2003LimitedBanshee

If you've actually run it you'll know why. Toomey "recommends" the same jetting for both the modified airbox (with 6-12 inserts) as with the 2:1. I guarantee, and can speak from experience that the 2:1 has much higher flow capabilities than even a modified airbox. So, the simple fact is that you can run those 280 mains, and it will run as hard as it will ever run, but not for long. Hopefully someone else who is running this setup, and there are lots out there, will chime in as well. Recommendations are just that, but experience with that exact setup tells me much differently.

That will give you a good starting point. The big thing people misunderstand about jetting when they first get into it is that they think that it is an exact science. Jetting is more about dialing something in. You really have to get in the general area and then start letting the bike tell you and show you what small changes to make. Based on your info on temp and humidity I would guess you to be about 310, but 320 is a wise start. Each bike is different, so you could end up at 330, it all depends on what the bike, plugs etc. show.

NO. Although they make a great pipe, anyone will tell you that their jetting is off if you switch to the 2:1. I was dead scared when I checked the plugs in my bike after installing my T5's and the 2:1. It ghosted a set of used plugs. What kind of temps and humidity are you running in FL about now? With that 2:1, T5's and nothing more, I would baseline you at about 310-320. Toomey (Dynojet actually) needle on the third clip from top, and the stock pilot, probably .75 out on the air screw. That should get you in the ball park, depending on what you are running for temps right now. When I run my bike at the Oregon Dunes (sea level) during the summer, about 65-75 degrees, I run 340's with the mods listed in my sig.

2001JLShee wasn't saying to get some blingy hangers, he was saying to look to them as the possible cause of the problem. Whether or not that is where the problem lies it's hard to say. This sounds stupid, but did you check your springs done at the head of the pipe? If one of those weakens or breaks, I've seen it cause the pull on the pipe to shift the pipe's position way more than you would expect. Beyond that if you check all the mounting points on the pipes, silencers etc. the only other explanation is that something on the bike changed position, ie. bent. Good luck.

I would definitely agree with you that everyone is on here to talk about one thing, banshees. That's exactly why I think this thread was so stupid and should have been deleted right away. What business does a retarded question like this have in any discussion? I guess I must be the one out of EVERYONE that doesn't/hasn't smoked, so please don't roll me into that group. I guess if we're talking about everyone's crack, Banshees, think about how much other stuff you could have done to your bike, house, trips you could take with your wife, if you weren't burning it up so to speak? :shrug:

Just a side note, but I kick 190+psi on stock bore/port at sea level. Mods below. With timing, NOT Pump gas FRIENDLY.

I realize that, I'm from Oregon too, but the original and still primary uses for Medicinal Marijuana are Glaucoma, MS and some forms of cancer. Nothing personal but I don't want any of those combinations stoned on a bike with the potential of even the tamest Banshees. Even take the migraine example; do you want someone extremely light sensitive, with a headache that more or less incapacitates them hitting up a bong and going out riding? I realize that you can get medicinal clearance for many other ailments, by the premise still stands.

I guess it's a good thing I don't drink and drive, ride, boat or otherwise. The point is if you want to be potheads I've got no problem with that. If you want to be a drunk, I've got no problem with that. I do have a problem with people flaunting their pothead questions around. Let's face it, the only reason someone would post something stupid like this, is because they are either high school aged and think it is still really cool, or they are the dead-end types that never grew out of it that I was talking about earlier. Truly, the only reason to post something so asinine is to try and draw attention. Nice MySpace by the way... "gettin hammerd, hittin on all the hot/cute girls/teachers" the never grew out of stage I was talking about. Medicinal, yeah, buy that one. So what your saying is that he has glaucoma? Sure put him on a bike. MS, yeah put him on a bike. Medicinal.... I'll wager a bet against that.

It became such a bad thing when it made people type like third graders. I see maybe three legitimate sentences and the rest....? The big problem I have is if you want to be a pothead go for it; I'm still going to go places whether your a pothead or not. But, when your being a pothead could potentially endanger my going places, I've got a problem with that. Go be potheads with all your other pothead friends and leave the rest of us out of it.

Well, there went all the new PS members that moved over here briefly. That is one positive thing I can say about PS, you never see stupid ass crap like this posted in one of their forums. Can't someone with the power, delete this, and also maybe give the jackass who posted this the boot? How about this, sell your bike and go back to being a dead-end, going nowhere pothead, and quit giving people a bad name? Then you won't have to worry about where to put it. Believe it or not, being a pothead is really only cool to other potheads, most of us think you're possibly amongst the stupidest human being wastes walking around.

My only experience has been with DID chains as well, X-Ring. I think you'll probably find DID to be the generally accepted standard. They are slightly more expensive, but most would argue that they will wear longer. So, if you break down ride time vs. cost it would likely be better. As far as sprockets, I run a Renthal steel front sprocket, and a Renthal hardened alloy rear sprocket.

Testing warmed up versus cold makes little noticeable difference. To address your question you would have to be running quite a lot of timing to justify a 50/50 mix. Are you running a Dyna, timing plate etc? I would be concerned about a drop of 30 psi in that one cylinder after just weekend. The lack of octane, if it was needed, would cause other issues, but not likely a simple loss of compression with no other symptoms. What do the spark plugs look like? Color, deposits etc. edit: Also, have you tested the bike to those RPMs. That would definitely be a revver if it does truly turn those RPMs. My other main question would be what kind of pipes are you running.

