2003LimitedBanshee

That does seem a little big... I've felt on the big end of things with my jetting, but you're several sizes above me. But as you pointed out, every bike is different; just look at a couple sets of "stock" cylinders, you'd probably be surprised at the differences you would find. If you've checked, rechecked and triple checked for leaks, it runs good, then have fun! Chop looks good, even and nice color. I jet my bike how it looks best and runs the best, opinions and "norms" don't jet my bike... Run it!

This not really true... You only need just "that much" oil, basically just enough to keep everything lubricated and spinning freely. I run Golden Spectro at 50:1, have done so for as long as I've owned this bike, 4+ years and it still kicks over with every bit as much compression. Oil does not make horsepower, it just allows for horsepower to be made easier (through being better lubricated), but like octane, once you have enough, additional does nothing for you. AKheathen makes a good point, if you are getting enough oil @ 32:1 on 200 mains, when you increase jet sizes you get more fuel and oil. Now, you may need a marginally increased amount of oil for the additional mods that required you to increase jetting that much, but you would be able to decrease the mix of the oil and still achieve the same amount of oil. Hope that makes sense...

The head is definitely worth the money! Look at it this way, you can shave a stock head, but then when you port, you would need to shave it more to keep the same compression. With a coolhead you could simply swap out domes. You also run the possibility of squish issues when shaving the stock head beyond a certain point. To keep it simple this will affect the burn within the cylinder. I'm sure Jeff and pretty much any of the sponsors will have adjustable timing plates. My opinion, I went with a Ricky Stator, cast plate; I couldn't see twice the money for a billet timing plate. On some of your earlier questions, on a stock port, I noticed a big bump from Boyeson reeds up to VF3's, big difference in throttle response!

I have a few sets of spacers left out of this production run. PM if you're interested and we can set everything up. I just got a set of orange arms in, which still need to be modded, but could be ready within a couple of days. I'm also still modifying arms if anyone out there has them and would rather I use my jigs to do the mods. Thanks! - Brian

This is the age old debate and WHO really knows? I have one, plenty of people don't. I've been running one for four seasons, no issues at all. I would say proper installation, i.e. is it fully seated, and good maintenance on your bike are going to keep you from cracking the intake boots. If the bike sits out in the sun, gets coated with carb cleaner because of reckless "cleaning" etc. I'd be much more worried about the intake boots. The intake cracking argument is to me, like my four stroke buddies who say you have to rebuild a banshee every season; I must be the exception to the norm as far as luck, or there are other factors playing in?

I know I'm going to get lambasted here, because I've always seemed to run more paddles than anyone else, but... I ran regular 8 paddle haulers up until the end of last season when I got 9 paddle extremes. I got the 9's because I am working over a set of cylinders right now, but I am running them on my stock cylinders right now. Now, when I'm dragging I can't launch in 2nd and it is a definite handful on big climbs on the stock arm, but a lot can be said for gearing and body position on the bike. Personally, I would run a minimum of 8 paddle extremes, but like I said, I seem to run way more paddles than most for whatever reason. :shrug:

Okay, so I have a dumb question that I'm sure someone has a quick answer to. To clarify, I don't have my bike, pipes or clamps right in front of me, but I just picked up some TM DesignWorks pipe collars to replace the Cascade clamps I'm not happy with anymore. There is a larger diameter with one or two larger o-rings and a smaller diameter with 3 or so o-rings. Does the larger or smaller diameter go towards the front? i.e. which diameter on the stinger and which diameter on the pipe itself. If my visual memory picture is right, I'm guessing the larger diameter is on the pipe, with the smaller on the stinger? Thanks! - Brian

I have two totally complete stock airboxes, w/lid, stock filter, snorkels and carb boots. These were taken off when we did pipes and filters several years ago. Been sitting around, unmolested, factory stock. $55 EACH, shipped to lower 48 via USPS Priority Mail. Oh yeah, I have 450 suspension conversion parts and kits too... Thanks! - Brian EDIT: Will try to get pics uploaded later this evening or tomorrow.

