trickedcarbine

Yeah, I'd steer clear of that ModQuad stuff though. The shafts are soft and they wear a groove at the seal.

I would suggest an entirely new water pump set up. New impeller, bearing, and seal. Your gear may be fine. Also do a new kick starter seal. Look in to the vent block off plate.

Falicon can.

What are you trying to figure out? check this out. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/183098-looking-for-photos-of-a-no-link-rear-set-up/ I started that thread after my first attempt wasn't so hot.

^ This guy....

Hope the crank is welded with 18cc domes in that head. That's a good amount in f compression. You've about got all the bolt ons. Have you considered port work and custom matched domes? Any suspension mods?

Sounds like you have your priorities in order.

Welcome to Bhq.

Always comical when someone gets a clue.

A 10 mil or 521.... Hmm.

Im it surprised it took ya that long.

Thank you

When someone says any "X" mil, they are referring to the additional stroke. If it's a 4 mil that means 4 mm more stroke over stock. And so on for 5, 7, 10, etc. Stock Rod length is 110mm. Typically when you hear long rod thrown out as a term, they will mean 115mm rod. The theory is the longer rod puts less stress on the piston and have a longer dwell time. There will be different pistons to run a longer rod. 421 will typically be 4mil crank, 68mm bore.

Looks like there powder coat inside the swing arm housing. Doubt it since its JJ&A, but Is there coating on the carrier? Have you tried to pry the swing arm open just a touch?

Call Jeff at fast and ask for a complete bottom end OEM kit. Not sure if that's what it's called on their web site. But it's a kit with every OEM clip, retainer, washer, eccentric stud, etc... If the low end is being split, it may as well go back together with brand new stuff. I'd imagine Cam at redline has a similar package of can fill the same order. Kick starter bushing. Transmission bearings. Shift shaft. Shift shaft bushing. Maybe have Cam do the trans.

Good things come to those who wait.

No, I'm saying they SHOULD HAVE included welding in to the production on any banshee crank.

The cranks should of been welded from the factory... So, I'd get that taken care of.

The excessive shaft movement will go away when the clutch is assembled properly.

It enables the casting foundry to cast the water jacket around the exhaust.

Paging zilla

Do not use a screw driver to pry them out. Put a screw in to the plug leaving enough of the screw to grab with pliers.

Clymer FTW

Bummer.

Those suspension seats up on the shelf. Are they for sale and do you have another bucket?