dawarriorman

you have to save the gear

Listen to what blowit is saying people. Theres a right way to fix this, and a wrong (ghetto way). Sure it might work fine for you, but it is a FACT you won't remove material perfectly even. You're human. Grooves in the basket for a little while longer until you can afford a new basket isn't going to hurt anything. Sure it might be annoying, but thats it. You start filing on the basket, and then there IS a chance you could screw something up. I've heard of it, you have first hand experience from someone else that has seen it happen. Why take a chance? Im sure theres plenty of people that have played russian roulette and lived, but that doesn't mean its safe. Just because something is the quick and easy way to go,doesn't mean its the best course of action. Edit: Half the reason this is a good forum is because people will tell you the right way to do things. Quit trying to talk people into half assing things.

I have shock covers, but I tend to leave them off unless Im going to be riding somewhere that might be muddy or rocky. Rocks can ding the shaft (not that likely though), and will ding the springs. You keep them covered in mud and dirt all the time, and it will wear the seals out faster. If you do get covers, get the neoprene covers. Short answer, you ride on sandy, dry terrain, don't worry about it.

Well, I don't recall having said anything in the other ones, so I'll do it here. ITS A FUCKING APRIL FOOLS ARTICLE YOU TARDS. THERE IS NO NEW BANSHEE BEING MADE. IT WAS ALL THOUGHT UP BY DIRTWHEELS AND PHOTOGRAPHED IN PHOTOSHOP. THE RAPTOR 700 HAS TAKEN THE PLACE OF THE BANSHEE.

Holy shit, what the fuck is this thread? You have a bunch of fucktards (ojcool) in here arguing about cars and the civil war and who knows what else, and somehow they managed to drag firehead into this. Firehead, Give up on these fools, they have no idea what you're talking about, you're speaking above 6th grade level. And any of you stupid fuckers that responds to me, Im not reading this thread again, youre wasting your breath.

Exactly. Or, if she's a girlfriend and you're that pussy whipped that you're going to buy something for her, at least buy it in your name. She can ride it whenever she wants, but she should respect the fact that its your money paying for the really expensive toy. Don't GIVE her anything.

Not sure if the law has changed yet (I doubt it). But you are(were) able to own whatever automatic/suppressed weapon you want so long as you paid the taxes and filled out the forms. No firearms have ever been illegal to own by federal law, they just have put a lot of hoops up to make it a pain. BigRed should know more about it, he has enough guns anyways.

In regards to that second link, Motor octane is motor octane, the same test that VP uses (should use, ASTM) is what 100LL gets 100 in. The other test that is performed on 100LL is in my post in that link. Gasoline that is 100% isooctane (100 octane by definition) would score 100 in that test. 100LL scores 130. Nobody knows what race gas would score, because they don't test race fuel with that test. And as far as race teams using Av gas, I know of quite a few drag racing teams that use 100LL around here. As to why bigger name teams don't use it, I suspect that it isn't enough octane and/or they can't get Shell or BP to sponsor them while they can get VP to sponsor them.

100LL is what I buy, and from what I've found, there aren't different types (brands sure, but they are all 100LL). Jet A is the kerosene. And while it is cheaper, no I don't think the shee needs jet fuel. :biggrin: I've done my homework on this. So far I have not yet come across one single fact that shows AV gas to be a bad choice. All these "additives" people say are put in the gas, nobody ever knows what they are when you ask them. They just know that its been put in the gas, and "its bad cuz its for dem aeroplanes". As far as the big long post up there that says AV gas not compatible with premix, wrong. 100LL will mix fine with pre mix. This will be a debate till the end of time, but like was mentioned, there is no point in using more octane than you need. I don't need anything more than 100 octane, and 100LL is cheaper than anything else thats comparable.

Search, its a little link at the top. This has been discussed over and over and over. Short version, its perfectly fine for your banshee, and its cheaper than race gas. It is lower octane than most race gas (although much higher than pump gas), so make sure you know your fuel needs.

Quad magazine has a poster every month in it. Other than that, I don't know.