A little confused by this post. No, if you upgraded pipes, filter etc. you will need to rejet your carbs, NOT simply change out needles. Needles or sometimes referred to as metering rods. Their purpose is to make the smooth transition through the middle RPM range and meter in the main jet until you are at WOT. Needles can vary in length, diameter, taper etc. all of which serve different purposes. A longer, more gradual taper needle will take more throttle before allowing the main jet to flow fully. A blunt, shorter needle will provide a more abrupt transition to WOT. IMO a longer more tapered needle allows me to really dial in the mid-RPM range and provide a strong pull from just of idle up to WOT.

Powerstroke makes a good point. It all depends on what kind of riding you do. I ride exclusively in the sand with the Toomey 2:1 and it works great. But, as mentioned, if you ride in the water/mud it's going to present problems.

The lower joints on the YFZ450 arms are pressed in, so those could certainly be removed and done traditionally. I had not heard of the UV option, so that could very well work for the upper arms.

450 A-arm conversion spacers are available again. Price is $55 shipped to any lower 48 state. Will also have two complete A-arm kits available; one in silver, one in orange. Not sure at this time if I will have shocks available or not. Thanks! - Brian

Spacers are in and ready to ship out via USPS Priority Mail. Final cost on spacers is $55 shipped to any location in continental US. Sredish, will also have two complete A-arm kits available; one in silver one in orange. I'm not completely sure yet if I will have shocks to go with these kits at this time or not.

Okay, I will have spacer/sleeves ready to go by Thursday, I have a complete set of A-arms, a second set on the way that will need to be modified once I get them, one silver set, one orange set. I may also have a line on a set of shocks and may possibly be putting my 2007 SE shocks with H/L speed compression adjustment up for sale also.

A chipped reed should actually serve to lower your compression. On compression the reeds get "pushed" closed, think of it as the intake valves on your car or 4-stroke. So, if you have a valve hanging open, or chipped, you will not be able to develop the same compression as if you were completely sealed. There is so much debate about dome size and compression. I have a Snap-On compression tester that I trust religiously and I have not kicked below 170 on cold cylinders with 20cc domes at 1982 feet elevation. As far as gas goes, I would recommend mixing also. I ran a mix of Trick race gas and premium for quite a while, ran straight Trick last year because I could buy Trick for within a dollar of premium when I bought it buy the 55 gal. drum.

I'm going to go with probably not. The A-arms from everything I have read, will NOT switch over to the non "R" 450's, which would lead me to believe they will not switch over to the frount of the Banshee. NOw, that isn't to say that it might not be able to be worked out, but it would almost certainly involve much more modification. Not too mention, as I think was said in here, it would probably be un-godly wide. The new 450R track width is almost 50" and that is on a frame width that is near 250R for the front suspension mounting area. Couple that with our comparitively very wide front frame and you'd have a monster width change, probably much wider than desirable. I would guess it to be on the order of +3 possibly +4, PER SIDE. Now, the 450R shocks on the other hand...?

The overall width ends up being approx 4.25" to 4.50" wider than the stock suspension. I say approx because I have just done the line of sight with the tape measure, but I am confident I have it to within that 1/4" measurement. Thanks for the nod Peter, as you may or may not know I am starting back supplying the parts for this conversion. Thanks! - Brian

Spacer/sleeves should be available and ready to ship by mid-week next week. I should also have one complete set of A-arms, could package with NOSS 7075 tie rods as well (specific for the conversion). A-arms are silver, do not have shocks at this time. Working on getting more core parts to build complete A-arm kits from. I know there have to be some budget minded people out there right now; I will also do the modification to your arms using my jigs if you want to locate your own core parts. Thanks! - Brian

Everyone always gets into the T6 vs T5 debate and ported vs non-ported. Toomey themselves will tell you that on a stock engine (stock port) the T6 makes the most power, but they recommend the T5 for ported engines. Now this isn't to say that you can't port to a configuration that will work well with the T6's, but that there is a greater potential for peak power if you have a bike ported to compliment the T5's.

Because it's relevant to ask. All K&T done cylinders have their marking on them and if they are K&T cylinders it justifies a higher price, plus it separates the legitimate product from not. I'm looking around for a spare set of cylinders to play with and if I was thinking of buying I would want to know. If they are K&T cylinders, showing their signature should help to sell, if they don't have the marking, it speaks on credibility. Not saying this seller doesn't have the credibility, just saying it IS relevant.

