2003LimitedBanshee

So you are going to be running the YFZ450R shocks, not honda 450r right? If so, you will absolutely have to run the YFZ spnidles and hubs. The Banshee spindle will not allow enough travel to accomodate the added length of the 450R (Yamaha) shocks. So far I am happy with my 450R shocks that I installed several weeks ago. As a side not, I would consider running longer brake lines. I am going to be upgrading mine soon, as the added height and travel, make the stock lines on the verge of too short. I posted a topic a while back that covered my swap and several of the catch points to watch out for.

I think everyone will echo this sentiment, a dremel will not work for what you are wanting to do. I suppose with enough time and enough front bearings for your Dremel, you might be able to make a little progress. I have said this to pretty much anyone I get the chance to, you will spend more buying the right tools than you will to have your engine ported. If you want to go down that road, more power to you, I did, but I invested way more into tools than the most exotic (okay you can prob think of something more exotic) of stock cylinder port jobs would have cost at any of the known sources. EDIT: Oh yeah, I don't recommend nad polishing either. Just my $.02

Point A to Point B, do not measure along the radius, you will have a much larger number that way.

Sorry to disappoint. But, I can tell you that having the carbs on and off is just a fact of life. When I was getting my bike set up the first time, I had the carbs off more times than I could count. Jetting, rejetting, changing needle positions, changing pilots. Then, I got it all dialed in and didn't hardly mess with it. Now, I've just ported my cylinders, so I'm getting ready to start over. I expect to pull the carbs or make adjustments at least a half dozen times. It's all about getting it right and it just takes time.

The missing anodizing shouldn't make anything like what you are describing. Mine have been used to the point that you are describing with no side effects. Based on the mods you just completed and what you are describing, I still think you are dealing with a dirty set of carbs. If you can actually here the noise coming from the slides this makes me believe it even more. The slides still move correct, just slower? How dramatically slower? When I did mine, I completely stripped my carbs and cleaned everything with B-12 Chemtool. You woulld be amazed how little grit can make a difference and where that grit can get to. I pulled all the jets on mine, and sprayed and blew from every direction imaginable. I'm still sticking with my original diagnosis.

I've only just ported my first set of cylinders, change timings and all of that, so I am SO FAR from having a minimal understanding of the porting process, BUT... I would think you would see some gains from a "cleanup port". Even if you just worked over the intakes to improve the flow into the cylinder, it can't hurt anything. By knifing the divider and taking the step out of the roof of the intake, it has to help. As for widening the exhaust, I don't know. Again, coming back into flow, I don't know the flow capabilities of the stock exhaust port. In theory the risk of unnecessarily widening the exhaust port is that you will decrease the exhaust gas speed and potentially not empty the cylinder as effectively. Now, the stock cylinders might not be able to empty effectively enough through the stock width port. In that case it should help. There are a lot of people out there who have years of knowledge over me, and probably much better opinions/advice. Hopefully they chime in!

Sounds to me that is is VERY likely, you just didn't get every last spec of metal out of it when you were doing your TORS elim kit. That would be my absolute #1, bet the farm speculation. I would pull those carbs immediately and clean them again, way thoroughly!

You probably did, but just to make sure you caugt his recommendation, since the devil is in the details. You asked about EXTENDING the swingarm, savage's recommendation was to go stock length or SHORTER by 1-2 inches. Shorter is what most all the trail/MX guys seem to go with, to get better hook. Again, you probably caught that, but just wanted to clarify since the GOOD advice was actually opposite of what you were originally talking about doing.

First as was mentioned you have to find Top Dead Center. To do this accurately, you need a dial indicator, you have to bring the piston near top dead center, bring the dial indicator into contact with the piston and then you slowly continue to rotate the crankshaft. As the piston passes TDC the dial indicator will "stop" moving. This is TDC. The port timings mentioned are port durations, that is, how many degrees of rotation the port is open. So, to figure out the timings for cutting you take 360* - (desired duration) = X Then you take X and divide it by 2. This is the degrees of rotation after TDC that the specific port should be opening. This calculation assumes that you are only raising your port timings. Strokers and such could potentially be opening up the port in both directions. I agree with sheerider, those sound like VERY aggressive port timings. CPI's are designed as a more top end setup, so they should accomodate those timings better than some other pipes. For the record, for anyone out there, expect to spend more on tools than paying most any builder for doing the work. I have about $550 into tools at the moment, which would cover me for a decent port job, bore/hone and most of the way towards some wiseco's too. But for me, I just prefer to do the work myself.

