trickedcarbine

Free dick sucking for everyone!

^ Is said dick sucking free?

Please refrain from calling people stupid until you can at least handle grammar. Then when you graduate high school and become a big boy, you can then speak as belligerently as you please.

Should have 27.5 pilot, 280ish main. 3/4 turn on the air screw. Needle should be second clip from the bottom possibly middle clip.

No airbox mods, OEM filter?

Ok, you need to crack open the carbs and see what jets are in them. What other mods does the bike have other then the milled head and T5's?

I get where you're going with that. Have you physically had both trans' in your hands?

Yahtzee^

You're "engine builder" is a third rate hack who is just trying to make a buck off you. No that price to rebuild and jet is not fair, and no you do not need 35's on a build like that. It's always funny when you bump in to guys who think instead of putting bigger jets in what you have, they think you just need bigger carbs.

The Blaster is definitely rightfully on there. Many guys here now got their taste for two stroke on a Blaster. Lots of kids out there have got started and will get started on Blasters. It's allowed many guys to get their kids, wife, girlfriend, etc. involved and it will continue to do so. Now, should a grown 6 foot man be cruising around on one? No, not really.

Mine is just Money Grubbing Whore!

Could be a multitude of things. But none the less you have a motor that isn't sealed up. I would start with a simple pressure test on the coolant system. Then do a leak down. The high idle and smoke out the right could be a bad gasket or pto side seal. I'll bet that thing is probably eating coolant and has an air leak.

Meh, just because you get a slight chemical reaction doesn't mean you should go pouring coke all over your shiney stuff. Because it would then be sticky gooey stuff... It's for drinking, not polishing. Try WD-40 if your feeling hard up.

ASV . There is a ton of new stuff out there, but it's not ASV.

^ good luck.

The piston effectively becomes a giant bucket scooping the mixture. Once that thing is full, there is plenty of lube getting slopped on to the wrist pin.

Master Formula FTW!

They usually make short runs just to feed demand. It's possible they are sold out. Give them a call.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/311253858572?nav=SEARCH Ain't evols, but that's only ten seconds searching.

Self tracking autonomous filming. ( these will film you automatically) http://hexoplus.com (drone) http://soloshot.com (Tripod)

fixed.

JEEZUS.... Glws. Some decent stuff.

Do you have a cable or part number?

Don't lower the bike so much that it has limited travel. Keeping it up a little helps with weight transfer. Also it helps to have the front just a touch higher. On scales, get the whole bike neutral on the suspension. Even left to right. Don't worry so much about front to back till after. Once the bike is as close to balanced as possible. Use the sway bar to pre load the front right corner in 10 lb increments. Typically I like the 20-50 range. Depends how sloppy the ice is. Toe in, get creative. You're oval tracking. Set it up so the bike has a slight pull to the left. You can also use air pressure to control that. Make it abrupt as you can comfortably ride. It makes the bike dive and stay pointed and not shove when coming out of the turn. Camber, depends on tires. You are on ice and using a sway bar. The bike really shouldn't be rolling enough to NEED lots of camber. Just a touch out side should do. Try to set it so that your full stud pattern makes contact. It helps to go pro the front tires while you practice turns. That way you can see what the tire does. But if a bike only contacts half it's studs, there is room to improve.

Right on. 3rd ain't shabby, especially with a laundry list of things you can improve.