dynodon

The lip on the snows are thinner. Some say that the snows work better on the bigger motors. I wouldnt know. I will say, I had a set of both and I only have the wedges now.

Hey, If any of you guys are trying to find a way to get that bike shipped, My neighbor who is a truck driver said to post it on " get loaded .com". That where the truckers go to find loads of all sizes to fill any space they can on the trailer. Just a thought. Good luck on the sale, Thats a damn good price. I also know about the Michigan economy, I used to live there too !!!

Get with Troy, he has an excellent port work on stock cylinder guy.

I have a aluminum lowering block. $20 bucks shipped, shoot me a pm with shipping info if ya want it

Well, If you are who I think you are ............ DIET my friend, you are no small order of fries. Neither am I for that matter, but thats not helping you get off the line. Some port work would make a big difference, BUT I would say your pilots are way off. T5`s work well on a stock cylinder bike that has some work done to it. try to drop a tooth in the front too.

Exactly !!! Dan Hull has made a few of them. two years ago he had one at P.S races . Stock cylinder stock carbs with a small turbo, That thing was bad as hell fast, BUT, The tuning NEVER ends with it. I also commend you for accomplishing it, Good job !!!! I just think your gonna find its alot more work in the long run though

Just F.Y.I, Usually you have to send your tranny out to get cut, or for a core. provided that yours are good. There are numberous combo`s to choose from example you can get a 6 speed auto which is more for asphalt racing. BUT just ONE time of letting the tranny slow you down............ ITS been MUNCHED NO GOOD !!!!!! As for the 1-4, or 1-5 that can be either way with or with 5th and or 6th ( clutch needed on 5th or 6th) but not on the 1-4, or 1-5. If asphalt looks to be your thing, a BILLET second gear is a MUST !!! Or you`ll be replacing stuff.

Bansheeman is right !!!! Also, once you do a full drag override, your not supposed to down shift at all until you have slowed down almost to a stop. Where as a trail cut ( maybe the same as a dunable) you can down shift just like a stock tranny. We have a guy down here who has been cutting some trail gears for the MX racers in the north east, they love them. He hasnt had any probs with them at all. They only consist of a 1-4 override, and 5+6 require a clutch use.

fouldout is right also, It could be a number of things on these bikes. You just have to get to know your bike, and how to deal with the minor things. hang in there, most things are usually an easy fix

A bad crank seal could do the samething

The gel type will eat them up, but not regular super glue. The bond breaks once youve torgued the head down. We have never had a problem with pinching, leaks, or them getting eaten up. the glue only holds them in place. To each his own, this is what works for us. I also know builders who do this as well. Mine is still running with no problems

We use super glue to hold the O-rings in place while setting the coolhead on the cylinders. That actually works better than anything else we have tried.

2 quarts, and ebay

I have a Pingle Guzzler on mine, and for the fuel pump.......... Then Iwould have to add a battery the pump etc.etc, I need all the help I can get on the weight end of things. Last week I ran a 4.11 with my big ass on it ( 250+) and that wasnt a clean pass, In and out of the throttle. So something must be working alright. I am just stubborn too I guess. I still run stock ignition too, Buts thats a whole other discussion right ?!!?!LOL

Yeah, NO worries !!! I knew it had to have been a misunderstanding

Exactly right !!! You can still trail ride it even though one side of the float is removed. If thats all he was gonna do is trail ride, then I would just say that billet bowls would give him enough fuel in the carbs to prevent running lean.

Could be out of adjustment. But I want to know if your running motor oil, or tranny fluid in it ??? Mine was doing the same thing, until I changed to type F tranny fluid...... NO MORE lurching forward here

If he is going to be drag racing, YES cut one of the floats off to keep fuel in the carbs. Thats funny, I have billet bowls, and one of the floats cut off in each carb, and mine runs great, infact, I have one of the fastest 421 cubs in the state. You can take that to the bank!!!!!!!!

Jeff called me alittle bit ago, and he is having computer problems. If you need anthing, or parts call his number

The cheap mix may just be a coincidence here. You said that it revs fine in nuetral correct ?? Have you checked the key @ the flywheel ?? That may have sheared off which could run fine without a load, BUT once you put it under a load the flywheel wont turn with the crank. I would check it.

YES, they are nicosil plated, And NO you cannot just hone them, One might say that IF you had a diamond hone, you might be able to, BUT, Is it worth it to try ???? My opinion NO !! have them replated. I know Jeff is home now, so he should respond to the thread. He is local to you and can actually see what the cylinders look like.

I have NEVER !!!!!! sandbagged !!!!!!!!

The distance between the top of the piston to the dome . Call the number I gave you for Jeff, He has his phone with him. Talk to him, he knows I posted his number for you. If no answer, leave him a message. he is close enough, he could make sure your carbs are right as well.

I dont know about the gytr cdi box, BUT a dyna will advance your timing, I think its like +3. So the possibility is there for it to be advanced. I wouldnt run that low of an octane fuel at all. get some good gas for it.

I would say your last option sounds best to me, Because the trees at the 60` mark can be a hairy spot, thats where most bikes are really hooking up, and if your on the wheelie bar all it takes is one rut/ groove for that bar wheel to throw you outta shape.