Yeah, in fact it is difficult on the pavement to KEEP the front end down if you jump on the throttle. I wasn't even going to full throttle, maybe 3/4 at the most and it would pull the front right off the ground up through 4th, didn't try fifth yet. Okay, well maybe I'll push a little more towards full throttle then and see how it seems to like it. Going to go blast up and down the road right now, as a matter of fact!

Sort of like the title says, looking for a set of cases that I can use as a test bed for degreeing cylinders for porting. That means, busted chain sections etc are okay. As long as it will hold a crank properly and will accept cylinders like normal then I think it should work. Going to be honest, not looking to spend a bunch, just a shortcut idea I have. Cranks too? Thanks! - Brian

Well, because I don't have my jetting where I am comfortable with it yet, I haven't tested the top end pull yet or run it up through all the gears to the top. Really, all I've had it up through right now is the midrange. Like I mentioned at the first of the post, I was recommended the specs by a well known builder, why he gave them to me, I'm still not really sure. The specs were recommended to me based on my question about a dune port with my pipes and other build specifics. The exhaust timing is way radical, but it is increased a fair amount from stock, which gives it more top end emphasis, but the blowdown timing is still very reasonable at 30.5*, so that helps the bottom/midrange. So, if that makes it all around or more top end, I guess I would say good all around power, but it should pull strong on top too... I am going to bump up my mains and get the jetting close to right and then I found another local place to make some dyno pulls. Those curves should give a better representation of the power and delivery. Seat of the pants dyno, this thing frickin' RIPS now!!! The jetting seems close, but I have not done a plug check yet. Blast up to almost 3/4 throttle were very crisp and I didn't experience any hanging RPM's when I let off, so it doesn't exhibit a "classic" lean characteristic. Thanks for the words of encouragement, this is definitely going to be an addicting habit, working over cylinders. I think I want to pick up a set of junk cases and maybe an old crank assembly that I could use for degreeing stuff in. Anyone out there have some stuff that I could use as a test bed for degreeing my port timings and stuff??? :biggrin: This would make it a lot nicer, instead of having to tear my personal bike down... Darth, I'm definitely up for seeing if we can make something work for you! Man I'm torn, I want to ride this thing more, but I'm also looking forward to trying out the next set of cylinders. What a blast!

Alright, all I can say is HOLY CRAP!!! I did a couple of heat cycles on the thing and then took it for a couple 3/4 throttle or so blasts, never made it to full throttle. On the stock swingarm, WAY TOO SHORT!!!!!! The other concern was the jetting; it never seemed to hesitate, so I was hesitant to blast it full throttle and have something go disasterously wrong on the first ride. I know this isn't the jetting forum, but what are people running on average on a "dune" port? I've got 360's in it right now, still on a stock pilot, which I think I will bump up. It's still in the shake down phase for sure, but so far, I've got a huge smile on my face!

If you have access, I would recommend a drill press. When I converted mine over, I used my drill press and just set the stop; this made sure I couldn't drill through the other side if I wanted to. Good advice on the tapping oil as well. Like was mentioned, in most all cases I'm aware of, the instructions that go along with the kits are very good. As is anything when you're working on your quad, just take your time and it should come out fine!

It runs!!!! But I only got to fire it up and run it long enough to seat the rings. :: Something about the girlfriend didn't get to see me much this week, which severly cut into my quad time this evening... But, it fired right up after 3 good kicks (carbs were dry etc.) and idled just fine, once I was satisfied the rings were seated and I let it idle down. NO, I didn't just spin it way up at first, or at all for that matter. Once again, didn't get to ride it to see what I thought. Tonight was even a little more punishment, because I had it running and everything. IT WILL BE RUNNING (on the road) TOMORROW NIGHT THOUGH! Get out of fire academy at 5:30 and it's going to be the first thing I do right after. Have to swap my dirt tires on and heat cycle it a couple times back and forth between a buddy's house about 1/2 mile up the road. Then I'm going to let it rip!!! I threw some 360 mains in it just to be safe for now; once I've got it heat cycled and ready to rip, I'll start messing with the jetting. Sounded a bit different on firing it up. A little more poppy and just a "different" exhaust note; fired right back up on one easy kick after it was lukewarm idling.

