a good couple whacks with a hammer while pushing down on the tie-rod ends. There is probably some rust in there. If you are just putting new tie rods on, there is no need to take both the tie-rod ends out of the steering stem. Just thread new tie rods on and your golden. FYI!

This Cracka Pays up Quick with no lip. Good buyer.

Huh, too heavy??? Wierd. Rides Rad when adjusted right as anything else.

Set it for 1/2" toe in. Works well. Measure once, then jump up and down on bike and then measure again. I always measure from center of the tire to center of tire , front and back of the front tires. Have at it.

Well the 450 shocks will fit if that's what you have. When I was throwing the arms on a while back I had a set of 450 shocks that I bolted on just to see whats up. It will just sit a bit lower but rideable no doubt if thats all you have to work with for now. Here is one of the pics of one installed when messing around in the shop. http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c164/savage_420/DSC00150.jpg I run some 18" Gen 2 Fox Float X Evols with these arms as I said above. Love them. One thing I found with these floats, is that take your time and set them up right. Write down what settings you set the hi and low comp and rebound and especially how much pressure you put in the main air chambers and evol chambers. I've played with the air pressures, hi/low comp and rebound a shit ton now and everytime its that much better for every type of riding. Crazy adjustable shocks, can totally change them up in a minute or 2 out on the trail or at the track with the lil pump. Good times in the hills!!! Damn that's lots of typing with sausage fingers on my phone.....

I use it on all my electrical on my bikes and some shit on the sled. I first started using in years back on my nitro rc trucks, servos and batt box ect for running through water. Pretty good.

Nice. I have the same front end. Just with the newer Gen 2 Fox Float X Evols.

I personally wouldn't run any shorter then I run on my bike for the variety of terrain I ride around here. Sometimes it gets real hairy on the give it all steep technical climbs. But for general rippin rippin around on, its perfect for me. I change from 18's to 20's out back depending on where I'm riding and its quite a bit different how the size of tires react.

I run a -1 Swingarm with 20" rears and AC Propeg Nerfs. It gets to be tight when rear suspension is fully compressed. Go do it up!!!

You have to have patience with Jesse. He is SLOW at times.

17"-18" is max length for them without binding.

You're doing it "ALL"wrong

I use the gaskets as well as a thin bead of high heat engine silicone on both sides of intakes and reeds, and everything else from the carbs down to the jugs.