trickedcarbine

Hey, is this the bike ken built with a LRD T-Rex that Arlen built? I might have some pictures he sent me in an e-mail. Also, have ken get back to me, I was trying to get with him on the weld up stocker cylinders he had.

Trans will need to be gone over with an E-Z shift mod or similar cut. Tyson Racing, W-C-R, Fast, etc. will all be able to hook you up. I think Camatv is doing them now as well.

My thoughts exactly. Been talking to Jim at Passion about one of the super servals for my flattrack/ice setup. I think it should be a real solid reliable motor as a 4mil, and a ultra power house on race gas. Radar, you do any flattrack style motors?

Uhh....... Radar, you do know there weren't many CP cylindered banshees out when this thread was made. Jesus NYUK, had to wipe the dust off that one. Just goes to show how far the banshee aftermarket has come.

The motor was almost identical to my signature motor. Just different head, still on race gas. Makes 80 on pods, and makes 80 with an open box with the pro flow kit. That filter in the pro flow kit is big as fuck! It didn't choke me down at all. Maybe...... just maybe it might hold your big 10 mil back a horse or two, but it's better then hitting a puddle and hydro- locking your motor. I speak from experience on that. Pods on a little open ice turned my old crank rods in to "Z" shaped scrap!

Well LMS....... I would definitely say go ahead and try to fab somethin up like a shroud if you do swap to pods. But in my experience, I went from pods to the big ass K&N with a pro flow kit and never felt a difference. Jetted the exact same and dynoed the same. The key is to keep the filter and pre filter as clean as possible and there should be no problem. Facts go as is, Pods are super easy to contend with. The box......... NOT! Just keep the box around for disgusting rides.

"Sleeves are the way to go for anything other then drag racing." NO, NO THEY ARE NOT! My motor has been one long culmination of issues and after sorting it all out, the motor still gets out ran by standard cylinders with solid port work. And Im not talking about drag bikes either. Old tech, Old theory, old school thought. However, I ran a set of weld up cylinders that arlen formerly of LRD set up, and they absolutely killed almost anything short of a properly set up cub. but when you factor in the cost of sleeving($4-500) decking($50) tig & rework transfers/Porting ($750-850) A few years ago that would of been the top dog, but now with the availability of aftermarket cylinders you would be a fool to pay some one to build you proper big bore cylinders.

Honestly, I have hand polished my last 3 sets of pipes, and what a pain in the ass to do and maintain. Especially since I'm a Michigan boy and I ride in the winter. NEVER again! Look up a company called Nitro Plate. They are one of the top ceramic coaters for several sanctioned racing associations. They do black, silver, and a high polish. The last time I got a quote on my rockets they were charging something like 12-14 bucks a foot for two stroke pipes. Not to mention the benifits to running a high temp coating go beyond durability and looks. On a two stroke pipe the power gains can be pretty big, especially on a built motor. I have seen a bike with CPI OOF pick up almost 6 horses with Nitro Plate.

The mod is known by many builders as EZ-Shift Cut. Or the folks over at W-C-R call it their "Pro Mod" transmission. Most of us just hear about removing every other dog off the gears, but a good transmission cut will also have the gear's meshing surface "Back Cut". I am a big supporter of Tyson Racing and W-C-R when it comes to tranny work, but mine will be coming from W-C-R. They not only remove the dogs, back cut the gears, but they also cryo treat and micro-polish the whole thing. They also mod the drum with a bearing and a modded star. All for the convenient price of $265 plus a stock core. I met a guy with a cub built by RDZ, and it wouldnt shift at all. Even though he has a cub in it, the bike is more of a trail/play set up so an over ride was a little much. once the switch was made last season, that thing was like shifting a tremec in a camaro. Perfect every gear!

I have ran and still run Vito's parts on my bike, & I am not entirely happy. Their stuff is average with the exception of a few parts, but none of their parts will put you ahead of the pack (period) I currently run their big bore sleeves in my motor, but it took a helluva lotta work over the last few engine builds to get them to perform. Their kit is honestly not really worth the money and that is by the math/ benifits ratio not my opinion. What you get are sleeves, gaskets, and CAST pistons. Now you need to have them put in, port matched, cylinders decked, and then there is the accompanied head work. Or buy a cool head and domes. Regardless of what big bore sleeve kit you use that will be the required process, wich is quite costly in comparison to the benefits of a $300/400 port job. Power gains are marginal, and not to mention my motor is just a cunt hair better then any site sponsors off the shelf dune ports, and I have spent a shit ton more time and money on mine. If you do go with the big bore, you need to either run a stock head that is rechambered, or an aftermarket (BIG BORE) head from wicked or trinity. Not a Pro design, Vito's, or Noss. Reason being that eventually the motor will go, and it will need to be bored. Once you take standard domes and stretch them past 68mm they become un reliable and they will grenade or fry o rings due to the ultra thin structural material. Thus the need for a head set up for large domes.

Hmm, lectrons..... I love the thought of running alky through lectrons on my bike, but it just wouldn't work out for me in the winter. The power would be nice though. It seems that most people don't even bother with the lectrons for gas. Most guys with them tell me that they would definitely go Keihin or mikuni for if they ever had another gas motor. How do they work on gas compared to say a Mikuni tm/x or Keihin Pwk?

I have been trying to figure out just wich carb to run for the larger more open style tracks I'll be riding on the ice this season. I tested a set of FTZ 35.5 carbs and they were pretty nice, but I need impossible to find mikuni tm34 body/bell gaskets, so they are on the shelf. I was gonna try a set of large Pwk/Strykers till my boss at work brought up the Keihin PWM. He told me It works nice on his CR 250 with an Eric Gorr port job, and runs super crisp bottom to top. Another of his claims is that it is super easy to dial in, and isn't as effected by climate change. Any one here try a set of these on a banshee. I havnt ever heard of them put on a banshee, but I would be willing to try them out if any one has some positive comments on them.