Well I should be able to take it out for a spin tomorrow evening!! Got everything all buttoned up except for the tank. I had to stop there because if I put that on there was going to be no stopping me from starting it up and I didn't figure anyone was going to appreciate my work at this hour! Ha! Got some more pics as progress was made, will post tomorrow. God I can't wait to try this thing out!!!

You definitely want to step torque them. I actually start at 10->15->20, just to be safe. To be honest, I haven't looked in my clymer's on torque specs in forever, but I thought it did mention stepping them. Either way, I would say anyone who should be giving you advice, should be telling you to step them. Think about it like your wheels, only 1000% more critical. You wouldn't have all your lugnuts loose and just crank one all the way down without at least tightening up the others right?

Well I paid a pretty penny for mine, $400 to my door off eBay. You will need 450 spindles at the least. I swapped spindles/hubs/rotors just because I had a preassembled setup sitting around. I haven't had a chance to ride on them yet because I decided to port and swap over a set of cylinders. Doing the port work myself has just taken a little longer, so I haven't ridden them yet, but I have high expectations.

Well if I can get some school tests out of the way tonight, I'm hoping to put a quick hone on the cylinders just to break the glaze. I picked up a set of 64mm Wiseco's which right now have about .0025" clearance to the cylinder wall, .003" recommended; so, with just a light honing they should be within spec. If that goes well, I should be running by this weekend. I have a set of 19cc domes that I'm going to put in there to start with; also picked up some 360 mains to start out with on my jetting. A respected local builder in my area said he didn't like to exceed 165 psi for compression, but I'm going to start with the 19's and go smaller depending on what it feels like. I'm also going to bump up to +5 or maybe +6 on my timing. I considered running it with the stock pistons, but I decided I would be real disappointed to scatter it right after I got done building it, thus the wiseco's.

Jetting is almost certainly the issue, but need more information about "how" it bogs, where in the throttle it bogs etc. to tell for sure. It could also be spark related, due to the heavier load when trying to climb a hill. But, like said, need more in depth info to tell for sure.

Guys who are buidling big time motors do use egt sensors to help with the tuning/running process. As for your earlier post, over-rev is going to come in to play with banshees more so than on cars, even fast-revving imports. Over-rev basically references your power curve not falling off a cliff once it passes peak hp, since you are likely to miss peak rpm on some shifts.

No, you don't have to use left hand at all with the #1 MC. Just I guess in some spaces being able to use a left hand carbide will make it nicer, make the tool less likely to grab and try to "run" in the port. If you are going to use left hand carbide, you have to turn the burr the opposite direction, so the only way to achieve this is to have the burr coming out the opposite side. There has to be something going on here. When you ordered the replacement, did they ask you again what size collet you wanted. Something has to be going on here. Back when I bought my #1 MC everyone was telling me that was the only handpiece to buy, mine works awesome, and up until now I'd never heard of anyone having a faulty issue. I tried snapping some pics of mine tonight, but my stooooopidddd photobucket won't pick them up from my phone! Let's see a pic, maybe we can see what's going on? Hopefully I will throw my freshly ported cylinders on tomorrow night. The Yamaha shop wanted $70 for a pull on the dyno and it was a two week wait. I KNOW they are NOT that busy, WTF! So, everyone should have an idea what T5's and other bolt on's add up to, so my after numbers should be good enough. Cylinders mic'd out fine, so just going to throw a quick hone on them and run with the stock pistons for a quick go, but then going to pull and have them honed and get a set of wiseco's in there to hold up to the revs.

I can't imagine not needing to run race fuel with those domes and that much timing. I run 20cc domes in my head and at 1900' I have just over 170 psi in each cylinder, coupled with the +4 timing, I run trick race fuel when I go to the dunes at sea level. With 18cc domes and +5 timing, I just can't see a way that you aren't going to need it. With the T6's I assume you are unported?

I was sort of wondering the same question. I've got my eyes out for a set of inframes over the next couple months and I want to port a set of cylinders to go with the pipes, for a dunes setup. Was thinking of a 194* ED with 130* TD. What kind of riding are you doing with them? Assuming it must be drag or dunes?

I would just call CC, I'm sure they will make it right. The oil seeping past doesn't concern me as much though, because it is not a sealed bearing unit, so you will probably get minor seapage... Like I said though, get ahold of them, I know they will make it right if something is goofed. Did you try the other day?