8buck

Very worth it!!! I swear you can polish 20 miles of aluminum with that stuff and still have enough to do your banshee, it goes a LONG ways. It has a VERY fine abrassive so it looks like chrome when your done. Just BE SURE to use a very soft, very clean cloth or you woun't see it's full potential!

Here's a link I started on a differant site. From what I understand, stock ring gap is not wide enough for a modified motor. The more power you make, the more heat you make. The rings will expand more on a modded motor than they will on a stock one. The gap on my old worn rings was .018", so I filed my new ones to .021" to keep this from happening... http://www.dunereview.com/forums/index.php...st=0#entry27988 Good idea???

Rich for sure!

Stock bore/stroke, 18cc domes, +4 timing, 5000ft, 91 octane. I usually mix 110 and 91 50/50 but I can't get any 110 for this weekend, plus, I would like to just not buy it anymore.

I was going to make this a poll but there are to many out there I've never heard of. I'm polishing ALL my aluminum with buffing wheels and compund. It's all been polished before so I'm starting with the white compound, then, with a differant wheel, the red jewlers rouge. It looks KICK ASS but now I need a VERY GOOD, VERY NON-ABRASIVE hand polish to finish it off and help seal the aluminum. What should I buy???

Any idea how hot the pipes, right off the motor, should be at an idle, and how about after a good wot run? I know they will be hotter lean and cooler rich but I wonder if there is an ideal temp. I've done the whole plug chop thing and they look great, but, if one is a LITTLE off from the other I should be able to tell from the exhaust temps (one pipe a bit hotter than the other) and dial them in to match, correct? PS: I have Power Jets to tweek the top end.

Tried it, not free.

I need to do a background check on a few people but I don't really want to pay the $50 or so a piece all the web sites are asking for. Is there a site out there that's free? You would think being public records there would be a place to find that stuff free of charge.

This might help ya out a little... http://www.dunereview.com/electricalupgrade-1.htm

http://www.zoopseal.com/zoopseal.asp

Here's one that I've refered to a few times... http://www.dunereview.com/rebuild.htm

This might be of some use... Approximate Cranking Compression These pressures are estimates based on fresh stock bore, piston, porting, and deck height. It is recommended to check your compression after installation. Sea Level 1000' 2000' 3000' 4000' 5000' 18cc 197....178...171...170..165...145 19cc 183....167...160...158..152...137 20cc 169....156...149...146..140...129 21cc 156....145...138...134..128...121 stock130....125...118...112..106...100

$100-150k would be sweet! ALL labor would be done by me, my family and friends from the ground up.

Like mnduner said earlier, a lot of businesses have cameras on their buildings that have a view of the street. If it was stolen at an intersection, stop at the buisnesses in all four directions and ask if they have something like that. You never know, you might at least see what they were driving. I've been there man, but we lucked out and found our shit. I'll almost bet you it's some local punks! Good luck!!!

This is a VERY generalized question! What would be the AVERAGE cost for materials only, to build a Ranch style house, from the foundation to the last light fixture, nothing fancy, around 2000 sq/ft and in a rural area?

Lot of smoke or more than normal?

It's just a safety thing in case your carbs stick open. No change in power, woun't hurt the motor. V-Force more power, yes, worth the money, depends on your mods. I've heard of 6 hp gains on ported and piped Banshees!

How does it need to be adjusted? Yes, I know with a screwdriver , but how do I know when it is right? The adjustment stud inside pushrod #2 that is.

$10 You can get one right there at the dunes. The Pit Stop sells them at the Egin Lake/BLM campground.

I'll be there with the buddies! I'll be on this...

That can't be right. What I was doing was holding in the clutch while going down a big hill while going fast. I take it that must be a bad thing cause that's EXACTLY what I was doing!

Well... WELDED!!! So what causes this? The ball is welded to the pushrod, the push lever is tore up and so is the end of the adjustment stud (not pictured) I ran all last year with no probs and I wasn't doing anything out of the ordinary when this happened. One more thing, I tipped the quad on it's side and the rod just slid out. Granted, it is all screwed up, but if the rod still moved freely then why did the clutch stop working (disengaging)?

Well, you would gain a little, but it would be VERY little, you wouldn't even feel it. If you only bore one or two sizes up it is usually just to remove taper or scaring from the cylinder walls NOT to gain power. Now if you went with a "big bore" kit, that's a whole differant story.

I agree, don't bore unless you have too!