trickedcarbine

But as a first time buyer, I wanted a discount. And I needed it right away. And if he's to busy building stuff for guys who represent his company I will take my business else where. How dare he waste my time. Lol.

That^ Had a local sled guy go over a 4mil serval last year. He didn't do much with durations. Just crisped up shapes and angles. If you look through the dynos for them here and see the Redline stuff, I believe he claims gains with just minor tweaking of shapes and angles with out drastic duration changes as well.

Umm, if in fact what you are describing is damage on an opposite side of a damaged piston, you need to check the crank. Parts from the right side can't physically feed to the opposite side if everything is in the condition it needs to be. That means debris had to go through two bearings.... Or something on that other side let go that you didn't notice.

I'm an amateur, but I've listened to a lot of folks who were willing to share the info. You have the gist of what's needed listed above, but where it gets technical is when you start to really think about what it takes to create a better combustion. Not just domes, but physically aiming the ports in a way so that as they flow, they go to an intended area with out disturbing one another. Using ports to help push/pull the mixture when it's needed. The real results will obviously vary from cylinder design to another, and knowing how and what to do is gonna come with experience.

If you plan on playing with the clutch, send it out the left side.

DM will make more power and is better suited for drag.

Arsene Racing?

The fact that guys are booked as far out as a year is actually a good thing. It's an ailing industry that seems to be getting some sort of revival. Guys are seemingly spending more lately. If you have a guy telling you 6 months that typically means they have a solid reputation if people are willing to wait. As far as putting money in to a used motor, if you actually go through everything you can have a better then new motor, but it takes a total package. Not just tossing a used ported top end and domes on a clapped out old bottom end.

You do realize we're a bunch of ball busters here, right? Get a sense of humor. A dark sense of humor. Make some popcorn and enjoy the show.

Sticky

Sd23's

^ AIDS would be a better alternative...

Sell me that aren't Roll bumper on the red one. Pay pal ready.

Holding the clutch in while the bike is in gear and in motion. Especially on deceleration or down hill.

That's pretty damn close to the shape I referenced in another thread for ya.

Whattya trying to do with the motor? A 10mil Super Cub or DM would make it happen easily. What's your budget?

Toss the reeds and find some good used V force or order the new VF4's. Look at getting a head that takes domes and a timing plate.

Taking my old 69mm bore 4mil from pump fuel to race fuel went from 76 hp to about 87 hp. Just domes and timing

Easy 5-10 hp. The results compound the bigger the motor gets. Also, even better gains running oxygenated race fuel.

They can be ported. If you are serious about wanting to do lots of mods in the future, look at other options.

Hit up Roger Allen on FaceBook.

Your Athena's are better then the niche, and that's not saying much. You could have the Athena's worked over, but then you're more money in to it then you would be just getting a set of nice stock cyls ported with all the supporting mods. Set a budget and call a few builders to see if you can come up with a plan.

Not a flat roof. I'll try to remember to snatch a pic next time I'm out there.

Many of the domes in the Cheetahs have a convergant squish band. So even at sixty thou, they still detonate. Yay Trinity.

Screw the choke knob clockwise till it is all the way seated. Mark them so you can keep track of the amount of turns. Back them out 7 turns to 7 1/2 turns. Switch to a CGL needle.