2003LimitedBanshee

Also, ditch the timing key and get a timing plate. Ricky Stator plates can be had for right around $40 and I have yet to hear of one shearing, which is more than I can say for timing keys.

I would second that thought. Possibly consider the change in domes to compensate for "upgrading" to a more mid-high focused pipe as you pointed out. This would help you reclaim some of the bottom end loss from ditching the gnarly's. I run T5's on a stock port (currently, but cylinders are almost done) with 20cc domes which I think gives me a pretty strong bottom end from the domes and subsequent compression, but still wants to scream on the top. I'm sure won't make quite the bottom end of the gnarly's still, but would compensate nicely.

PM sent

Topic title... "stock stroke" Sorry, not trying to be an ass, but couldn't resist; we've all overlooked something at one point or another. :beer: BUMP for sick looking cylinders and porting!

X2 That's what I will be having done to my pipes when the chrome starts to deteriorate.

I still have two sets of spacers left out of this run, two kits currently in stock, one orange, one blue. I am also going to throw my SE shocks out there for bid too. I am asking $300 shipped to the lower 48 for those. Before you go, "whoa what, are you crazy!?" these shocks are the hi/low speed compression adjustment, in addition to the normal rebound and preload adjustments. They are also anodized black bodies with reddish/orange springs, rezzy is also black anodized, same size, but slightly redisgned body. I can send pictures tomorrow to anyone interested. Thanks! - Brian

Glad to hear they worked out for you and made it across the ocean fine! Limiting straps would be a good idea, I might look into that for my new YFZ450R shocks. I actually like the idea of limiting straps, that way neither the ball joints or the shocks and providing the limitation on the suspension.

Personally, I have a jig that I built for cutting the arms down using my abrasive wheel chopsaw. This makes sure that I can consistently reproduce the same results and fit each and every time. Then I dress them up, so there are no hangers, burrs etc. As far as shocks go, the standard YFZ shocks only have single speed compression and single speed rebound adjustment (preload too). The SE shocks, from 06-08 models (?) had hi and low speed compression adjustment, instead of simple compression adjustment. NOW, if you are ambitious, you can run make the YFZ450R shocks work. I haven't got the chance to ride it yet, but I'm hopeful.

Yep exactly. HP I would bet Fatty over Gnarly, but again Torque, my money would then go with the Gnarly's of course.

Thanks man! Looking at these pictures again during the daylight hours I'm actually a little embarassed. It looks like a filthy pig! I'm not a polishing freak, too many locked up fingers from hand polishing for hours on end. But, I at least try to keep stuff clean! I haven't even touched it since I got back from the coast last weekend; so, I'll wash it up and grab a few more pics next week.

I am certainly no expert, but I am going to guess around 8400-8600? It seemed to me that the SST is about the closest thing to T5's that FMF does, but it always seemed they came on and peaked out a little earlier. So, that's my un-dynoed, untried best guess. From my somewhat limited knowledge of FMF pipes, it does seem to me to make sense though that the SST's peaked higher than the Fatty's. If we had a torque curve, I would bet that the roles would be reversed. So, just my $.02

Alright, quick measurements. Ground to bottom of frame tube in between lower bumper mounts: 13 7/16" Probably an easier comparison, ground to center of lower bumper bracket bolt hole: 14" The last measurement will probably help to get a comparison so you don't have to pull the bumper. Well, you could get creative with your measuring with the bumper installed and get both numbers either way I suppose. :geek:

I'll get a quick measurement this morning on the ground clearance. Overall it is sitting level again, so I'm pretty certain it is not higher than with stock suspension. When I am sitting on the bike it is certainly not any higher than stock; it feels much higher than it did sit, but it had a pretty good rake on it before. I agree with you on ground clearance, I have certainly put my center of gravity farther off the ground again, so that could adversely affect some of the major steering benefit I had with the lower CG. Personally, I would say 18.5" is a touch too much. I had to take most of the preload off the shocks to get them to fit in. When the bike is up in the air, the shocks will max out the balljoints it does appear; however with just the weight of the bike on the suspension, it compresses enough that it is not binding them. I can definitely tell the geometry of the spindles to balljoints is improved with the YFZ spindles; the bike turned much easier when pushing it out for the pictures. Didn't figure the neighbors would like me firing it up at 1:30 AM to ride it out of the shop! :biggrin: I'll see if I can get some better pics and some measurements. Measurements shouldn't be hard, but I woke up to Oregon rain today, plus I'm headed out of town, so side angle pics might be delayed for a bit. :beer:

