2003LimitedBanshee

No I don't. What collet did you order it with and what size carbide are you using? I think you could get 1/8" or 3/32" if I remember right? If you are looking close, is the collet itself that is moving in the head, or the carbide burr within the collet? Also, the head of the 1MC can be completely disassembled and replaced. Is it completed seated? The wrenches you got with it will assemble/disassemble the head, so you should be able to check it out.

I would think that the piggybacks would be the same as well, too much production cost otherwise. Also, volfan, I work for a small area credit union, in our collections department as it would be, trying to reconfigure peoples loans so they can repay (no, I'm not the repo guy!). IMO, the bank lent him the money to buy the quad in good faith. Now, I work with people all the time who are unfortunate victims of the economy in general (i.e. not necessarily their fault), but is it really right to stick it to the bank in this case? Your friend may not be able to pay the loan out of no fault of his own, but is it really the banks fault either? Hopefully I don't start a political shit storm here...

You got the heat range numbers right, but the plugs don't really burn holes in the piston. Rather, in a hotter plug you have a broader insulator body, which retains more heat (hotter) and can lead to preignition or worse detonation, which could lead to what you were referencing. Because of my compression and timing, I run BR9ES plugs to make sure. Colder plugs will be less forgiving and more likely to foul if your jetting is off.

Covered quite a bit in the suspension forum, but in short, a-arms are essentially +2 +1 as compared to the stock suspension. Shocks are much more adjustable than the stock banshee shocks; especially the SE shocks. Ryan, I ran a set of SE shocks for about a year and a half and was very happy with them, before switching to YFZ450R shocks. As mentioned, you won't find them much cheaper than the $300. People are a little resistant to the price compared to regular YFZ shocks, but that is what people are willing to pay (i.e. fair, going price), so it's just an adjustment. You should like them!

Raptor 700 a-arms are the same as YFZ450 a-arms, so the arms could be converted just the same to your banshee as the 450 arms (they're the same). However, your a-arms will not bolt back up to his quad, so he won't have a front end to repo. I don't know eye-to-eye on the raptors vs. YFZ450, but I think maybe that swap was versus stock banshee shocks?

Personally, I wouldn't feel comfortable running that small of a dome with +5* timing on 91 octane. I run 20cc domes with +4* at 1900' I'm siiting with a pretty high compression, so I run race fuel. Just my $.02

Not to steal business from Kevin, but you can also get cast ones for just over $30. Heck, Kevin or the other sponsors probably have those too. No reason to spend extra money for the billet, no real need. As mentioned, airbox mods are cheap and give you some more air. Mow some lawns and try to save up a little bit of money for some used pipes!

So, not to be a jerk, but really the only power add-on you mentioned is the cool head. Boring for added displacement adds minimal power at best, probably nothing you are even going to feel. If by "racing pistons" you mean Wiseco's or something, you will get some added longevity, but again, no huge performance gain. Coolhead yes, but look elsewhere for added power compared to the other recommendations.

If you have pulled the cylinders, any pics of transfers etc.?

I'm planning on hopefully making some pulls tomorrow with my stock cylinders, then I'm going to be pulling them off. But, before I pull them, I think I want to mark them out for a more aggressive port timing than the cylinders I'm finishing off (Going back over exhaust now, to polish up a bit more). I was thinking something like 194* ED with either 129* or 130* TD. This set of cylinders would be more for a set of CPI's and some bigger carbs, plus probably even smaller domes, maybe 16's? It will be strictly a duner, with of course some recreational dragging. I'm really in to hill climbs and holeshots though, so I want to keep some good pull in the midrange too. Any thoughts out there from people with experience, who care/willing to share?

On a stock port, you're going to need a mix of race gas at the least, unless you are at a significant elevation.

So are we $300 shipped?

I need a little more info on the pipes. CPI stamping on inside or outside? Hangers all intact? Silencers and everything, or just head pipes? Very interested!

