trickedcarbine

Oh my ATVDRA is dead

Blows me away it's still up. The traffic there is steady but it's just folks thread mining. No new content. Shame though. For a while, that was where the fast fellas congregated and really put out some in depth content but it just came to a halt. Slowly but surely, any positives to the two other sites are trickling in over here.

Brings a tear to my eye when you get all philosophical in less then 2 paragraphs.

there is an aluminum plate that your stator sits on. You can modify the stocker or buy a Billit plate from various manufacturers. By advancing it(clocking it so the pick up strikes the flywheel sooner) you can get the motor to spark earlier which in certain applications gets you some more low end oomph. Just about any banshee has proven to be happier with at least +4 degrees. Just check your plugs. It's about 45-55 bucks for a nice precise plate.

Why no porting? You got all the goods but the good part. Haha jk X2 on what sleeper06 said.

But it takes a whole 7 to 12 minutes to swap jets so it's easier to start closer to a melt down then rich and work down .

Can you expunge a bit on the issues with alky? I'd imagine it has to do with getting the thing spooled with less heat movement?

Maus!!

Umm, it's disgusting. Glad I could help with inspiration. Send him your credit card already.

Yesssss!

Hmm, try making sure the adjuster has a cunt hair more slack. If not go for the lock up. Carbs, if you got nice open stuff, I'd say 33 or 35 PWK's for your build. 33's will keep more grunt down low but if they're like the UP Michigan trails, 35's will do just fine as you have some compression. Could always add timing as well since you have the good fuel.

Oh boy...... Well, I'm not a flotek hater or swinger. I've heard a lot of guys say he's not the king of the strip, but his recreational stuff seems to make a lot of folks very happy. First, look at all your parts upon receiving and before assembly. With a fine tooth comb I might add. It could of helped you see the issue right away. Second, that shop seems to have let you off with a cheap bill as $300 really doesn't get much service in any shop. Especially since it sat for 6 weeks. This is a tell tale sign they were lost or clueless. Maybe both. (What's their name? Should be noted for all) Third, you should of called Denny to get it sorted out before sending it elsewhere and then expecting him to foot the bill. He offered to fix the other cyls, which he would of garunteed as I bet he would of tried to tig them possibly. Depends on room. To boot, he offered a new set of cylinders. Pretty fair. Sucks to deal with, but that was a positive effort. Fourth, who is the new shop? What services and parts are included for $1400? Fifth, this $1400 mistake will make sure you look at everything from now on.

^ sign from god.

What's your definition of trails, what gearing is on the bike and what gears are you usually in? That'll help you get a good reccomendation for carbs. That driveline clutch should hold if you have the HD springs and decent oil. What's there grooving in the basket and hub? It could be that the clutch stack is never really returning to fully compressed. Probably not, but totally possible. Might be time for a lock up clutch though. I just have a hard time believing that motor is walking through that clutch with good springs.

Fucking first world white folk problems. First the EFI wants to shove ya backwards off the seat, then the brakes wanna throw you forward over he bars....

Try a different gauge. For all you know it's fine and have a bogus comp gauge. Positive it didn't have an air leak? No high idle or slow to rev down? Right side smoke more?

The stall from stopped position, is this a consistant thing or typically when first firing the bike for a ride? This could be oil related or excessive grooving on the basket and hub. Power wise, you are about there. Maybe upper 60's- low 70's but that 2/1 is holding a 4 mil back. What clutch? And what springs are in that clutch. Also, when you put the new clutch in, did you adjust the little do hickey behind the basket?

I know of a few here. It's disgusting really..... Whitebread, Domestic Beotch, Zilla guy.

I just don't wanna tell you to hone it and re ring it if it has vertical scoring it could be bad enough to need a bore.

Well, problem is, the jugs were ran till they needed a hone. Another hone could be to much material and in fact you could need a new set of pistons one size up. Was it a machine shop that did the hone? And did they have pistons in hand before?

Talked to a guy with one who I find to be very critical about every detail in life. If he rides it the way he does and is happy with the shifting that's good enough for me. But I had him email me some detailed photos of it torn apart last year and after seeing a few things on par with my WCR trans, that you WILL NOT see on most other Pro mod trannys. That's enough to make me totally confident.

Should definitely be fully seated within a tank of fuel. Is it starting with those compression readings? I'm suspecting your compression gauge may be a little bit off. I'd definitely pop the head and look at the condition of the cylinder walls. If there's still cross hatching I'd just throw new rings at it. If you are sure they are roasted.

Definitely go for the 4mm. If you can afford the aftermarket mono jug stuff I'd say go for it. In the end it makes for stupid power with reliability if done right. Look at pump gas 421 servals. They easily trump the out put of stock cyls on race fuel with lots of timing and compression.

Also the mere fact that a fresh motor needs 4 kicks with choke in warmer weather months is a red flag to lean to me. Possible air leak. Right side smoke more? I get that it smoked, doesn't mean it wasn't lean. But if you're positive I'll just quit yappin and see if any one else has an idea.

Hmm, well it's toast. Highly doubt it'll build that much compression.