You have to think about it in regards to TDC of the piston and when you are "telling" the ignition to fire. You also have to consider the RPM of the engine and the time it takes for the burn cycle to start and how long it takes to fully burn (fire). By advancing the timing, you are actually firing the cylinder just before the piston reaches top dead center and in theory the fuel/air mix is expanding at it's greatest rate just after TDC. Thus you really get the bottom end impact from the burn taking place when it has the most effect on the crankshaft rotation. By firing just before TDC you do limit some of the type end RPM potential of the engine as you are actually causes resistance to the piston as it approaches TDC. By retarding the timing you fire the cylinder after the piston reaches TDC, this does not have the resisting impact on the piston and helps to accelerate the piston later in the crankshaft rotation. This is what leads to your top end emphasis. Hopefully that overview helps out.

Sounds great! I should know about the spacer/sleeves within the next day or two. I'll try to keep both the Suspension and For Sale forum postings updated with all the current info. Thanks again everyone! - Brian

It is looking like the price on just the spacers is going to go up very slightly to $55 shipped to the lower 48 states. I am still going to offer my modification service where I would modify your lower arms (which you ship to me), modify the bushings, install my spacer/sleeves and cover the ground UPS freight back to you. I was doing that service for $125 total. I am trying to come up with core parts right now for the complete swap, shocks being the harder find still. But it is looking like A-arm kits (no shocks yet) are going to be right around $265. At that price you would need to supply shocks and tie rods are still up in the air. I may be able to provide tie rods also, but that is not for sure yet. Thanks for all the interest, I'm getting PM's right and left, so thank you! - Brian

Wow, I can't believe this thread is still so close to the top. In case you missed my update in the Suspension section, I am back around the HQ. I have spacers in the works and possibly tie rods for the swap also. All of these parts are made from 7075 alloy, which means they are tough as you can handle. Does this mean they are a little more expensive than options I've seen, slightly yes, but trust me, you will never have to replcae them! I have been running this swap for two years now and the parts show no wear at all. The price on the spacers was $50 shipped prior and will be very close to that; shipping is still getting worked out, but shouldn't change much at all IF ANY. I'm kind of jumping right back in to this after a hiatus of more than a year so forgive me, but I believe I actually have a complete swap in the box and ready to go once I get spacers in. Spacers are probably less than two weeks out at this point.

Sredish, yes I do still have my jigs, I actually dug them out and dusted them off just the other day. Essentially what you are doing is trimming the A-arm mounting tube on the rear of the rear cross tube and the front of the front cross tube. If you check out the close up pics of at the beginning of the post, or in the quoted reply on page 8, the last two pictures in the sequence show what I am trying to explain. Essentially the YFZ450 A-arm is slightly too wide for the stock frame mounts on the banshee, but by trimming the "outside" of each mount (on the A-arm) the 450 arms will fit within the frame mount dimensions. But, this leaves a gap where the inner cross tubes are not supported by the frame mount. Without this support, it would be possible for A-arm to be flexed, at least in theory. The spacer/sleeve I designed replaces the inner steel sleeve of the stock design and incorporates the spacer that will properly support the A-arm. In my modification I also modify the stock bushing in the A-arm so that the grease zerk isn't blocked by the stock spacer and it can still be properly greased. The 450 A-arms will work just fine with the stock banshee spindles. If at some point you went with different shocks (i.e. longer shocks than the stockers from the 450) the banshee spindle design will limit the travel downwards of the a-arms, they will bind. However, if you do not switch to different shocks or if you do but you also add 450 spindles you will eliminate this problem. The stock 450 tie rods will barely, BARELY work, but I would recommend going with an aftermarket tie rod. I may be able to resume offering the tie rods in addition to the spacers shortly as well. Hopefully I've answered some lingering questions, but please feel free to shoot them out here and I will do my best to answer them promptly. That is one thing I pride myself on. I think you will find anyone you ask who purchased parts from me in the past always got their parts fast and always received good communication through the process. Thanks for the continued interest!!!! - Brian