Tedder

I've opened our asphalt motors many times without pulling the head or cylinders. Take an old towel and fold it into a nice thick layer to set under the head and use a block of wood under the rear motor mount. If you have any trouble or questions shoot me a pm.

My offer still stands. LMK

No problem. Thanks anyway.

How about $120.00 as a paypal gift and you can ship them parcel post.

If you don't have any luck selling them I'd go $100.00 plus shipping to 44062

I run 1/4 mile at 120mph+ and ALWAYS balance our American Racers with a bubble balancer and stick on weights. I had to do something because they varied from little vibration to so bad that you could see flashes of daylight under them as they went down track.

Billet bowls??? If so, make sure the nose of the float isn't catching on the sharp edge of the upper adapter plate. I've had to lightly file there so the float didn't get hung up.

I'm pretty much on the same page as Savage. Great explanation on baseline. Because probe placement has such an effect you should NEVER GO BY TEMP READINGS ALONE to tune. Get a baseline established. I run alcohol on asphalt and use a DT54K. I agree with Savages general temp recomendations but I recently bought a single screen for my wifes gas bike and Digitron tech support quoted much higher temps for that. Since your going gas you might want to call them.

Keep in mind that depending on what ignition system your using you need factor in the base timing to calculate your overall curve. That being said, 2 degrees isn't much and I wouldn't get to hung up on it being an absolute because of a dyno number. Dyno's are a great tuning tool but things change day to day (sometimes hour to hour) that will effect a "best" setting such as heat and humidity.

That's not cheap plugs...You are detonating the hell out of it and are going to distroy it.

Yep, thats normal. Once you torque the nut down with the spacer and sprocket in place it'll snug right up.

Are these sold?

You'll get a lot of recomendations on serval vs ported stockers but you def don't want a cub for your style of riding. Call some HQ sponcors for opinions and prices.

Yep, Most likely sucking tranny fluid through the crank seal.

No worries Jerry. Some of HQ's longest & finest members have spoken here on your behalf. Over the years I've purchased most every item you offer and have always been 110% satisfied with every aspect of the products and business practices. The customer in question totally lost my respect when he threatened a bad HQ review... Childish blackmail attempt to get the stuff for free. Considering the length of time thats passed, your request for him to cover shipping seems very reasonable to me.

I have a Digitron DT54K on my 1/4 mile asphalt bike and a DT51K on the wifes but neither will shut the motor down. Both have warning lights that come on at a preset value. I'm not aware of any Digitrons that will actually kill the ignition.

Typically they hold up pretty well for us. All of our 1/4 mile asphalt bikes as well as my sons last 2 motors (1 Serval) run V-2's. I've never had an issue with a screw coming out but because of that possiblity with the 2's the only time I've changed the petals is if I find frayed or chipped ends. The last set I replaced was just a few weeks ago and those were new in July 2008.

For a stock stroke setup I'd prefer an OEM crank but new they're outragous $$$ and about impossible to find with no hours these days so I go with Hot Rods (2nd choice).

Looking for a prime set of Chrome Small bore CPI's. One out each side.

Hey Mark, Going to come play with us at Thompson? lol Don't mean to hijack your thread. Just haven't heard from you in a while and wanted to say HI ! We use $25.00 K&N knock offs that Jeff at FAST RACING carries.

Interesting find but I'd be really hesitant in running them. I do 1/4 mile also and have had thoughts of what a tire failure would be like as I passed through the traps on the big end...Not something I'd ever want to experience. Rotating mass? - They're heavy @ 15 lbs Per their description-Made to not damage the lawn. You can bet that compound wasn't formulated with our use in mind lol. Also got to wonder about quality control if designed for a mower going 3.5 mph. Hoosiers, American Racers and M/T's my not be DOT rated but their intended use in sprint cars, Jrs etc is known by the manufacturer and factored into construction. Stay safe.

Thats not normal. Better dig into it now and find the cause. The cost of repairs will just keep going up if you continue running it.

Jeff did my wifes carbs and grill this spring. Awesome job - I never knew polished aluminum could shine like show chrome!

Before changing professions 27 years ago I was NIASE certified in brakes. Every once in a while I'd run into a caliper that would lock up but if the bleeder was cracked the piston could be freely pushed back. It's kind of hard to describe but what was happening is the inner liner of the rubber brake hose would split and allow the fluid to be forced out around the fabric woven into the line and it would collapse the inner liner making it impossible for the fluid to return to the master cylinder. Sometimes if left alone for a while it would release only to lock again after applying the brakes and forcing the fluid into the pocket pinching off the return flow again. Hope that helps.

I wasn't recommending it as a fix for what you've got going on. You're problem is that the settings are way off and adding five bottles of the stuff won't fix that. What I ment was that once your setup correctly you may occasionally have days when a little chatter develops. If your between rounds and don't have time or don't want to make clutch changes that may screw up your dial you can add a (little) of the additive to help calm it down.