trickedcarbine

^ definitely agree with radar.

The 11883 or whatever? Weren't they from driveline as well?

That's a stocker.

New driveline pistons are another stroker option now as well as what Zilla has posted above.

Shouldn't be...

That's called a Quater Life Crisis.

You will always find glittery metallic lookin stuff in your oil. It comes off the plates.

Ha! My first thought is always "ok, where is zilla's chart?" And there it is....

Smh

Titties sir....

^ are you nuts? Stock pilot.... Negative Ghost Rider. OP, pipes are not really overkill. If you're serious, you'll want the soon enough any way. There's a few simple tweaks that you can do to really make them shine. None the less definitely out feeding a stock pilot with the pod filters and shearers. Stick at least a 27.5 pilot in it. Richen the needle to second clip from bottom. And the above posted 300 main is probably damn close.

^ that's probably close. Maybe try 320, 310, and the 300. Definitely stick a 30 pilot in it and see if it will eat it. Run the castor at 32:1. That's what it's meant for. If you wanna be leaner try synthetic stuff IMO. But you say you wanna be on pump fuel... How much was the head milled & what is compression like?

Try it one clip richer. IMO they can be a bit finicky but if you keep them a touch rich they fair very well with only the occasional minor air screw adjustments.

As always check slides aren't backward and carb bowls are left and right specific.

DDWho.....

Hmmm, check the brass bushing in the clutch basket and the one in the kicker gear. Just to be sure. Were they filings or just glittery specs? Anything more is no bueno.

50-55 pilot. Air screw should be about 3/4-1 1/2 turns out. And 152-155 main. The idle circuit is just about always where you have it (7-71/2 turns) What needles are in them?

Describe what your current port job is like and what you want it to be like. Cubs aren't meant for early throttle roll on and all that stuff. If you can find another cheap set of stockers, you can have them ported however you want or do them with a 4mm crank and have a helluva good motor.

Pretty sure the AC Pro Peg is back and down? Are those what you looked at?

Same here. They send directions out like that because they want even the most simple minded folks to be able to set things up with out any technical mumbo jumbo. But if some one has no clue how to do an alignment and they don't read the directions, you get this thread!

^ yeah..... No bueno.

^ so true in just about all drag racing.

Whoa. That's not how they work. They aren't Un screwing a ball joint 2". The arms are pretty close with just the ball joints all the way in. But they need some fine tuning. So they say measure the stocker eye to joint. Add 2" to that measurement and that's where you should have the ball joint on their arms. It's to keep the spindle where it should be. Say the factory arm is say 12 3/8". But when you assemble the new arm and thread the ball joint all the way in you get 14 1/4". You unscrew the ball joint 1/8" and it would put the spindle in a factory position

You use the heims on the frame side to set your castor. Screw them all the way in and only move out one side to get it where it needs to be. Do a quick google on Castor and it'll make sense. Ball joints will be where you set your Camber. -1 or 2 degrees will be plenty. Tie rods are used to set toe in and toe out. All kinds of different preferences on this one. Just give it a good eye ball on where you like it and use a tape measure down the center lines of the tires to check it all.

If you did a leak down but it's leaking at the boost bottle it's not fine. Chuck the boost bottle and replace it with a stock cross over and find some new boots. That leak can roast a motor in definitely.