Hey man, glad you made it on to HQ. I was the guy who talked with you for about 2 hours on saturday about that monster. Did you get around to putting it up in detail in the for sale forum? I still really want that chassis, if not that one we will have to get together on building one. Hell, after this sleeve in my cylinders wiggled down this weekend, I just may pony up and be the one to take that whole thing off your hands.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/521-powervalve-banshee-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb63c56f8QQitemZ200625903352QQptZATVs#ht_844wt_959 Easy, just buy this beast! Looks rough, but it truley is a top notch fab job. Engineered for Outlaw rules only though. No it's not a 250r frame, it is sorta like a midget or late model chassis as far as adjustability goes. FYI, the last time I saw a swing arm with eccentric style adjustment, it was on a Factory Harley Davidson flat tracker. If it ain't pretty enough for you, powder and chrome it. I can only imagine the look on guys faces when it starts up and they walk over to the pits scratching their heads trying to figure out what really is under that little ol 250r plastic.

Yeah the chassis is raw steel and the plastics are just replacement junkers, the adjustability set up like midgets or late model racers. Would be fun for oval/ice racing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/521-powervalve-banshee-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2eb63c56f8QQitemZ200625903352QQptZATVs#ht_844wt_959 I came accross this bike on Craigslist and I am really interested in the rolling chassis, but I have a fresh motor combo already. So after contacting the guy and a few people to verify the status of the machine, I asked if he is willing to part the bike out. The answer I got was only if the motor will sell for a decent price. Any one looking for a solid freight train of a motor? Give this thing a peek, because I really want this friggin chassis.

Man! That looks like a killer time. You Clark boys are Fucking nuts! You guys are jumping bike/motor combos that some guys would only dream of straight lining on smooth asphault. Good luck this season

Hahaha! That is exactly what was said. And that was exactly how they were shipped. Fucking nuts! But it will be nice to get rid of those Fuggin pipe clamps

Thanks for the help fellas. Bad news though..... FourPlay no longer has/produces the piece they show on their website. And works had some, but I bought the last set today.

Been trying to locate a set of billit clamps for the resiviors on my works shocks. I wanna get away from the chincy rubber mounts and worm year clamps. I keep finding the Mod-Quad ones through Google, but no one is actually stocking them. Any Ideas?

Thanks for the solid info cam. I would love to run alky, but I ride to much in the winter to wanna deal with the kick and spray, kick and spray ordeal. So, those cookies from the dark side. They aren't made by the same folks who made that really KILLER koolaid for Jones Town are they?

Said it once and I'll say it again. AEROCHARGER! Just Google that. Completely self contained, so space is not a factor and weight savings are extreme. They have even developed their smaller variable vane units to work with two stroke applications. As far as pipe, just call shearer and get ONE made. Single pipes and plenums are tried and proven by Matt Shearer, Dan Hull, and a few other known names. Unless you got full dyno access, stick with the proven combos.

Ok, I have always been a high compression guy when it comes to my banshee, but lately it seems to be a major controversey. Obviously high compression motors are harder on parts and require high dollar fuel or alky to run and neither of that is a problem to me, because you gotta pay big to play big. On that note, well worth it. however I run a weird big bore stock cylinder and it actually destroys domes due to the lack of structural material on the sealing lip area. A major concern for Dave at NOSS. Any way, my builder and I discussed the idea of going with a machined stock head and with my current bore size and stroker crank it is probably the best way to go without giving wicked a call for their big bore head. Upon setting up the head, I mentioned how much I love the way high compression motors run down low. he proceeded to tell me that once you get it in to the revs you actually begin to lose power due to cranking loss. more or less the motor actually begins to fight it self. So rather then my usual 185 psi target I stated maybe we should take it down to about 165 psi to keep it reliable as well as see if it makes a little more horse power with out sacrificing some of that much desired torque. The day I go to pick up the head up he tells me that his math with a .020 base gasket and .020 head gasket puts me at around 140-150 psi and about 50-60 thousandths on the squish. Of course he saw my shitty look that I gave him and told me that it will undoubtedly run better then my last set of domes did, but if I wasnt happy with it he would cut it again for free. Am I nuts for being adamant about high compression and racegas motors? Where is the cut off point at wich the compression can actually cost power, granted the fuel is adequate and tuning is on target? I just don't get how most of the faster machines wether it is a car or bike run race fuel, but apparently it may not be the optimal set up. Is race gas just hype....... or a gimmick? Hypothetically, you take a Serval cylinder that is cranking at 150 psi and it lays down 50 ft. lbs. and 80 h.p. Would that motor make more torque at 175psi, but lose top end h.p.? I have just always been a firm believer in the compression being the way to go if you didn't mind breaking parts and high fuel prices, but now I don't really know what to think. Any one with a little knowledge or experience feel like sheding light on the situation?

Finally got a great deal on a -2 Lonestar swinger, and I have way to much slack in my current steel line. Most of the places I have looked at only have stock length and extended length. Is there anyone that makes a minus 2 line or even makes custom lines for a decent price?

The comment about purity is definitely true. No way the parts could take an annodized finish with out pulling sleeves, and then running the parts through a tumbler first. But even so, they probably wouldn't take it. Why not just powder coat them? Just blast the parts and send them off to someone you can trust will get them done. There are ALOT of powder coating shops now adays, and with the quality and technology involved it, is a simple process that rarely goes wrong if even an average experienced guy does the job. Plus with all the new powders out you can make some killer colors.