bk_banshee

I haven't seen a set of pistons that are the same size. There is always some difference. I bet .009 is within Wiseco's tolerance range but might want to still check with them. Now you'll always hone to the piston size from now on though.

It's not good. I'd try to get a deep discount out of the guy then have in shaved .030 - .080 depending on what you want and have the domes reshaped.

Some big motors that have had polished side covers have been known to break over time. Some believe that the heat weakens the cover allowing it to crack up by the kick starter. Anytime you heat something, even at at low temp you are making it more brittle.

Baking the cylinders and the clutch cover are bad Ideas. Heat has the ability to WARP things. Everytime I have seen a set of cylinders get coated then baked the bore gets out of round and needs to be fixed. Just go to your hardware stool or industrial supply and get aircraft stripper. Kinda like pait stripper but more TOXIC. BTW the cookie bake off thing was some funny sh!t

Yes it will eat at your finish. Depneds on how long you leave them in and how storng the solvant is. Another thing to think about is that the solvant could get under the chrome if you have some small pitts and once back on the bike it will boil and chrack the chrome. If your terying to clean them use a rag and some acetone. If you want a new Finish you can have them Re-chromed $300.

It really depends on what your buying. Hopefully the set you get will come with tie-rods. You can reroute your brakelines for some appications so you can use your stock one. Otherwise Streamlines run $90. Again depending on the arms you get there are applications to use stock shocks or some that will need long travel shocks. Really that is it. Leager has a T-pin stly that requires a new spindle but this is the High End Stuff.

The rotors are Zinced so it won't effect the pads since zinc is softer and less material then chrome. Chrome chips and casuse material build up if done on rotors.

CHROME JUST LOOKS GOOD

Electrical tape here too :cool:

I hate those shifters with the spring end for you toe. That is a cheap price since those are cheap sifters. Check your PM's

Sides case Covers sure no problem. Cases, could be done but hoesntly I don't tink I would do it. Top case half could turn out nice but the lower half has all those tight spots where it is hard to polish and hard to get chromed. Second, during to steps of the 24 dip process there are two chemicals that do some small etching for the electrolis nickle and chromate to adhear properly. This would be a potential problem to your bearing surfaces. A set of cases would run around $300 - $450 depending on the condition. Cast aluminum does not chrome very nice without a crap load of polish time. IMO - Powdercoat them.

Assuming you have the spin tops and idler screws here is what you do: take all the adustment out of the thumb throttle and unscrew the idle screws out Then on the carb tops use the adjusters and screw them all the way in. Now you have no Tension on the throttle cable or anything holding up the slides. Ideally this is what to do. Unscrew the adjusters on the tops of the carbs untill the slide barely starts to lift on both sides. Now stand back and look to see if the slides are the same height. Which ever side is lower unscrew the adjuste on top of the carb top more. Once even take the slack up at the thumb throttle. Once tight be sure to see if slide move up at same time and rate then start bike and adjust at thumb throttle to make bike idle. DONE If it goes that well then screw in the idle screws part way and use jamb nut to hold them in place. Be sure not to screw them in too far so they interfear with the slide. However if your cable is streached out you may need to use the idle screws to adjust the slide but I would buy a new cable at that point.

Are these stock carbs and do you have the idler screws and the tors removed???? Basicly get teh slides the same height and make sure they go up at the same time when you press on the throttle.

This must be a difference from the West Cost to the East Coast. News to me, of all the bikes I've done or helped with I don't think I ever went that big. well only playing with alky once. I guess you do learn something everyday

Idon't understand PS at all. The Ohtons and I haven't got a long very well. For the biggest problem he thinks it takes $25K - $35K + to run and Maintain a website? (Thats a freaking Joke) Second is he takes product from sponsors for his own personal use then want to start making users pay because the cost are too high. Was a sponsor for the first PS Race, supposed to get t-shirts sweatshits, banner just took the money and got one T-shirt and we weren't included as the sponsor. Paid for the year with product and after 6 months he came asking for money and took out banner down. If he would actually sell the product he recieved for sponsorship or better yet just take money last I calculated he would be around $60K. I'm sorry you were banned from Planetsand. All I can say is who would want to ban the #1 ATV Shock company from their site. You are Great people to work with.

I have a full race port 350cc 200lbs compression on 120 race fuel and run at sea level and I ran 320's. Personally I would think around 300 or 280. He's got 290's which sounds like it works good.

Be sure to check and set all your gaps Including the mag pick-up on the fly wheel.

I guess in the end any little gain can add up just like every little weight saveing can add up. Why waste the money and time just SPRAY NOS lol :beer:

My opinion on it all is as follows: I think it is a bunch of hoopla It might work but I think the atmospheric presure, Tempature, and surfaces have more influence on a motor then any of these things I have brought up. I'm sure in NASCAR research they have come to some conclusions and have had measurable gains, hell they change tire preasure by the PSI, but on a quad it ain't doing to do squat.

Still doesn't help him out anymore though

From Sudco's website they appear to be PWK 28's Website here

It's always worth the discussion. Nothing like trying to make the day go by faster. What about the ide of the Tornado that runs in your cars intake? Why have throttl body spacers for cars? Why a High Rise manifold? Why scoops or Ram air intakes???? Measurable gains on a 350 Cubic In but what about CC's can any of these make a difference? If you take car knowledge and Ideas can you improve the performance on Quads.???? Do you gain anything on a cranker having the air filters in front with the Fuel flowing the opposite way your going? More Velocity? Greg This is directed at you just generalizations.

Every little thing helps throw +4 degrees timing at it, reeds good idea I have ran carbon techs for a long time with no issuse and a lot cheaper then V-force, Seperate K&N Ponds are better then an air box depending on where you ride. (Where are you located?) Again depending on your riding you can have the flywheel lightened too, or switch out to a PVL

I was too but for some reason I thought there was just enough room to squeeze in there. I can look tonight buy by then he should have it all torn apart anyway.

Has anyone looked to see if the reed spacers, if installed between the Cylinder and the reedblock, cause your reeds to hit the inside wall of the intake on the cylinder preventing them from opening all the way? I ask this as I have seen 1/2 and 3/4 spacers being sold and have always wondered. 2 other interesting topics. I have seen a gain by adding some tubing between the air filter and carb much like a 250R intake boot. This is adding more velocity to the air on the intake ans creating less turbulant air around the carb. Could adding a more space between the carb and the reeds allow the fuel to atomize better and allow more fuel through the reeds? Now I know we are talking about slight differences which might not be measureable but it does have some good theory for thought and makes for a good discussion.