You caught my error, I guess that's what I get for responding after working all day late at night. Compression psi absolutely increases with a decrease in elevation. I completely typed the wrong angle. The statement in woodro's I was intending to address was that Red should see the same compression change as I would when I ride at sea level if we both went from 16cc to 18cc. In other words, if Red sees a 30 psi drop by going from 16cc to 18cc I should see a 30 psi drop as well, all else the same. Now, where I got caught with my pants down late last night, was that absolutely I will see a higher compression psi at 2000' vs. Red's 7500' if everything else is exactly the same on the bikes. My apologies; way to sound like a dumbass on my part. :: ::

Like I said, it's been my experience that even with compression north of 170 psi, hand tightening has provided plenty of sealing. I don't know about the Craftsman, but my SNAP-ON has a large rubber washer if you will, that seals against the spark plug surface.

I would beg to differ with that statement. Now, if you had said it will take longer (very briefly at that) for a longer tube to reach max psi, I would buy that. The length of the tube will not (within reason) affect the psi reading of the gauge. If you had a very long (I'm talking stupid long, feet) you might see a minimal drop at best. All the longer tube does is make for slightly more air that has to be compressed before it creates a reading on the gauge.

Personally, I have the SNAP-ON compression gauge, I'll have to check the adapter number tomorrow. Mine also does not have a wrench fitting, but I've found on mine at least that it isn't necessary. I kick out over 175 psi and I've never had a leak to speak of. I haven't looked at the Craftsman but a big selling point to me on the SNAP-ON is the quick disconnect adapters, just like an air chuck. Maybe the Craftsman has that also, don't know?

It won't run long on pump at 185 psi. I kick near 190 psi (and +4 timing) at sea level and I run straight Trick Race Fuel. I'm not sure about woodro's statement. I think maybe I am just interpretting his explanation wrong. Compression psi goes up as elevation increases, but the same cc dome change will not net additional compression at a lower elevation over the higher elevation.

Depending on how loose your chain was that could have been the cause right there. I was surprised how quickly my sprocket snuck up on me. If your sprocket is not long for this world, or if your chain was that loose, my money is that you were feeling the chain jump. I originally thought mine was from sand in the chain because the first time I felt it was hillclimbing in the sand with some deeper ruts. But then when I felt it doing it on the flats when I would stab the throttle it made me look further.

Toomey states the length at 18mm if I remember right. However, I found I had to remove another 2-3mm to get enough adjustment out of the idle screws to have any impact.

Have you looked at your rear sprocket recently? I had the same problem riding in the sand, when I would stab the throttle as it was picking the front up I would get kind of a clunk, possibly jerking type action like you are describing. Turns out my rear sprocket was getting short to this world, and the recent upgrades I had made started to wave the sprocket teeth over. I felt like a complete idiot because I maintain my bike meticulously and I don't know how I overlooked it. Changed out the rear sprocket and threw a DID X-Ring on and it worked wonderfully.

I don't know what you dB requirements are there. But, my guess is that the only way you will get them truly legal is by running the Hush Kit. I personally don't run a hush kit on the Oregon Dunes, one of the strictest if I'm not mistaken, and haven't been bothered, but I play it safe when I see the law.

I also looked at that tool when I was purchasing my porting tools. After some checking around on PlanteSand, I found out what Dajogejr suspected; I was told they were far too light-duty to stand up to the heavy work that needs to be done. So, as much as it hurt initially to spend $335 on one handpiece, I ended up going with the CC Specialty No. 1MC. That would be my recommendation.

Wow, don't know that I could have said it better myself. Dajogejer, I'm sure you probably realized this already, but those aren't Craptor plastics, it's all YFZ with a Banshee motor. I personally would love to see a quick race between crazyshee400 and 2005SEBANSHEE. I see Elka's, Rockets, carbs, head, and he says a ported Cheetah. 2005SEBANSHEE, let's see he lists Toomy (not even spelled right), ITP (wheels, always helps the speed), Denton, but don't forget I'm sure at least 8HP worth of stickers. I guess doesn't play well with others covers it huh?

I know, I didn't believe it the first time I tested it, but like I said I've checked on several different occassions. Checked it after the install, after heat cycling, and after the first few trips back when I first installed it. Always, right in the low 170's (at 1980'); what does yours kick, since you have 20cc's also?

I know dlnoss is the definitive word on the subject, when it comes to his head at least, however, I can give you personal experience with the compression. You can see the mods in my signature, which for about the next week does not include porting. Stock bore, stroke, porting. When I switched to my NOSS head, which I ABSOLUTELY LOVE I might add, with 20cc domes, I kick 170-173 psi in each cylinder at 1980' elevation. Tested on several occassions with my SNAP-ON compression tester. So, just my experience. I didn't have a problem with this as I intended to make the switch to race fuel anyway, but I don't believe this would be a pump gas friendly cylinder pressure. Compression at sea level, dunes, is approx 190 psi. My guarantee is that it will run like an ape, and have very much improved bottom end over stock. :beer: