Fireroad Express

the 1 hp is only on a stock unmodded engine.

the management at Polymer like to do that. they employ people for just short of three months and fire them before the probationry period is over so they don't have to give the employee a raise and access to employment benefits. if you don't "know" someone or have "connections"there you could very well be a victim. belive me, some poor prick who does,nt know any better has probably taken your place and will have the same thing happen to him in three months. this is a common occurance there, don't take it personally.

mmmm... nun boobs :woot:

here ya go. link. http://www.angelfire.com/extreme2/yambansh...s/pipeinfo.html

i have heard of people polishing the exhaust port to a shiny finish , but not the intake or transfers.

are you sure these are tmx's and not tm's? is the slide completely flat on both sides or is it "D" shaped.if you are looking at the air intake side(the bell end) of the carb the fuel spigot should be on the right side if its a tm carb. the tmx spigot is on the left. check out the mods and carb specs in my sig.keep in mind that the new carbs will flow alot more fuel through them than the stockers because of thier larger size, even with the same jets as the stockers. 360's should be a pretty safe place to start with these carbs. hope this helps.

alot of people like to shit on DG pipes but they are definately better than stock.i heard they do have a few fit and finish issues though. i have never owned a set personaly but there is a pipe comparison on here somewhere that will give hp #s for dg pipes on a unmodified stock motor. use the search option at the top of the page and you may find it.

i've just had bad luck with thier products. i had a zr 900 (snowmobile) that i bought a D&D 1010cc overbore kit for. installed it right to thier specs,tuned it ,clutched it and cursed it.i tried multiple set-ups on this engine and nothing made a difference. i was getting blown off by stock 900s on the lake. after dumping over $3500 plus taxes and shipping, i wasn't happy. i talked to other people that had them and no one was getting real great results out of this kit. about a year later i was reading an article in American Snowmobiler magazine about the annual" trail mod shootout" they have. in the article was featured a 1010 kit. the results in thier drag runs were consistant with mine. slower than stock. i also had a buddy that bought a D&D 1147cc kit for his zr900 and it was also getting waxed by stock sleds as well as some "not so stock "sleds but with lesser mods. maybe D&D has improved on thier quality and customer satisfaction, but they,ve definately seen my last dollar!

no seriously though,if you want reliability, you don't want your bridges this thin! just picture your rings sliding over the intake bridge at 8000rpm. these jugs are not going to last long! they're on the early retirement plan! hobit joke: - bridge is about as thick as a baggins hair

I dont like D&D's junk.very gimmicky stuff. thier sled parts were less than good. stick with a one piece head ,because it,s a more solid and better engineered design.

works like a top! wouldn't go any narrower though.

i run 'em too and have never had a problem. but from the sounds of things, i hope to hell i never do!

^^^^^^as well as a stroker crank with long rods. take a +4mm stroker crank with 115mm rods for example. long rods by them selves aren't really of much benefit. the longer 115mm rods help to offset the extra strain the +4 crank puts on the pistons and cylinders. an engine refered to as a long rod motor may also have a stroker crank. on the other hand there aren't many stroker cranks sold with a stock length rod either!

you may need to go up a size or two on the mains. start rich and go from there. also check for obstructions in the pipes and silencers. did the bike work well before you put the pipes on?

oh yeah, if you do decide to part the bike out, let me know, there's some parts i need.

i got a stock crank here that is in good condition. needs the stator side bearing but thats all. i'll sell it for $75 delivered to truro.

don't be scared to send your stuff stateside. you want a shop with alot experience and knowledge, working on your cylinders.dealing locally is great, but people around here just don't have the knowledge that some of the big U.S. builders have.it's much better to deal with someone who has ported hundreds of cylinders rather than someone who is fairly new at it. get the most for your $$$$s!!! . tell the builder exactly what type of riding you do and they can suggest a complete set-up, right from the carbs to the pipes, that will be well suited to your needs. i sent my stuff to Louie at Twister Cranks and was not disappointed!

there is also a very short window for the anodised part to absorb the dye. this is appox 10-15min .after that the porous anodise layer closes up significantly reducing it's abiltiy to absorb color pigment. if one company is doing the anodizing and shipping it out to another location to get dyed and sealed, the part will not absorb much color pigment if any at all. this would explain the half-assed finishes on some of the r/c car parts. also, with huge runs or batches of parts being done at the same time, the anodisers are probably only putting the parts in the tank long enough to produce a very thin anodise layer . just enough to absorb the color pigment and save on the electricty. alot of power is required to put on or "grow "a layer thick enough to retain the color.

sounds like he runs a pro-stock sled.i think they are getting about 225hp out of an 800cc engine these days.i haven't realy kept up with it since i got out of sled racing a while back. some of the arctic cat dealerships were selling fuel this year. try the "cat shack" in elmsdale. i got a can of 110 from Stone's AC in new glasgow. also there a place in Dieppe, NB that sells VP fuels called G.Bourque.(www.gbourque.com) 506-383-4585

like i said, checking the surface for continuity with a multimeter once you've got the layers stripped, is the only real way to tell if the anodizing is completely gone. no continuity and your anodise layer is still there.

you need resistance or load on the engine to get an accurate reading on the plugs. don't try running it with the rear end jacked up.

to just get rid of the color, the oven cleaner may work very well. just an educted guess on my part, is that the clear anodized layer will still be there. to test this theory take a multimeter and test for continuity on the cleaned surface. if you don't have continuity the layer is still there. trying to get a polished aluminum surface may take quite a while. i suppose it all depends on what you are doing with the parts you want to strip.

anodizing is basically a hardened microscopic film of hollow tubes standing at a 90 degree angle to the surface it is on. the hollow "tubes" suck up dye by capillary action. this how anodize can "take on a color" the part is then put into a boiling tank of sealing solution to keep the dye from seeping back out of the tubes. under a microscope these tubes are shaped like an octagon. i used to anodize a few paintball guns and miscellaneous parts. i'm still waiting for my shop to be finished and my gear is still in storage. i wouldn't even think of seting this up in the house. the electrolyte used in the process is hot hydrochloric acid cut with water. real nasty fumes off this too! it will singe your nose hair. good ventiation is a must!

the stripper is the fastest way to remove an anodized layer. if there happens to be paint or some other coating on the anodized surface, it must be stripped off completely before the anodized piece is placed in the anodize stripping bath. it will strip all the anodizing off except for whats under the paint. what a mess. also try not to breathe in the fumes/mist that rises off the heated stripper solution. trust me, it is bad shit! get a respirator!

if you're gonna ride mainly dunes stick with a dual carb set up. a 2 into 1 has a bit more low end and not as much top end as the duals. my philosophy on the subject is "if it has two pipes, it should have two carbs". you'll find differing opinions on this . as for mods try an adjustable timing plate and bigger carbs. (30mm or bigger,depending on future mod plans).