Get the outerwears then, it attaches with velcro so its easy to take on and off.

I agree 110%. K&N might flow more air, but they don't filter as well as foam. I've had mud on my filter before, never once found anything in the intake tract. Personally I think Twin Air makes a better filter than the one Pro-design uses (Uni?). But thats probably personal preference.

I've seen a few guys use pantyhose stretched over the airbox. It kept most of the water out, and was very breathable. Personally I just go slow through the muddy sections if I can't find a way around through the trees. Plowing through water just gets me muddy and the shee harder to clean. And it tends to make the carb slides stick (yeah I know I could seal that up easy, but Im lazy). I have no problems with an open airbox, a couple pieces of mud will make it into the airbox, but nothing big. Outerwears does or did make an airbox cover fabric for that purpose, not sure how well it worked though.

thats durhamtown then. Its off of exit 148 on I-20. its between atlanta and augusta.

Get a big enough magnet and you should be able to get ahold of it through the bottom of the case, and drag the magnet (and the drill bit on the inside of the case) towards your new drain hole. And don't work angry next time. :thumbsup:

Well the place I ride at alot nowdays is Durhamtown (www.durhamtown.com ) Probably 2-3 hours from you. I drive 1.5 hours there a couple times a month, and its worth it in my book.

Hydrodynamics arms for a banshee are +2+1

Really, how did you cut them? Did it get hot? Steel is tempered, very specifically. You start heating stuff up a few hundred degrees, and you screw that up. Thats why welds are the weakest part, the welding took the temper out of the steel. You want to go cheap and hack stuff together thats fine with me, go for it. As far as were I am (whoever asked that), Im nowhere near you, and don't really care. I still don't have a-arms yet, cuz Im saving my money. My shocks are valved for +2 arms, and they suck right now unless Im on a track, in which case they feel great. But even then its still not even close to what it will be with a-arms. I've ridden on peoples high dollar setups and I know what it feels like. Combine a-arms from one quad to anothers frame and you have a setup no shock is valved for. No matter what, its not going to be the same. If all of you want to do this fine, but Im telling you, you would be happier saving your money and just waiting.

I didn't say you would notice it. :thumbsup: But anti-freeze does cool worse, it can't transfer as much heat as fast as water.

Sell the shocks, then buy Banshee a-arms and Banshee shocks. You try and hack together a suspension setup, thats all you get - a hack job. There is never going to be a proper or good setup for those shocks on a banshee. Long travel banshee arms are all made for 17.5" shocks from what Ive seen. And all the standard a-arms are made for stock 14.75" shocks. Everybody can keep buying cheap whatever you want, but sooner or later one of you is going to wreck because of a poor suspension setup, or your weakened 450 a-arms that you had to cut down to make fit. I know, "But I don't have money like all you people" . Newsflash, most of us don't have money. Im a full time student working as a cook. Save your money, wait a while, and then get a real suspension setup. You'll be a hundred times happier in the end.

Because in the summer you can mix water with water wetter, and skip the anti-freeze. That will give you the best possible protection, better than engine ice.

14.75" stock :thumbsup:

Exactly. The cub is cheaper and easier, which leaves more money and time for getting the shee set up properly. That makes more of a difference than hp alone. Horsepower is only part of the equation, if your drivetrain and chassis aren't setup right, and the engine isn't tuned right, and the rider doesn't know what he's doing, then the cheetah will lose every time. If you have money to spare, go with the cheetah, if not then go with the cub. Thats the difference you should be looking at, not which one makes more hp.

As far as not being as good, thats all in your head. It does the exact same thing as Engine Ice (they're both surfactants). All it does is lower the surface tension of the coolant. So when you get hotspots that boil off coolant, instead of big bubbles forming that cling to the surface until they get big enough to float away, you have tons of little bubbles that can't cling. Big air bubbles keep water from touching the surface, which means more heat can build up. Engine Ice is a pre-mixed antifreeze/water/surfactant mix. Water Wetter is just the surfactant. You make your own coolant with water wetter.