2003LimitedBanshee

Of the transfer ports, as far as timing you mean? You can kind of get an idea in these pictures. I spaced getting pics of both cylinders side by side after the timing was changed, but of course it won't show a lot of comparison, but I can snap some. As far as running, I'm going to make a couple dyno passes next week with the stock cylinders first, waiting on base gaskets from the Yamaha shop, to bolt these up. Realistically, I might be able to get some dyno time on Tuesday with stock cylinders and maybe make passes with these on Friday. That's my ambitious timeline. Thanks for the compliment...

Alright, so this stage is basically complete. I've already got thoughts of opening up the runners of the aux transfers back towards the back of the cylinders (towards reeds), because I didn't really radically change that part of the transfers. Porting specs are as follows: 188* ED 128* TD 129* Boost Duration Let me know what you think!

I've got a topic running on this right now, just a few down from this. Doing the work isn't that hard, but you're going to spend more than a good port job would cost, just buying the right tools alone. Also the builders don't get paid the money they do because it's overly difficult work to perform, it isn't like writing your name either, but you are paying for their knowledge as much as anything. Every piece of your puzzle is going to factor in to your port work. I've only cut one set of cylinders and I had my specs recommended to me, so you won't get me spewing specs. Post up what you've got as far as mods, weight, riding style etc and maybe you'll get lucky like I did. Once you get specs, if you can, then you can talk tools and technique.

I've got a bunch, how many you want? You cover shipping and we can work it out...

Check out the top of the case on the clutch side. There will be an "arrow" on the case and, a point really, on the clutch arm. These two should line up, with the appropriate amount of freeplay. If you've adjust freeplay correctly and they don't line up, you've got clutch wear issues to address. Further, what kind of oil are you running in the tranny? Personally I've run oil with friction modifiers (most all 4-stroke motor oil has them now) which can cause the clutch to slip bad in our application. I haven't had much issue with this, but I know many have. Second, on my stock port, with mods listed below, similar, I could really put some grunt to my stock clutch and it didn't care for it. With my cylinders I just ported, I'm not even considering trying to run it through the stock clutch and I'm just betting Jeff has done enough port work to probably make a little more power than I'm making out of my port work. :cool: Midrange does actually make sense for slipping. If you think about it, you probably get some good spin on launch, dirt or sand? But by midrange when the bike is really starting to pull, the tires also have enough momentum that they don't want to slip nearly as much, so the power seeks out the weakest point, most likely your clutch. On the top, the power curve probably isn't as radical and the clutch "catches up" and you start to feel the pull again. I'm not a pro builder by any means, but just my $.02. I agree with sheefreak's comment, but I'm sure Jeff would square you away on the phone or on here too. Get his clutch, that's what's going back in mine. Think it was using R6 fibers, or some other street bike, plus 3 HD springs, so should hold good power! - Brian

You'll love the #1MC and I just picked up a Foredom 44T which works great too! Sorry guys, my school/work schedule is nutso right now. I'm lucky to scrape together 20 minutes to grind... Tonight... :biggrin:

I am definitely beginning to take it seriously. This is my first set of cylinders as far as porting them goes, but it's fun and kind of addicting in a strange way! On the #1 MC, what should I be lubricating it with? I should be putting the final sanding in on my exhaust ports tonight and I'll post up some pics. Going to get a dyno run in next week hopefully with the stock cylinders, but I'm waiting on some base gaskets so I can swap these cylinders on and then make some sweeps with them.

I would think it should have run faster than that. On my stock port, stock swingarm (way too SHORT) and with my knobbies, I turned low 7.70's high 7.60's in the 1/8th. I'm running a decent amount more compression, but that port work is going to be a big unknown. Did he give you specs on the port work?

So my local steel distributor, who has been in the area for quite some time (i.e. reputable) informed me that "you can't get chromoly in rectangular". But, they did have a stick of 2"x 1 1/2" with .120" wall mild steel. So, for now I suppose I'll just go with that. The .120" wall should give me enough strength and I can't imagine that I'm adding a ton of weight instead of using chromoly. Next challenge to tackle is building a jig. I'm envisioning a 1" plate with machined "towers" fish-mouthed on one end to hold the pivot and the carrier tub and turned on the other end that will fit into drilled holes on the plate. Then with the holes I can adjust the position of the towers to accomodate +2, +4, +6 etc.

