So here is a discussion topic about the spacers.
Do they go between the cylinder and the reed block
or
between the reed block and the intake boots
Keep it freindly but I've had an opion on this and would like some others insight to this topic
So here is a discussion topic about the spacers. Do they go between the cylinder and the reed block or between the reed block and the intake boots I'll start a New thread and insert the link here.
Water in the carbs, Wet air filter restricting air flow, wet fly wheel stator pick up, wet coil, cross over tube knocked off???? TORS? Your compresion is fine.
Throw away the lower frame roller. It just provides more torque to the output shaft. That is why this spring tensioner was designed. I never run the upper roller either. when under load the chain is preatty tight on the return to the engine.
I belive when you open the side cover you might be able to just undo the screw that holds it on the shift drum. If not you will need to remove the whole clutch basket to get to it.
You can get a timing plate and advance it 3-4 degrees ($35 ebay no need for the billet prodesign). You need to jet it higher withthe new pipes. you might look into just getting K&N Pods instead of the air bok but I don't know what you ride in.
If your talking about the little black rubber rings, TOSS EM. you only want Steels and Fibers between fiber 3 and 4 you can add 2 steels if you have the room on a 7 plate.
Last bump for the members going to list the following if noone steps up.
Billet Spark Plug Retainer and usable as wrench $20
Carbon Fiber Tank cover $50
Cylinders $200 Measured out at 65.91mm and 65.73 Should be able to have 2 more overbores according to wiseco piston chart. Very mild porting. I wanted to resleave them for Blaster pistons and a 4 mill but I don't have the time or money.
Front Tires $100
PRICES ARE SHIPPED TO YOUR DOOR AND I GOT PAYPAL!
MP Racing which is no longer in service. One of three that were made out of Polished Stainless Steel. Wish I could help you out on who makes a better one.
If properly adjusted you don't need the Ideler screws. I have set up many including my own and I don't use them. You need to take the time and use the adjusters on the carb tops then take the play out at the thumb throtle. Then you can change your idle on the fly without messing with your carbs.
I find myseld turning my idle up in the morning when the bike and weather is colder and by the end of day I'm a long way away from where I started.
It depends on the mounting tabs if you can run the shocks Do you have long travel or stock lenght shock a-arms. There is a difference. You can install the YFZ shocks on OEM banshee a-arms if you have the shock a bit. I have some aftermarket a-arms where the mounting bracket has some extra height to it which allows the sock to clear.
Don't waste your money Find a good used set if your on a budget but the knockoffs are hard to tune if you can even tune them and I've seen a set that leaked air through the cap.
You gotta take the elevation into account he is in Grand Junction not at sea level.
Check compresion
Is the frame Powdercoated?? You need a grounding strap from the motor to the frame where bare metel is. Not just the grounds on the wiring harness. Sometimes that makes the difference.