Alright, so I know I'm probably one of, if not the only, idiots still up working on my Banshee at this time of night. But, I got some new parts in the mail and I just couldn't wait to get going. So, here you have it, the next step in the YFZ450 suspension craziness. Any guesses? If you haven't guessed already, you're looking at shocks off the brand new YFZ450R. They measure up at 18.25" eye to eye!! I haven't measured the height yet, as you can tell it's not all buttoned up, brakes etc. But, just based of eye to eye length, I should have reclaimed every bit if not more of the ground clearance originally lost by the conversion! I still need to calculate travel of this setup to figure out if it could be called long travel. Of course, there was a big discussion about what constituted long travel here recently. If you say long travel is anything with great travel than stock, then this would certainly qualify! I'll leave you with a few more. I can honestly say that this addition to the conversion may not be for everyone. For one, the YFZ450R shocks are still pretty dang expensive! For two, you absolutely have to run the 450 spindles; luckily I had a complete set of spindles, hubs and rotors ready to just swap across. For three, the 450R shocks are a touch bigger in diameter than the standard 450 shocks, thus I had to remove the rear dust cap on the upper a-arms to make sure I had enough clearance between the spring and the a-arm. Sorry the bike is a mess, but I'll wash it up and get some good daylight pictures ASAP. I'm sure Michael Jackson will have something to say about this additional step if he sees it, but whatever... :beer:

Most likely not if you hear stuff rattling and shaking around inside now. Everything should have been balanced when all the stuff you now hear rattling was attahced at the correct place, but now it is moving around. Might or might not be enough to be out of balance enough to wipe out the crank, but technically not balanced.

Yeah, I really need to revisit my port mapping/time area learning from my Jennings write-up before I go trying to determine my own timing configurations. I see that I can definitely change the shape of my exhaust port more along the lines of what you were mentioning. On the port mapping, just visually does it look off or you mean you can't comment because it may or may not work ideally with my combination? Thanks everyone! I'm definitely a student in this area, but I am hoping to do a lot of learning! - Brian

Oh no, I'm sorry, I didn't mean the bore the cylinders. I had heard that the stock carbs could be bored to 28mm for a little bit of added flow with decent results; that was my reference to boring. No, actually I am going to mic my cylinder and see if I can get away with simply honing these cylinders I'm porting right now as opposed to boring them. Haven't actually mic'd them yet.

Okay question from an electrical infant, I think it was mentioned that you can do the DC conversion without the battery, but you will not be able to run the lights while the bike is not running? As odd as it may sound, I'm not real concerned with running the lights while the bike is off. I ride with enough 4-stroke guys that they can run their lights if we stop at night. Thanks! Snop, PM'ing you...

Thanks! I thought those transfers looked pretty big and the exhaust looked monster also; now I see why at 202*. I can see that I am going to be hooked on porting now and I haven't even finished the other cylinder to get to ride it with my new grind yet! The work is fun (to me at least) but man, the concept and theory and just wondering what this or that will do is the really cool part! Now I'm looking for a set of CPI's because I want to try a little bigger numbers on my stock cylinders that are on the bike now to combo up with a set of CPI's, probably carbs too, or at least have my stockers bored. Actually will probably have the stockers bored to go with these cylinders I'm cutting now and my T5's and then go to different carbs for next cylinders and CPI's.

what he said. Bore:exhaust width ratio not typically to exceed 70-72%. More than that and the ring will beginning deflecting into the port too much.

Thanks Jack, hope your build is going good! Shane, glad you were happy with your modified parts! Thanks to both of you, hope I can help you or any of your friends out with this conversion down the road! - Brian

Thanks Jack, hope your build is going good! Shane, glad you were happy with your modified parts! Thanks to both of you, hope I can help you or any of your friends out with this conversion down the road! - Brian

Thanks Jack, hope your build is going good! Shane, glad you were happy with your modified parts! Thanks to both of you, hope I can help you or any of your friends out with this conversion down the road! - Brian

Ah I see it now... I noticed the outside of the cylinder looked odd and now I see it has a huge thick sleeve in it like you said. I thought it was cut into the exhuast, but the finish on the port looking up through the exhaust was shiny enough I couldn't tell. :cool:

Okay so a question on these pictures, those extra ports above the main transfer, at first I thought they were probably additional transfers. But, the more I look at them, it appears that they are cut into the cylinder and possibly tie into the exhaust? Not that I am actually going to try this, but I am just curious from a technical standpoint how this is done. Heck, even if they are tied into the transfers, same question? EDIT: Do you remember or care to disclose the timing on those transfers? They look HUGE! Thanks!