Anybody have off hand the rectangular tubing dimensions on a stock swinger. I took a quick measurement and it looks like it should be 1 1/2" x 2" rectangular tubing. Anyone know the stock thickness? I just got my carrier "tube" and front pivot from JJ&A and I want to pickup some rectangular chromoly for doing up the main section of the swingarm. But I want to make sure I get the right size and wall thickness. I measured the stock swingarm at right about 20" from center of front pivot to center of stock carrier. Sound right? I know this should really probably go in suspension, but I know that far less people actually go to that section of the forums. Thanks! - Brian EDIT: I was trying to get these measurements while the swinger was on the bike, so that's why I want to verify my center to center measurements etc.

I could probably set you up with some 450 stuff if you'd like. I've set more than a few here on the HQ up...

Now I would agree, quality of chrome could affect the blueing I'm sure. But, my T5's have certainly blued about the first 4-6", even a blueish-purple really. I personally think that (chrome dependent) if the pipes are not blueing some, I would lean it out, because you are probably running rich. Now, I'm NOT saying jet your bike by the color of the pipes, but coloring is indicative of heat. Heat in moderation is healthy and "good".

PM sent...

Haha, let me know how that works out for you. It's a sickness, you won't be able to stop doing "stuff" to it!

I heard there were people around the HQ selling them too......... :biggrin:

In reference to this calculator, wouldn't stroke be calculated from the time the exhaust port closes? I.e. much shorter than the total stroke of the engine? I'm assuming this, since this appears to be a four stroke caculator and all the valves would be closed for the "entire" length of the compression stroke, whereas on a two stroke you are still "losing" compression until the exhasust port is closed. But, I also know you have a backpressure wave coming from the pipes that help to contain some of this loss. For instance I just plugged in a stock bore (64mm converted to In.)/stroke(54mm? converted to in.) with 18cc domes. Now, I didn't have a gasket/o-ring available to measure, so i assumed the gasket bore was the same the cylinder and a gasket thickness of .020" (not sure how accurate that is?). So, the numbers may not be exact and I understand that my static compression would change as a result of this assumption, but a minor amount. It calculated this to be a static ratio of 9.3:1 That can't be right can it? EDIT: I thought BMEP (which I'm still trying to fully grasp) was the main calculation as far as octane requirements are concerned? I understand that there is a correlation between BMEP and compression ratio, but I don't have that formula...

Alright, got another cable for the Foredom this evening, so I was able to get back up and running. "Finished" off the cylinders tonight, but might re-touch my first exhaust before bolting up. Not to say I'm improving by leaps and bounds, but I can CERTAINLY see the difference in the two exhaust ports and ironically I spent far less time on the second. My digital camera SD card is acting up, so hopefully will get some pics up tomorrow of both cylinders in their "completed" state. I really think the cylinders look pretty good, but being a perfectionist, I know I can do better, so it's half frustrating; but in a good way. I hope to get them bolted up this weekend and hopefully get the chance to test them out. I hope they seriously RIP! When I get it torn down, is there a good, SAFE way to port the case without splitting them? Can I tape off, mask or whatever and keep stuff clean? Has it ever been decided what porting the case is worth? A couple HP?

Haven't had a chance to ride it yet; caliper bolts just showed up at Yamaha shop. I'm going to pick them up tomorrow and also pick up a set of base gaskets so I can bolt up my cylinders I just finished porting and then ride the fricken' crap outta this thing!!!

Thanks for the roundabout compliment on the arms. If you need to find a set of arms, I know a guy who can probably help you out, one way or another... :biggrin: Yeah, like SonofSand said, $160 covered the spacers, NOSS tie rods, modification AND shipping back. Glad to hear they worked out for you so good!

Well it did seem to cut faster, but I was using 1/4" also, not 1/8". From everything I've heard they are good for rough in, but if you go slow and steady, I got really good, quick results that doesn't really need any cleaning up. All I can say in my case is that it worked GREAT for the exhaust!