Okay, I get what you're saying. Move that back wall farther back and the airflow has to "bend" even farther back to make the run down; makes sense! You must have some background in porting based on your post? Not trying to offend, if you do a lot of work and I don't know, sorry... How about the earlier comment about needing to take more out of my exhaust. Ideas/opinions?

Trying to make sure we are talking the same line here. I'm not planning to change the aux transfer port window any, just the runner. I.e. the track coming from the base of the cylinders leading up to the actual port window.

So I'm retarded, I'm only running 127* transfer duration, giving me 30.5* blowdown. Sorry for the mixup! :shoothead:

HAHA, beat loco!!!! :beer: :biggrin:

Basically any of the site sponsors should have pullers or if you have a local Yamaha shop you should be able to get it there too. As mentioned, a coolhead will allow you to swap out the domes to change your compression. As loco said, be aware, you start bumping compression up and your timing and you're going to start getting into race fuel territory. I run 20cc domes on my stock port cylinders and +4 timing and I run Trick race fuel; I probably don't need 100%, but buying it by the 55 gal drum, I can get it close enough to premium that it would cost me more to drive to the station to mix it with the race gas, so I run it straight.

Seriously!

Yes, the stator does attach to the timing plate, but your stator comes off the stock timing plate, so you DO NOT have to replace your stator. Just be certain to use a little blue loctite when reattaching your stator to the timing plate. As far as what it does, it is altering the timing advance obviously, but in short +4 is the common timing change people make, which helps to bring in some bottom end pull. As porting (port timing) and pipes get more aggressive (top end wise) you can start adding more timing. Just keep in mind, compression, timing, etc. are going to play into your fuel ocatne requirements. With +4, depending on compression etc you would still most likely be okay on premium, compression being the more critical component. For the really techy out there, yes I know BMEP is the true way to calculate octane requirements, but I've been really trying to learn that concept and it's still difficult to conceptualize, so compression is the easiest to relate. EDIT: Wow, slow on the typing I guess. No one had responded when I started typing.

These pictures should give you a better idea of how the transfer port runners were finished off. Sorry for the confusion caused by the old pic, but I definitely would not have left those runners looking like they did in the timing picture up above. Hopefully these should give you a better idea of the extent to which I worked the transfer runners over: What does anyone think about moving the back wall of the aux transfers back? I.e. wrapping the cut-away farther around the cylinder towards the intake to open that runner up? Oh, and XxMeltIcexX had said to take more out of the exhaust, where at? The timing is about as aggressive as I want to get it with my current setup and I'm at 69.xxx% width:bore ratio? Do you mean farther down the port, towards the "nipple"? I was hesitant to hog that out too much because I didn't want to compromise my exhaust velocity? Am I screwed up here?

Thanks again... Yeah, the specs were recommended to me as a dune port spec. But it does have 30* of blowdown to help compensate for the increase in the exhaust port duration and bring some bottom end back. Again, the specs were not of my genius, Dan Wade recommended them to me, including te boost port timing. His theory was that it helped with scavenging in the top end of the cylinder. Hopefully next week I will have dyno numbers to put these theories to the test. Yes, degree wheeled for timing. I'm going to mark my current cylinders right before I pull them off, for an even more aggressive dune port, to pair up with some CPI's and bigger carbs. Just need some CPI's now...?

In that last pic of the transfers, that was actually early on in the cutting, that was just the only picture I had that showed the change in timing easily. I've since gone back and worked over the transfers from tons of angles. It was weird, just when I thought I couldn't get to some part, I'd rotate the cylinder and see a new way in. The transfers were worked from the base with some long burrs, with the 90* 1 MC, and with my Foredom #30 handpiece and various 1/8" burrs from the top of the cylinders. I'll take some better pics looking down the transfers from some of the same angles to see how the pass review, but I didn't give myself a good representation of the end product with those pics. The exhaust was only finished off with 200 grit; you know I wasn't sure. I've heard mixed reviews about how extensively it really needs to be sanded/polished. It'll be easy enough to jump back in and polish a bit more.

More duration you mean, or wider still with the exhaust? I'm just short of 70% bore:width