trickedcarbine

Feb

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Did these guys ever figure out how to make these safe? Driveshaft companies are building stuff capable of moving way more power and weight with out much issue. Granted it's bigger.

PSA: No, Hipers are not light.

Could a Billit dual piston caliper be lighter then the 250r or new 450stuff or even the popular Brembo?

Nick, if you can come out of hiding and fix your pix, that'd be greeeaaaaaat.

You looking to get work done and buy parts, or just get a bike sorted out? If it's the later I'm in south east Michigan and don't mind helping fella's out.

http://www.blendzall.com

Castor on a good mix and tune creates a light gold film on everything. I dig it, but most of the castor tends to go sticky. I've switched to. Blendzall and fucking love it. Super clean for a Castor.

15/39. If you hunt real hard you may find a 38 rear for the 6 bolt style. Any more top end then that and you'll have to try a 16/41. Can't really see the typical 4mil wanting to really pull a 16 tooth front though but it's probably doable.

Any mods done to the bike?

See if you can chat with Brad Painter. He used to race mostly 500'. Talking dirt right?

It's my thing. Glad you got it sorted out.

That'd probably do just fine. Keep it to a minimum since you don't want it oozing out and also be mindful of the next rebuild. Shit is a pain.

#5 increasing fuel means physically putting a different jet in. Not just playing with the air fuel screw. You may need a richer pilot jet. How cold is it there?

I can't tell you it'll work or not with out seeing the way they're wired. However if you find a diagram of what you have and cross reference it with the Banshee wiring diagrams here in the Technical section. It's possible you may be able to splice your OEM plugs on to the new unit. You can get the pins out using a pic tool to pop the clips holding each pin. In my opinion, you'd be way ahead ordering a new banshee stator.

Why have you not fixed the silencers and figured out the pilot jet? Why do you think lowering the needle will help the lean main jet? Tell your friend he needs a real mechanic if he's really your friend.

He said there IS a leak. I definitely agree it's wise to check before taking stuff apart, but he claims it definitely has a leak and already took it apart.

Definitely makes a difference. What were you previously mixing at? And what oil are you wanting to run at 40:1? Rich/lean terminology applies a couple different ways. Air/Fuel Ratio: It's the ratio of air to fuel that creates a proper burn with out creating so much heat that it melts pistons, but also doesn't have to much fuel so that it create a sloppy cool burn. Think of when you start up a torch and play with the mix valve. That burn you get before you squeeze the lever is what we want in our cylinders. That burn you get when you squeeze the trigger is basically what you get when an air leak occurs. Fuel/Oil Ratio: This applies to your question. If a given motor runs perfect with the current jets in the carbs, changing the amount of oil in the fuel can have an effect on jetting. So say the motor is running perfect. Now take a motor that's been running at 32:1 fuel. Now you add fuel mixed at 40:1. You are actually giving the motor more fuel through the carb jets. Not to big of a deal. Now say you have a motor running perfect at 40:1. Take that motor and feed it 32:1 mix. You would actually be flowing less gas through the jets. Typically the average motor is jetted with a decent margin of error so you may not notice the difference. Do not let people confuse you by calling it oil/fuel ratio when you read a number XX:Y , fuel is the first number in the ratio.

Not needed. Put a lil' dab of blue Loctite on the race before dropping the crank in.

You pulled the jets and blew them out with compressed air? Ran compressed air through the passages? Pulled the choke assembly and made sure it's good and put a fresh tube between the carbs? Didn't mix the float bowls up as they are left and right specific? Increased jets to give more fuel for cold air? You're sure the petcock is flowing fuel to the carbs?

The new 4 stroke bikes all have superior chassis' and the way 4 strokes make power is much different. They tend to have an instant torque feeling so you can make far less gear changes and not need to abuse the clutch to rev it and get it on the pipe like two strokes. They really are easier to ride but don't provide that "Oh Shiiiiit!" factor you get when a two stroke gets on the pipe and revs out.

Pull jugs. Remove head studs. Lap all surfaces. Install head studs. Re assemble top end.

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Hehe. Str8 h8. Sure they're a bunch of hoodlums. Nobody is disputing that. Fact is, those dudes fucking kill it on just about any machine they get on. If you can't agree with that, you are experiencing jealousy and hate to the point where it fucks your ability to see logic.