trickedcarbine

Always back ordered Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Return that one and buy one already done from Racetech. That electro sport will be toast before you even get it out of the box.

Yahtzee!

Killer, new level DIY. Are you modding the stocker or making a new plate?

yessir!

Do Not Pry. You push it in on it self just enough to get it to slide up and out.

Ya, same here. Sounds cool though.

Whoa! What the fuck, I had no idea. So, banned?

Noted, just another fancy tool I better buy.

They would certainly come on just as early and peak early as well, but still make the higher out put of a "inframe drag pipe".

Just think of how many guys have 4mm stock cyl set ups or even servals that they're trying to run on stock carbs. Now you can take them to 28mm and get by with these.

Seemed like he was an ok fella?

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Nice! These are driveline, right?

These look killer. Seems like you guys are getting things sorted out well

OEM or K&S seals HotRods tranny bearing kit Max load bearings and a weld on the crank should suffice.

Hmm , never seen that before. Hopefully you got something sweet inside. Nice score for $300!

Fuck yeah. Good point.

Give the 14 a try if the current 13 makes you feel like you're shifting to much.

Depends on the rest of the set up. If the bike has enough compression and timing to have some low/mid performance and the bike is geared to help the shearers get in to the revs they are fine. But the CPI's would have a little more torque for easier on/off the throttle recovery.

Yes. Once the retainer is off the clutch arm can go up or down. But you also should have the clutch cover off and pressure plate loose. So the rod and ball can move forward while you drop the new arm down in. There will be a thin metal washer/shim over the seal. Pluck the seal and you will see the needle bearing. You can usually use a screwdriver or small punch to implode it a little and pull it up and out. COUNT THE AMOUNT OF NEEDLES IN THE BEARING AND AFTER YOU PULL IT OUT. They tend to fall apart and can easily be retrieved with a magnet. If your arm bent up you may also need a new cable. Also don't forget to adjust the adjuster on the pressure plate.

No shady shit goin on in my dirty lil shed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There is a seal, change that while you're in there. The clutch arm will just drop down in there. The retainer on top holds it in. (Why is there no retainer in the photo?)You should also do the clutch rod and ball. No splitting of the cases needed.

Stupid question, but who is currently balancing a banshee rotating assembly? Would like to have a TDR 10mm done with some 73mm pistons before I assemble it.

Sheeeit, das Wut I be tawkin bout!