Well was getting a fair way through the second cylinder when my tools starting acting up. Couldn't figure out what exactly was going on; it would almost freewheel or something like that. Well, long story short, the drive end of the cable coming from the motor came loose from the "spring" drive cable. I managed to get the exhaust shaped up, the transfer runners opened up and started to raise the transfers before it was acting up more than I could stand. I got a new handpiece the other day, with a 1/4" collet that I chucked one of my long burrs up in this morning for working over the exhaust. The burr was a double cut and man did it go way faster than tring to work with an 1/8" spiral cut burr!!! Now I need to see if I can find a shop locally that stocks the cable. There is one place I know of that sells Foredom accessories here close by so I just hope they sell cables. I can't imagine they wouldn't? But, I really don't want to wait for a cable to show up 5-7 days from now so I can finish these off! For you guys that do this professionally, semi-professionally or semi-seriously, what do you do about shaping your exhaust ports? Thinking along the lines of templates or no. NO, I don't mean like racelogic templates, but have you designed templates you can slip in? I'm just wondering because obviously I degreed in my port heights, but from there, good bad or indifferent I am shaping the port based on how it makes sense visually and what feels what when literally touching the contours of the port. trex, it's taken me a bit longer to work up the nerve to port on my cylinders, so I'm behind on the learning curve. You've got a couple years jump on me and you've got a couple years yet (really only just a couple) to catch me. So, by the time you get to my age, you'll have a few more years yet and I'm sure it will show. I'm sure if I would have just started cutting I wouldn't be able to get these to run for crap either; but, luckily I got a decent set of specs and wisdom passed along to me from a reputable builder; still not sure why he gave them to me, even today?

Ran like a piece of hot ass or like the smelly stuff that comes out of ass? I'm wondering if you were hinting not to expect a whole lot out of the first set? Will post up pics soon. I spent last night out in the shop until about 2AM working on the second cylinder. I also found an old flap shank that I had completely forgotten I had, so I was able to put an initial sanding pass on the first exhaust port. I also went back and reshaped the first exhaust port to get a better time area out of a more efficient shape. On the second cylinder I got the intakes done and the intake runners on the inboard side of the cylinder. I'm going to start on the transfer port timing on the second cylinder today, as well as the exhaust. With any luck, I'll have it up an running this weekend, at least if just for a couple quick seat of the pants tests. Although, I still need to mic the cylinder to see if I can get away with a quick hone. If I need a bore then of course that is going to kind of mess up my timeline. I'm getting really excited about it too! There is no doubt that it takes a lot of time and the money part is true too. As far as economics go, for a single set of cylinders your cost/benefit is definitely down the toilet as compared to sending the cylinders out. But, I can already tell that I'm addicted to grinding, so I'm sure I'll do the cylinders that I'm pulling off my bike, plus a buddy of mine will almost certainly ask me to grind on his too, at the least. But, I knew coming in that it was going to cost more money on this first set than sending them out, but the pride in doing them myself is what really meant something to me. Pics soon...

Yes that was for a roundhouse carrier. Sorry should have clarified.

I could be wrong, but I believe the carrier diameter etc is the same for the banshee, raptor and possibly warrior? I'm sure I remember my carrier box saying at least banshee/raptor.

I've got the first cylinder done (well still have to polish exhaust) and I'm going to start in on the second tonight. I was out of town at a car show Thursday-Sunday, so that slowed me down a bit. I'll be taking some more pics tonight and starting to cut the second cylinder. I went back and reworked the intake roof and smoothed it into the intake runner, so it is now one nice sweeping ramp. I think I may go back and open the aux transfer runners though. It was recommended to me that I move the back wall back a bit as the runner is considerably smaller than the port windows, so I may go back and do that. I'm waiting on some 1/4" burrs to get down in there deep. Believe it or not, I've actually done all the work up until now with 1/8" burrs... I've been sucking some knowledge off some fellow HQ'ers and trying to expand my porting brain/knowledge/understanding. I'd love to see open discussions about porting theory, trials/testing of different configurations etc. on the HQ, but I don't know that that will happen. I'm getting a much better understanding of port timing and how altering it can influence the power potential and how you can influence how that power is developed, but I know I couldn't even begin to work on the finer details of port entry angles, roof angles and all of that quite yet. I understand how to measure those things now, but have zero experience with what effects those changes might have. Those of you willing to share knowledge, you know who you are, thanks! - Brian